Screws Falling Out of Console
- Thread starter lmurtagh
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BradH
Well-known member
Can you get to the back side? If so I would through bolt with machine screws. Heads should match the others.
Otherwise fill with thickened epoxy and re-drill.
Otherwise fill with thickened epoxy and re-drill.
You could inject a small amount of thickened epoxy into the hole and redrill a pilot hole for the existing screw size. If you can access the back put some tape over the hole, same for the front to hold it while it cures.
You could also use a larger diameter screw or try some teflon tape on the old screw threads. A few plastic toothpicks would work also.
You could also use a larger diameter screw or try some teflon tape on the old screw threads. A few plastic toothpicks would work also.
The epoxy will likely just run out the back of the hole, try the plastic toothpicks or any small plastic diameter filler material.
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I like what Tom suggested.
OP, what is the mechanism that walks them out? Are the screws too small for the holes (stripped) or are the two pieces trying to move independently of each other?
Is the "top cap" is moving at the corner? If that is the case, I would gently pry it out with a plastic putty knife or something and insert a long piece of double sided 3m tape to serve as a gasket and lock the pieces together. The stuff is no joke. Run an acetone rag in the gap first to clean. Then put the appropriately sized screws back in, preferably through the strip of tape.
I have used fatter screws before, and when the heads are slightly too big, grind them smaller with sandpaper or a grinding wheel. PIA, but it's only 3 of them. Buy extra because you will mess up a few.
OP, what is the mechanism that walks them out? Are the screws too small for the holes (stripped) or are the two pieces trying to move independently of each other?
Is the "top cap" is moving at the corner? If that is the case, I would gently pry it out with a plastic putty knife or something and insert a long piece of double sided 3m tape to serve as a gasket and lock the pieces together. The stuff is no joke. Run an acetone rag in the gap first to clean. Then put the appropriately sized screws back in, preferably through the strip of tape.
I have used fatter screws before, and when the heads are slightly too big, grind them smaller with sandpaper or a grinding wheel. PIA, but it's only 3 of them. Buy extra because you will mess up a few.
I think the two pieces are trying to move independently of one another. This put stress on the screws and led to them becoming stripped and falling out. So in addition to fixing the holes so the screws can bite again--yes I will also be trying to bond or reinforce the joint where the two pieces meet. Not sure how much I will be able to pry them apart. I will look into the tape--thanks for sharing
I use zip ties in situations like this. Cut a zip tie into 1/2" pieces. Hold the zip tie in the hole then insert and screw in the the screws. It works just like a plastic anchor for sheetrock. Come to think of it, I have plastic anchors holding the hinges for my transom cooler in place. They have been there for two years.
Westerly Fluke Guy
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New screws on size bigger where needed and bedded with West System Reinforced waterproof epoxy. can add creme type color pigment if needed. West Marine has it all pretty cheap.
Is your T-top attached to the console? If it is I'll bet is is a contributor to the flexing of the console. Some T-tops flex like a mother in rough conditions.
mbaltay
Member
My two cents for what it's worth.
Hard to know what the loads are vibrations or why that's loosening up, but it seems to me the real issue is that those are probably 3/ 16-in thick and there's not really enough bite. Normally you want at least one diameter's worth of decent thread engagement engagement so, if you have a you know a 3/16 in wide screw it's really marginal especially when you take stainless steel which is super strong against you know somewhat aging fiberglass. So what Parker really should have done is built in some wood stringers behind that into the fiberglass so that you're not biting into just the thin panel but rather something substantive. No you can't fault them because as someone said you know it could be a t-top which is an aftermarket and they never designed it for those loads.
My guess is that some epoxy approaches or zip ties and all those things might work very well for years depending upon what's loading that That said I usually try to improve on any situation if I can. I think there might be a couple possibilities if you can pry those panels apart enough to be able to get into the back side. I'd try to get you know one or two really decent strong connections to support the load and then the rest don't take nearly as much. Depending upon the exact situation what you don't want is for that to continue and then at some point start to crack the panels. Another pretty strong possibility would just be to find some big heavy duty aluminum or stainless steel rivets, drill it out clean but that's going to have aesthetic drawbacks, unless you can come up with a clever way to cover the front nicely
Hard to know what the loads are vibrations or why that's loosening up, but it seems to me the real issue is that those are probably 3/ 16-in thick and there's not really enough bite. Normally you want at least one diameter's worth of decent thread engagement engagement so, if you have a you know a 3/16 in wide screw it's really marginal especially when you take stainless steel which is super strong against you know somewhat aging fiberglass. So what Parker really should have done is built in some wood stringers behind that into the fiberglass so that you're not biting into just the thin panel but rather something substantive. No you can't fault them because as someone said you know it could be a t-top which is an aftermarket and they never designed it for those loads.
My guess is that some epoxy approaches or zip ties and all those things might work very well for years depending upon what's loading that That said I usually try to improve on any situation if I can. I think there might be a couple possibilities if you can pry those panels apart enough to be able to get into the back side. I'd try to get you know one or two really decent strong connections to support the load and then the rest don't take nearly as much. Depending upon the exact situation what you don't want is for that to continue and then at some point start to crack the panels. Another pretty strong possibility would just be to find some big heavy duty aluminum or stainless steel rivets, drill it out clean but that's going to have aesthetic drawbacks, unless you can come up with a clever way to cover the front nicely
That same joint in my ‘97 1700 are through bolted with nylock washers. If you have access to the back side, that’s the way I’d go.
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If you have rear access then washers & bolts is the permitted solution. If no rear access then I’m with team zip tie. I’ve also had good luck with stuffing screw holes with appropriate length tooth pick pieces that I’ve dipped in carpenter’s glue and then sending a screw home. Sounds and probably is somewhat ghetto but it’s worked for me and if you eventually have to repeat the procedure, you can. No drilling or making bigger holes involved. If it works it works and if it doesn’t, you haven’t made your problem any bigger….
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Bear with me. I did something similar year ago getting a backing plate installed. Going to take two people *if* you can see the area from inside the console.
I understand you can't easily get to the back side. Take a strip of aluminum and drill 3 holes that exactly match your current holes. Epoxy 3 nylock nuts to the back, precisely spaced to match your holes. The idea is that you will hold this yardstick shaped metal strip in place through that hatch in your console. You will of course need three bolts long enough to reach through the glass, through the strip, and through the nuts.
Stick a smaller nail or scratch awl through one of the holes to locate the fixture and install the other two bolts through the nuts, then install the last one. Tighten them evenly and use enough epoxy to fix the nuts to the aluminum strip that it's permanent. The other option would be to epoxy the nuts facing the screws with the strip outside of the nuts and then break the strip off the nuts.
I understand you can't easily get to the back side. Take a strip of aluminum and drill 3 holes that exactly match your current holes. Epoxy 3 nylock nuts to the back, precisely spaced to match your holes. The idea is that you will hold this yardstick shaped metal strip in place through that hatch in your console. You will of course need three bolts long enough to reach through the glass, through the strip, and through the nuts.
Stick a smaller nail or scratch awl through one of the holes to locate the fixture and install the other two bolts through the nuts, then install the last one. Tighten them evenly and use enough epoxy to fix the nuts to the aluminum strip that it's permanent. The other option would be to epoxy the nuts facing the screws with the strip outside of the nuts and then break the strip off the nuts.
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Careful on the tightening when through bolting....The holes like to crack at the countersink.
