Removing fridge from 2530 galley package

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Bryan 2530

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I need to pull out the fridge from my 2530 so I can service some stuff behind it and paint some of the areas of the fridge that have some rust on them.

Anyone have tips on doing this before I start? It appears to be fastened by the front. I haven't started pulling it apart yet.

Thanks guys.
 
Bryan, I haven't, on a '96.

We've painted the metal trim in place a couple years ago, and replaced the black faceplate on the door.

On my ssetup the sove above scews out to see access to the back too.

Dana
 
Easier than I expected. Four screws in the front then pull the unit forward. Unplug from AC power and clip the DC cable.

Connections were just taped from the factory. :evil: What's up with that.
 
Bryan, mine from '96 is DC only. I have a Norcold Tek II, DC351D.

You can see the metal trim on my version and one of the retaining screws in the photo. Front of fridge in othe photo.

I've seen my wiring and not the termination so I don't know on an older version how they did them.

Dana
 

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What is the story with the AC plug above the refrigerator. Is this from the factory or did you put it in yourself. Do you have an inverter? If so is there a link to the project? Greatly appreciated!!!
Nice rig.
 
Freespool, the 110V outlet over the fridge was added when I added shorepower. I had a battery charger added and the outlet.

I do not have a built in inverter. I did set up a cigarette lighter adapter to plug in a portable low wattage voltage inverter for when I was not on shore power to get some 110V power.

I have pictures spread around of the shorepower panel, battery charger.

I can re-attach some pics some time.

Dana
 
Thanks, Does your inverter happen to be able to power a small microwave?
 
Freespool, my voltage inverter will not power a microwave. You can get them though, and you would want to set up the 12V supply to the inverter on a good size wire line and fuse or breaker. Mine is small at 350 watts, though you can buy 1,000 or 1,500 watts at many stores.

There are microwaves under 1,000 watts. At 1,000 watts may be 8 amp continuous current at 125V. If 500 watts, 4 amp.

If 1,000 watts and 8 amps, then almost 85 amps at 12V. Need good battery supply and good wires.
 
If you have a small microwave already, is easy to get a voltage inverter and be in business.

If you do not already have a microwave, there are 12V models and you could skip the inverter. You lose 5 to 15% efficiency with most inverters. Here is one 12 V model, 600 watts. http://www.power-huntstore.com/Portable ... np-410.htm

Lower cost inverters are modified sine wave. They are simpler to build, more inefficient but OK on a microwave. Pure sine wave inverters are needed for more delicate electronics and are better if powering electric motors as some examples.
 
Here are some again on the shorepower and so forth.

Here is the 120 V panel in the vee. Couple breakers for battery charger, 110V outlet, some spares. Inside the panel, have a galvanic isolator on the shorepower infeed.

Have a battery charger, twin 20 amp output. Is under the galley sink behind the fridge.

One picture, not too close up, shows the shorepower outlet on the starboard side to get into the electric panel in the vee.

Let me know if you have questions Freespool.
 

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What brand of charger did you buy? Do you find 20 amp to be big enough? I have concerns that I will want a larger charger. I will be keeping the boat in a storage yard with no power. I can see bringing the boat home th cream and charge after fishing. I have to have it back to the yard before it loses at 5.
 
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