Seacock handle broke

[FSAParker21]

Time to replace what is probably the original Seacock in my 99’ 21 SE. looks like a few threads on this for me to review. Is this a major project for my boatyard or do I just need to buy a new Seacock and replace the old one. What parts in addition to the Seacock will I need. Thanks

 

[warthog5]

Replace!.........The handle broke due to lack of cylcling the Seacock and eventually locked up.

 

[FSAParker21]

Replace!.........The handle broke due to lack of cylcling the Seacock and eventually locked up.

Agreed! I was thinking of using a Groco FBV750. If I am lucky I will be able to get the old one off… it’s been there a long long time. Any suggestions? Thanks for the reply.

 

[Brent]

Do you have good access?

I don't on 94 2330
I just reach out to find the handle and tough to see

Removal will take 1the most time, then prep work .

For me, it would be quicker going pickup using drill

 

[FSAParker21]

Access is easy. But I don’t see how this was secured to the hull.

 

[FSAParker21]

Looks like some caulking inside the hull and the through hull (tightening) is how this is attached.

 

[Mpellet]

Access is easy. But I don’t see how this was secured to the hull.

Sealed in with 4200 or 5200. I swapped out the seacock for my raw water wash down pump about 10 years ago and recall that there were no bolts or screws holding the sea **** in. I used 4200 to seal the new seacock in and for the last ten years I make sure to open and close the seacock at least 1 time a week when the boat is in the water. I haven’t had any subsequent issues with “broken handles” .

 

[Andy]

Access is easy. But I don’t see how this was secured to the hull.

It's secured with the treaded rod from the strainer, into the threads in the seacock. Parker doesn't use bolts through the base-holes in the sea-****.

But like I said, I've seen Parker (and many others) NOT utilized the bolts, as shown here.

 

[FSAParker21]

Sealed in with 4200 or 5200. I swapped out the seacock for my raw water wash down pump about 10 years ago and recall that there were no bolts or screws holding the sea **** in. I used 4200 to seal the new seacock in and for the last ten years I make sure to open and close the seacock at least 1 time a week when the boat is in the water. I haven’t had any subsequent issues with “broken handles” .

Thanks. Just ordered a new Seacock and thruhull from Grecco. Just waiting for the parts to arrive.

 

[FSAParker21]

It's secured with the treaded rod from the strainer, into the threads in the seacock. Parker doesn't use bolts through the base-holes in the sea-****.
View attachment 34538
But like I said, I've seen Parker (and many others) NOT utilized the bolts, as shown here.
View attachment 34539

Thanks. As you can see from the pics of my boat … no backing plate when originally installed. My plan is to just replace with a new Seacock and thruhull fitting and caulk.

 

[pelagic2530]

Based on experience, everyone above is likely correct: while you have a boltable flange on your seacock, Parker elects to install them with just sealant.

Which is probably sufficient to keep it from spinning or loosening, and probably also meets ABYC requirements as far as sturdiness of installation.

If you’re inclined to do it so that it’s perfect, get yourself one of the prefabricated mounting rings from Groco. Mount that with epoxy around the seacock hole, and bolt the seacock flange into that. Make sure that any area between the two is filled in with an appropriate marine sealant.