Rounded my drainplug

[Parker23]

Ok i was cold and layed into my drainplug and stripped it, what are my options to get it out. :x Thanks

 

[Outta Here]

xx

 

[tara11]

Channel Locks !

 

[Parker23]

tryed both, even filed it back to a square and tryed again and it just rounds itself, soaking it over night with crc.

 

[gw204]

EZ-Out or grind it flush, centerpunch it and drill it out. Once you get close to the inner diameter of the threads you should be able to collapse it in on itself without damaging the threads in the garboard fitting itself.

 

[jeffnick]

You might consider taking the whole assembly out, flange and all. Then you can work on it on the bench or just replace the whole thing.

 

[Porkchunker]

You might consider taking the whole assembly out, flange and all. Then you can work on it on the bench or just replace the whole thing.

Ditto on that guidance. Even if you get the rounded plug out, you may have broken the seal on the flange. Best to pull it out and install a new one bedded in 5200.

Recommend you put some OMC "Triple Guard" grease on the threads before inserting the plug. It will keep the threads from seizing. Also...they are tapered brass, and you DON'T need to lay into them when inserting. Insert until you feel resistance and give it maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn and no more.

I'm on a trailer and remove mine each time I depart the boat. So mine gets a lot of use and stays free. If you are in a slip, the OMC Triple Guard will help.

 

[Bucktail]

I did what jeffnick did. I pulled the whole assembly off, and actually just replaced it with a new one that matched the same hole pattern. I then used Life-Caulk to reseal everything. (Good Stuff!)

 

[DaleH]

Nothing I can add to either the 'drill/punch out' method or remove and replace method. Less maybe I prefer 5200 for underwater use.

 

[Bryan 2530]

I usually put teflon tape on the threads of the plug which seems to prevent it becomming frozen.

As Dale said I can't add anything but I would vote for the replace method if the penetrating oil does not work.

 

[Megabyte]

You might consider taking the whole assembly out, flange and all. Then you can work on it on the bench or just replace the whole thing.

That is the way I'd do it.
3 screws, some 4200, and you're done.

Oh... and on the new one, put some teflon tape on the plug threads. :wink:

 

[Parker23]

I removed the whole assembly and will 5200 the new one in. I was the idiot who caused this by over tightening it this past spring, will put that grease on it this time. Thanks for replies!

 

[gw204]

Leave it to me to come up with the most difficult way of doing something... :lol:

 

[Bucktail]

Be careful using the3M 5200. IF it ever happens again you will pissed you have to replace garboard drain agaqin, and pissed you can't get off because you used 3M. Life-Caulk or 3M 4200 will be the way to get this done!

 

[Parker23]

is 4200 good below the waterline?

 

[Megabyte]

is 4200 good below the waterline?

Most people will use 5200 for anything below the waterline. In fact, I have had projects where I used 5200 for projects above the waterline.

4200 and 5200 are essentially the same product. The difference being that 5200 includes a powerful adhesive in the formulation.
5200 seals like 4200, but includes the mechanical bond of the adhesive in order to seal the item you are dealing with.

If you have a trailerable boat, I personally do not see a problem using 4200 in this application, in place of 5200. Others may disagree. The proof may well be during the day that you want to remove and replace the part in question.

If you never want to have to remove the part, use 5200. It is an amazingly strong and stable product.
But... if there is any question in your mind, consult the 3M site to find the most appropriate sealant for your application.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... rine/Home/