Re-painting entire top surface of Armstrong bracket?

[big_tuna]

Did a quick search but could only find folks who touched up their armstrong bracket. I think mine needs to be completely re-done!!! (at least the top side) I don't know if PO was dropping scuba tanks on the bracket or the zinc was missing for a while, but it looks pretty bad. Pics are just one side, the other side is similar. The underside looks okay surprisingly so it makes me think scuba tanks started the problem.

I would sand the surface, use an aluminum etching primer, then repaint.

So I am wondering if I should tackle this myself or pay someone else to do it???

I store the boat in a yard over the winter. Seems like it could be a fun project, but I fear since I will be brush painting it outdoors it could come out looking "unprofessional". Boat is a 2005 in nice condition. I do all the other work on my boat myself so I am mechanically inclined....

Thanks in advance for any advice,

 

[got_em_on]

I awl gripped the deck, non skid and inside of hull on 2 of our parkers. I did have alot of experience using it so was comfortable with it and it came out great. Prep is key and other than actual application the external variables will impact final product. This includes obvious things like temperature, dampness(will dew wind up on it over the evening), rain, wind etc. But also those unforeseen factors like- is the guy next to you sanding his bottom the day before-that day or day after, polishing his boat or did a truck just go by and stir up dust.

The yard may be able to put it in a heated building so they can do it any time during your winter lay up, control all those factors and be familiar with the product application. It may cost more, but your not doing it every year and will probably turn out well then in the spring you just go fishing.

If you do it and are not familar with the product/application there is a cost and learning curve to that as well. You have the aluminum so need the primer and then the awlgrip(in our case)-so you have parts 1 and 2 then the reducer, brushes, etc. The product is not cheap and if you have to sand a coat off due to learning curve that equals dollars. Then you have to pick the time to do it-by us was the spring and needed to watch weather with each coat.

The bracket is aluminum which is not as forgiving to paint as fiberglass and it is consistently hit with salt water which will find a way to corrode through the slightest imperfection. Also has 2 sides(assuming you plan on doing top and bottom) and alot of nooks and crannies that cannot be left with any corrosion prior to you repainting.

Both our boats are 2005-if you have a yard that you trust I would get a quote before jumping into the project and balance that against a real supply list based on what you would buy along with how much time you have to dedicate to the project and at what time of year. The paint job on our brackets lasted 16 years and within reason I wouldn't mind paying a pro to do it since i would never be doing it again.

 

[big_tuna]

okay, I wasn't able to find a yard very easily that wanted to sandblast it and repaint.

So how about this....what if I just to do a light sand to get any loose paint off and then roll on an epoxy primer?

 

[IcyAtlantic]

okay, I wasn't able to find a yard very easily that wanted to sandblast it and repaint.

So how about this....what if I just to do a light sand to get any loose paint off and then roll on an epoxy primer?

Probably not the best for long term durability. The stuff that hasn't flaked yet..is on its way. ( even after you scuff it up with some sanding). Getting paint to stick on a constantly wet aluminum surface is a daunting premise that will unfortunately require an investment in proper preparation.

 

[warthog5]

Getting it to stick is Not hard.....Whats hard is the proper prep. It needs to be disassembled. Easy to say.....NOT easy to do. Blasted..Zic Cromate primed ,.Epoxy High build Primed.... I put drain holes in mine where the top bolt plat bolts to the engine....You know the spot...top of the swim platform under the engine mount, where dirt always collects. A new, Larger Armstrong piehole was installed. This made life easier to access the inside. The original was the cover that was screwed down. [Stainless Marine Bracket]
The drainholes I mentioned can be seen in the close up with the new piehole cover....Drill and shamford in the corners of the upright. A few welds were fixed at the same time that had begun to crack. Paint was Awlgrip on this. It was sprayed....Nonskid was rolled and added at a half rate. It calls for 1pt nonskid to 1 qt.....I use Restolume at a rate of 1/2pt to 1 qt.
I have since stopped using Awalgrip and use Tamco's Duraflint II.

 

[GoodChance]

I re-painted the bracket on my 23 DVCC.

As you note, the powder-coat has a tendency to flake off.

I did not remove the motor and did not remove the bracket from the boat. I did sand with a 5" DA sander starting with 80 grit, then 120 and finally 220. I did not remove all the power-coating ...... jut the loose stuff and scuffed-up the rest. Cleaned with acetone. Then painted with the Awlgrip 545 primer and then the topcoat. I used the Awlgrip nonskid but the Rustoleum brand works too.

FWIW - I rolled/tipped my application. I did not spray

 

[big_tuna]

I re-painted the bracket on my 23 DVCC.

As you note, the powder-coat has a tendency to flake off.

I did not remove the motor and did not remove the bracket from the boat. I did sand with a 5" DA sander starting with 80 grit, then 120 and finally 220. I did not remove all the power-coating ...... jut the loose stuff and scuffed-up the rest. Cleaned with acetone. Then painted with the Awlgrip 545 primer and then the topcoat. I used the Awlgrip nonskid but the Rustoleum brand works too.

FWIW - I rolled/tipped my application. I did not spray

Thanks for posting ,I'm leaning towards this

 

[warthog5]

I used the Awlgrip nonskid

It should be noted that the Awlgrip nonskid is available in Course = Rocks.....Medium = still to course and Fine.

I use the Rustolume brand cause it's easy to get at Lowes.

 

[big_tuna]

What color is my 2005 2310? I read awlgrip oyster white is a good match?

 

[GoodChance]

I used AwlGrip in the color Oyster White and was very happy with the match

 

[sailmaster]

Self Etching primer is the important thing on to clean metal

 

[A^4]

I used AwlGrip in the color Oyster White and was very happy with the match

Any suggestions on what level of grit on the non skid works the best? Extra course is even an option. Maybe fine or medium for the deck?, but something heavier on that swim platform. I'm up on my roof doing some significant repair work...

 

[big_tuna]

I read that a 50/50 mix of fine and course awlgrip is good. But I'm doing the rustoleum nonskid because its $10 at lowes and not $135. Plus its just the bracket, I don't really care too much.

 

[GoodChance]

Any suggestions on what level of grit on the non skid works the best? Extra course is even an option. Maybe fine or medium for the deck?, but something heavier on that swim platform. I'm up on my roof doing some significant repair work...

AwlGrip's Course non-skid is pretty industrial. If you ever put bare skin on AwlGrip course, then you'll likely need a blood transfusion from the loss.

I've used AwlGrip fine. I like it. But I have also used Rustoleum's non-skid. It's a very acceptable alternative.

 

[big_tuna]

I finished putting the primer on. 3 coats. Anyone think it's a terrible idea to leave it as is for the summer and top coat it next winter? I'm running out of time before the boat has to be back in the water and i have other projects to finish

 

[Bodick93]

Finish while momentum is high, already masked, primer is clean. JMO.

 

[GoodChance]

There's no problem leaving just the AwlGrip 545 primer exposed until next year and after this fishing season is over.

There is more than 1 charter boat in North Carolina who intended to Awlgrip the entire boat but got to the primer stage and was "happy-enough" with the look of just 545 primer.

Do be aware that 545 gets pretty hard after 30 days and will be more difficult to sand with 220 or 320 grit. With this in mind, you may want to go ahead and sand it now .... it will only take 30-60 minutes

 

[Bigbri]

I re-painted the bracket on my 23 DVCC.

As you note, the powder-coat has a tendency to flake off.

I did not remove the motor and did not remove the bracket from the boat. I did sand with a 5" DA sander starting with 80 grit, then 120 and finally 220. I did not remove all the power-coating ...... jut the loose stuff and scuffed-up the rest. Cleaned with acetone. Then painted with the Awlgrip 545 primer and then the topcoat. I used the Awlgrip nonskid but the Rustoleum brand works too.

FWIW - I rolled/tipped my application. I did not spray

I’m about to do the same exact thing you did here. Wondering how it held up . Also did you have to use the high build primer ?

 

[big_tuna]

My primer has held up, looks great!