Question on battery switch

[reellucky18]

I have read through the following article which was helpful, but my case is a little different (at least from my lense).
https://www.classicparker.com/threads/understanding-the-battery-switch.20726/
I have the standard perko 2 battery switch which I will look to change to BEP at some point, however, I wanted to get some feedback on my current setup & if anyone has some ideas on how to solve this.

I have 1 Interstate AGM battery for starting & electronics currently wired into a new fuse panel, but that fuse panel is NOT on the battery switch so all electronics, unless turned off via the switch pannell will stay powered on even with the battery switched to off. This is clearly what I am trying to fix.

I also have 2 lithium batteries for my trolling motor which are currently both on pole 1 & pole 2. What I am wondering is since those two trolling motor batteries are on a 24v system, can I move the two cables for those batteries to pole #2 and add a battery cable from pole 1 going to my fuse panel? Will that cause any damage to any system on the boat (batteries, chargers, ignition, etc. etc.?
Finally, if that will all work just fine & dandy, what position should I run the switch in knowing I'll need to power my electronics and trolling motor?

OR can I simply add the battery cable from the 1&2 pole to the fuse panel & that will cover what I need?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[jamesd156]

do not do that. not sure what u got going on but dont mix 24v system with 12v system

 

[pelagic2530]

So you have a bit going on here, probably need some more information to truly help you out.

First things first, though. Do NOT tie anything in to the trolling motor batteries. They should essentially be a completely independent system solely for the TM.

Back to your current setup:
-Why is your new fuse panel not connected to your battery switch? Where does it get its power from?
-What purpose does the “new” fuse panel serve, as opposed to the one that was originally installed? Is the original panel still in place?
-What batteries do you have on board other than the TM batteries? How are they connected to the battery switch?

Need some more details, then we can probably help you out.

 

[reellucky18]

So I added some pictures to help tell this story.

Pic 4719 was the original wiring
4720 is my almost latest (that SonicHub is no longer there (that's another story))
4736 is my switch with a breaker that goes to??
4737 is a pic of my batteries. The Interstate is the cranking/house battery, the other two Ionics are the lithiums just for the trolling motor
4738 is my fuse panel. This boat did NOT have a fuse panel originally, just the rocker/switch panel along with a + bus bar and a - bus bar and A BUNCH of in-line fuses. I wanted to clean this up by adding a fuse panel.
4739 is a mystery of wires and where they go & what they do... i have no idea.

so i moved the original + and - wires from the bus bars to the fuse panel. I just got back in from testing this and the fuse panel has ~13v no matter what the switch position is in.

What I do find odd is there are two 4 awg wires going into the switch (no including the one going to the breaker). With only one battery needed for starting & powering my electronics, I am not sure what this other wire might have been used for or if it is still needed.

Thoughts?

 

[reellucky18]

Also, I made a mistake in my first post. My trolling motor batteries are NOT connected to the switch. But as you can see there are multiple wires coming into that switch that I am not sure what they are (besides the one 4 awg wire that I can trace directly back to the Interstate battery.

 

[reellucky18]

So I think i just solved this problem.

Wire on #1 pole is straight to battery
Wire on #2 pole is to engine (my best guess since when I took that wire off the switch & turned the key, I had no power to my gauges. add wire back & had power back to gauges).

I added a new 4 awg wire to the Both section on the switch & took that wire to my fuse panel. I took the power wire I had on my fuse panel (originally from the positive bus block) and moved it back to the positive bus block.

I now have full power to my switches & power controlled via switch to my fuse panel.

Mission accomplished. Now time to get my nav lights in and straighten up all my wiring mess then put her in & see what she catches.