Racor 3213 vs OEM Yamaha fuel water separator

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Robert Cibran

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I have read thru out this forum how everyone has replaced their OEM Yamaha fuel water separator with the Racor 3213,I have done some research concerning both separators but still have my doubts in replacing the OEM Yamaha with the Racor,the Racor is rated at 10 Micron "60 GPH",the Yamaha is rated at 10 microns 90 GPH.

What is the differance between 60 GPH vs 90 GPH ?? does this mean that the Racor will filter less amount of fuel ??

On Parker's website,they recomneded to use 10 micron 90 GPH.

I know there are many out there using the racor with no problems in fuel restrictions,but something has to be different when comparing 60 GPH vs 90 GPH.

Please help.

Robert Cibran
[email protected]
 
Robert Cibran":1nyu2ymg said:
What is the differance between 60 GPH vs 90 GPH ?? does this mean that the Racor will filter less amount of fuel ??
On Parker's website,they recomneded to use 10 micron 90 GPH.


"Racor will filter less fuel?" That's the way I understand it.

If I ever have trouble with my Yamaha, I'd rather go to them with a handfull of "Yamaha receipts" as opposed to some Racor receipts. I believe Yamaha was first in developing the 10 micron filter.
 
FishFactory,

Thats exactly the way I feel,to me 90 GPH vs 60 GPH sounds like more fuel is being filtered with the OEM.

eventhough I have already bought but not installed the racor,I will pass along to friend and stick with the OEM.

thanks.
Robert
 
I have heard it said (but not confirmed), that the 'baby blue' Yamaha filters are made by Racor to Yamaha specifications.
The biggest difference that I see is that the Racors are drain-able without removing them, while the Yamaha's have to be removed to be drained.

Not a big deal to me, but it might be for some folks.

Image-5C4B263D4F5411DB.jpg-thumb_269_202.jpg
 
Megabyte,

Thats exactly the same filter I have,its about $16.00 in my part of town and since thats cheap,its better just to dump it every 30 hours and replace with new one.

I guess I will stick to the OEM which looks to filter more fuel.

thanks !!!!

Robert
[email protected]
 
I spent a good amount of time discussing this topic with a Yamaha rep at the NY boat show. I don't recall all the details of the conversation but he was very convincing that I shouldn't be considering anything other than the OEM 10 micron filter for my '06 F250.
 
If your motor is burning, tops, 25 GPH, does it matter that the filter will handle 90 GPH as opposed to 60GPH? :?:
Not asking to be a wise aleck, just want to know. :?
 
Your engine will never pump 90gph or even 60gph, so it is not an issue. The Yamaha will NOT filter more than the Racor, it simply can pass more fuel if needed. (again your will never need that kind of flow)

I think the Racor wins hands down. Looking at the clear bowl at the bottom of the Racor to check for water is a HUGE advantage.
 
I agree, right now I have Yamaha blue filters on the boat because they came with it but first job is to change them out with Racors. As John said being able to drain and see is way safer than changing out a filter on the water, been there done that no fun.

Racor is tops in the business, we have used them for the 671-ti's in the diesel boat for years and the only problems we had were from neglect of changing them when we first took delivery of the boat twenty years ago.

Just my opinion but it seems Yamaha as well as other outboard manufactures like you to keep buying their products based on faith. And we know what happens when you go on faith.
 
???

My clear-bottom Racors are advertised at 10 micron. Both motors running at WOT only consume about 20 gph (10 gph each). So those Racors have 50 gph to spare.

I vote for the clear bottoms with the drain.
 
Racor has been top dog for many years and earns its spot with quality.

Seems to me 10 microns is 10 microns. If one wanted to run more gallons through the filter than its rated capacity, be easy to just buy the next filter up in size (Yam or Racor). Maybe the amount of filtering element in each gives it its gallonage rating.

Real trick as I understand it is to have the fuel pass through the filtering elements in a manner that does not lead to clogging and catches the most crud before slowing down the flow. It involves passing the fuel through the element so it is exposed to the filtering element in a predictable flow pattern and so none of the filter material is released.

Best test of a filter is to tear it apart and see the type and amount of filter material. Be interesting to see if the two have the same filter material. I have an old Yam I kept so will have to wait till time to change my Racor to cut them open side by side. I strongly suspect both are good quality.

If I was in a sweat situation and my engine died, I like the option of just glancing (or testing) at the clear plastic bottom of the Racor and if it is not full of water or crud or empty, then I know the problem is probably elsewhere.

I continue to stake my engines on Racor and have for many years (diesel or gas). Just wish this one had a vacuum gage on it to tell when to replace it (or a red line button), but probably easy to retrofit.

I do use a telescoping mirror to check the Racor plastic bottom so I do not have to hang down in the compartment to see it. Keep the mirror stored by a battery for quick access.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete
 
Hi guys
thanks for all your replies and duly noted that all of you feel the Racor is supirior to the Big Blue filter

please read below what Andy said of both filters,he is with ship yard island,I found him thru the net.


Filtering quality between the two is no different. They are both rated at 10
micron particulate size. The advantage (I feel) with the Racor you can
actually see the fuel and if there is any water in the system without having
to remove the filter and checking like you would with the Yamaha filter.
Part of your pre-casting off checks would be to visually check the Racor for
water. With the Yamaha.........

The GPH is the max flow of fuel that can pass through the filter in one
hour. The Racor is 60 gallons and the Yamaha is 90. You engine at WOT does
not burn anymore then say 20gph. Both filters exceed that capacity by quite
a bit. That being said..........the filters rating drops from the day it is
put in since it starts to filter fuel. That drop all depends on how much
crap is the your fuel to begin with. If you are clogging a 60gph filter the
90 will last longer before it clogs basically. On a newer boat......that
probably is not a problem.
 
I use this one http://www.mallorymarine.com/ProductDet ... arch=37801

"Mallory Marine" 10 micron filters up to 114 GPH with the 3/8” inlet bracket. Reasonably priced at 9. bucks.

I know more than my share of gear heads who trust Mallory to filter their 200 thousand-dollar racing engines.

Works for me.
 
JC,

Does that Mallory filter you are using spin right on to the OEM Yamaha head ?? or did you have to change to a complete new rig ??

Robert
 
Robert Cibran":l6hr4bse said:
Does that Mallory filter you are using spin right on to the OEM Yamaha head ?? or did you have to change to a complete new rig ??


It spins onto the factory bracket installed by Parker. Mallory makes this filter with two different thread sizes. The 37801 fit my OEM bracket perfectly.
 
The Racor filter with the plastic bowl used below decks is a FIRE HAZARD. The plastic bowl is not rated for fire.

It is not supposed to be used in enclosed spaces such as an engine compartment or in this case an unventilated bilge that has no blower, and is also located in the proximity of batteries and other electrical equipment that could be the likely source of an onboard fire.

If something in the bilge arcs and catches fire, the OEM filter is designed maintain its integrity, whereas the plastic bowl of the Racor will readily melt and likely cause your vessel to explode.

They are undoubtedly cool to look at, and convenient to drain, but at what cost/risk?
 
GrouperJim,

You are 100% correct,that style Racor is for above deck,the below deck style is 660-RAC-01 with the element #S3232 which the whole unit is made of steel including the bowl and is 10 micron/90 GPH rating and it is recomended for under deck mounting.

You can probably change the plastic bowl on 3213 to steel,don't know for sure ???

Robert
 
The Racor filter with the plastic bowl used below decks is a FIRE HAZARD. The plastic bowl is not rated for fire.

FOR DISCUSSION PURPOSES

Is it more af a fire hazard than changing out a clogged filter on the water? On my 2530 where the filters are it is not an enclosed space, ther is ventilation. Granted vapors fall into the bilge because they are hevier than air but what do you guys think the pros and cons are of each design? If the fire is in such an area that the bowls will melt I think you are at abondon ship time any way, No? Opinions?

You can probably change the plastic bowl on 3213 to steel,don't know for sure ???

Yes you can. I looked into it at one time, I think you needed to add a petcock to drain it but you can no longer do the qquick visual check.
 

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