Replacing roof core on early 90s 25'

[aalbert]

Pretty soon the weather will become a little more comfortable here in S. Florida, and so fiberglass work will become a reality again.

My buddy's boat has several areas that we will be attacking - floor and roof. For the floor we plan on using 3/4" 20# Penske/Coosa, and expect that to be straight forward... For the roof however, can anybody comment on what thickness the original wood material is? We plan on separating the top and bottom halves of the roof, with it still attached to the hull (has anybody done this) - hopefully it is just a big shell with no additional interior ribs?

In the future the boat will get a 2nd station, so we don't want to just stop gap things with some epoxy injections.

Any info appreciated.

 

[Brent]

viewtopic.php?t=584

 

[Brent]

pic

 

[aalbert]

That is a VERY COOL photo / layup aid.... Thank you very much for sharing.

 

[Brent]

All thanks to Dale H

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[fisheron]

I just completed the roof recore on my 2520. The roof had some soft spots and I expected just to repair some small sections. But shortly into the removal I decided to remove all the wood.

Like others say the roof is made in two parts. One is layed up with the pilothouse itself and has the wood core. On top of this goes the larger but thinner cap with overhanging edges.

The roof can be done several ways but I had extra resin so I replaced the 3/8 plywood core with solid glass lay up. The outer overhang and roof profile was not touched. The added weight is not that much and I will never have to worry about water intrusion again up there.

 

[GoodChance]

I must have gotten luck because my old 25 Parker PH built in 1988 had a divinycell core in the cabin roof. It was a green colored core. There was no wood in the roof.