Porkchunker
Well-known member
As promised here is the procedure to remove a Parker OEM installed windlass and install the replacement.
At first I thought that it was sealed down with 3M 5200, but, thankfully, that turned out not to be true.
First I asked both Parker Marine and Tri-State how to break the bond of the sealant that held down the OEM installed Lewmar Horizon 500 windlass. Erich at Parker said to use oak wedges. Harvey at Tri-State said to use plastic wedges. Well...I couldn't find any plastic wedges, but oak wedges were easy to make.
After assembling the tools and removing the nuts on the 6" long SS all-thread studs, I started the process with the oak wedge. By it self, the oak wouldn't budge the windlass. So...I tried pounding a putty knife between the windlass and the bowsprit. That worked. The adhesive was softer than I had originally thought.
By working the putty knife under a significant chunk of the windlass, I was able to get some leverage with the oak wedges. I used first one, then two on the back, and one on the front. Between the three of them, I was able to break the windlass free.
After cleaning up the surface and the holes for the all-thread studs and the wires, I applied a liberal amount of 3M-4000 sealant and bedded the new windlass. I tightened the nuts on the studs very lightly, and tomorrow will go back down and torque them down and finish the wiring.
Here are the pics of the process:
At first I thought that it was sealed down with 3M 5200, but, thankfully, that turned out not to be true.
First I asked both Parker Marine and Tri-State how to break the bond of the sealant that held down the OEM installed Lewmar Horizon 500 windlass. Erich at Parker said to use oak wedges. Harvey at Tri-State said to use plastic wedges. Well...I couldn't find any plastic wedges, but oak wedges were easy to make.
After assembling the tools and removing the nuts on the 6" long SS all-thread studs, I started the process with the oak wedge. By it self, the oak wouldn't budge the windlass. So...I tried pounding a putty knife between the windlass and the bowsprit. That worked. The adhesive was softer than I had originally thought.
By working the putty knife under a significant chunk of the windlass, I was able to get some leverage with the oak wedges. I used first one, then two on the back, and one on the front. Between the three of them, I was able to break the windlass free.
After cleaning up the surface and the holes for the all-thread studs and the wires, I applied a liberal amount of 3M-4000 sealant and bedded the new windlass. I tightened the nuts on the studs very lightly, and tomorrow will go back down and torque them down and finish the wiring.
Here are the pics of the process:
