SOUTHWINS
Well-known member
looking to put a washdown on a 2120 what type of strainer and seacock should use? allso what type of sealer on the hull
thanks
thanks
raw water washdown
- Thread starter SOUTHWINS
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Bryan 2530
Well-known member
This on the bottom with 5200 or 4200.
Just clean the sealer better than the one in the picture, I stole the pic from google images. Use acetone.
Just clean the sealer better than the one in the picture, I stole the pic from google images. Use acetone.
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
FWIW the factory OEM installation is the brone scoop pickup as shown, connected to a bronze seacock. Do a search for 'Megabyte' and 'bilge' in the archives, as Capt Kev's bilge is soooooooooooooooooo clean you can easily see the install.
FWIW, you could use a pickup and seacock made of Marlon as an alternative and I would only use 5200 on anything below the waterline. It is not half as difficult to remove, if ever needed, as people think it is. I also leave whatever bead of goop weeps out as a good seal, only cleaning up larger gaffs ... besides, it's on the bottom
!
One other point, NEVER tighten up any item or fastener to "full strength or torque" whenever using any sealant. Tighten to 80% or so and let the sealant partially setup, then tighten to form a good seal. IMHO, as far as bedded hardware goes, most people and factories tighten them too hard and too soon ... causing a 'dry' seal as a result, as they forced out all of the sealant. Just my observations anyway.
FWIW, you could use a pickup and seacock made of Marlon as an alternative and I would only use 5200 on anything below the waterline. It is not half as difficult to remove, if ever needed, as people think it is. I also leave whatever bead of goop weeps out as a good seal, only cleaning up larger gaffs ... besides, it's on the bottom
!One other point, NEVER tighten up any item or fastener to "full strength or torque" whenever using any sealant. Tighten to 80% or so and let the sealant partially setup, then tighten to form a good seal. IMHO, as far as bedded hardware goes, most people and factories tighten them too hard and too soon ... causing a 'dry' seal as a result, as they forced out all of the sealant. Just my observations anyway.
Don't have a shot of the underside 'scoop' (the opening of which should face the transom),
but this is what the topside OEM valve assembly looks like.
Here is where the valve assembly is located in relation to all of the other items in the bilge.
Notice that the valve is in the 'off' position when the pump is not being used.
Safety first...
If you were to leave that valve open and experience a broken hose... it could ruin your whole day. :wink:
but this is what the topside OEM valve assembly looks like.
Here is where the valve assembly is located in relation to all of the other items in the bilge.
Notice that the valve is in the 'off' position when the pump is not being used.
Safety first...
If you were to leave that valve open and experience a broken hose... it could ruin your whole day. :wink:
MaxOut
Well-known member
Megabyte":11nha36x said:Don't have a shot of the underside 'scoop' (the opening of which should face the transom),
but this is what the topside OEM valve assembly looks like.
Here is where the valve assembly is located in relation to all of the other items in the bilge.
Notice that the valve is in the 'off' position when the pump is not being used.
Safety first...
If you were to leave that valve open and experience a broken hose... it could ruin your whole day. :wink:
Hey where did you get that stainless filter head?? I Like!!
MaxOut":2m38ky0j said:
I got it from Andy Munao at Shipyard Island Marine.
http://www.shipyardisland.com/
