Rebuilt/refurbished Seastar Helms?

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Seaway85

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Unfortunately I've lost nearly all steering control on my 2000 23DVCC since splashing it this season. I bled and filled the system twice - once as recommended by lots of videos online with the clear tube bridge between the ports on either side of the steering cylinder, and a second time using Seastar's recommended method by emptying/purging each side individually into a waste container. Both methods obviously with the bottle of fluid feeding into the helm the whole time. Both times brought the steering to near 100%, but then it deteriorated.

I can't see fluid leaking from the helm or cylinder, so I'm guessing it's coming from one of the lines under the deck (I am colorblind and that complicates the issue of tracking down a leak of red fluid). The helm body and connections behind the dash are very corroded, so even if it's not the issue I'd like to replace it if I'm going to be working on the steering anyway.

Has anyone had a good experience purchasing a rebuilt/refurbished helm pump? I've seen a few dealers online and if anyone can vouch for one it's a tempting option to save $300-400 from new.

Also, I'd take any advice on replacing the hydraulic steering lines. It seems as simple as snaking the new ones with the old, but we all know it's never that simple...

Thanks!
 
If it has the same warranty I'd try a rebuilt. Once you spend a couple frustrating hours changing the thing out for the first time, the next time is much easier.

If it doesn't have the same warranty then I'd probably avoid it. The helms and cylinders seem like they either work for years or they break down with an issue pretty quick.

Replacing old lines is never a bad idea. And I understand the inclination to replace parts due to the corrosion but you might regret shelling out the money for a helm and then realize it's actually the cylinder causing the issue. A little more trouble shooting might be worth it.
 
When having problems like that.... I upgrade from Seastar to Uflex. You can mix them.
 
I appreciate the feedback!

Unfortunately, replacing the helm went from a "nice to do" to a likely "need to do".

The next time I was at the boat I was turning the wheel back and forth aimlessly a few times when I lost ALL connection to the motor. The wheel moves freely without any engine movement. I tested whether the helm would pull in any additional fluid and it didn't at all, so I figured it had to be a bad helm. I'm guessing the check valves failed?

I also had someone help me look at the splashwell and in the bilge to make sure I wasn't missing the red color from a leak. We still couldn't find anything.

Anyway. I did a little bit of reading into Seastar vs. Uflex and found mixed opinions. @warthog5 I trust your experienced input, and might move to Uflex when the other parts need replacing in the future, but ordering a new (not refurbished) Seastar helm felt the quickest way forward. The sticker was about 90% worn off of the old helm, so I couldn't tell what cu. in. capacity it was. I went with the capacity that made the most sense to me based on turns required for lock to lock.

For those that don't know, most single Seastar cylinders are 8.3 cu in of volume, and the number of turns of the helm required to move the engine from port lock to starboard lock is simply 8.3 / the cu in capacity of the helm.

The new helm's arriving today and hopefully there will be a break in the rain in the next week for me to get the thing installed ASAP. It seems like it should be an easy swap 🤞. The stripers are calling...
 
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