Replacing cabin interior domelight

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I'm not sure...I did not need to replace my light fixtures ....I have 3.

But I did take a amp draw reading with the incodecent? bulbs in them. They drew 3amps..[1amp each]

Then I replaced them with LED's. All 3 together drew 1 amp. :)
 
Brent, I replace mine with a plastic one that is all LED. I didn’t want to revisit the corrosion issue and of course, wanted to reduce amp draw as Wart mentioned. I think I’ve had it about 3 years now and it still looks great and works perfectly. I only have a pic of it lit with the blue lights but it also has white lights as it’s a 2 position/function light. The pics from the manufacture show it with the white light for reference. When on white, it’s very bright, I feel that it’s better brightness than the original. It’s a little smaller diameter than the original light so I had to clean the head liner good to get rid of the rust ring from the original light. Good luck with your search.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... 1382/3177/
 

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There are replacement LED dome lamps out there with a 2 position switch.
One side of the switch is white light, the other side is red (for (nighttime).
 
Megabyte":1lljmdyv said:
There are replacement LED dome lamps out there with a 2 position switch.
One side of the switch is white light, the other side is red (for (nighttime).

My light is only offered in the blue night light and not in red, this is a draw back for sure if you run at night a lot and if your other lights are rigged in red. My deck lights and underwater lights are in blue so hanging out at the Docks, it all looks great. For actual practical purposes though operating at night, red would be better. I’m surprised the manufacture doesn’t offer it both ways. I don’t go out much at night currently so it’s working for me. If I am running at night, I like to turn down all my gauges and any other lights as low as I can. If I have them turned on I’m only doing it foot long enough to see what I need or I’m anchored so being blue isn’t that bad.
 
mheltunen":2qyb60zz said:
I have 4 lights in my cockpit that need attention as well. The dual white/red led lights are the way to go IMO if you operate at night at all.

Not led but a reasonable price on a OEM equivalent light: https://www.sailorsams.com/product.asp? ... gIs3PD_BwE

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would not buy any new light that isn’t a LED purpose built. I did just swap out the deck step light bulbs with LED bulbs and didn’t replace the light units, but I will eventually replace them with an LED housing light. For operating in a salt water/air environment, loosing that source of corrosion of an incondesant bulb connection and the wire connections is a big plus. I’ve switch out my nav and all round light units with LED units and no more taking apart the housing to clean the bulb connection to get the light working when your trying to get out on the water. Stick with all new LED’s and you will only do it once and for get it. Just my 2 cents. Obviously, heat shrink EVERY connection you do on 12V on a boat, even if it’s behind the dash.
 
eyedoc":2i7k4euf said:
I had this saved for future use in my 'boat' file. Hopefully this will help.

https://store.marinebeam.com/6-5-led-do ... onal-brass
Thamks all. I bought the same one 5” lens and 6” overall diameter and will order LED bulbs once I determined the correct bulbs. Tomorrow, we are replacing cockpit deck lights with sealed LED units
 
shawnee83":16uzwe6o said:
mheltunen":16uzwe6o said:
I have 4 lights in my cockpit that need attention as well. The dual white/red led lights are the way to go IMO if you operate at night at all.

Not led but a reasonable price on a OEM equivalent light: https://www.sailorsams.com/product.asp? ... gIs3PD_BwE

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would not buy any new light that isn’t a LED purpose built. I did just swap out the deck step light bulbs with LED bulbs and didn’t replace the light units, but I will eventually replace them with an LED housing light. For operating in a salt water/air environment, loosing that source of corrosion of an incondesant bulb connection and the wire connections is a big plus. I’ve switch out my nav and all round light units with LED units and no more taking apart the housing to clean the bulb connection to get the light working when your trying to get out on the water. Stick with all new LED’s and you will only do it once and for get it. Just my 2 cents. Obviously, heat shrink EVERY connection you do on 12V on a boat, even if it’s behind the dash.


Diaelectric Grease is your friend in the light sockets.

22058.jpg
 
I replaced both of mine with those marinco led's last season. It has the same footprint as the factory lights. Also did the spreader lights as I do a couple of trips a year overnight tuna chunking. The spreaders I used lumitec cabrara's
 
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