Second Station Install

[school skipper]

A little imput please..
Finishing up with my second station install in my 2320. I'm ready to make my hydraulic connections to complete the dual steering set up. I ended up getting the second station kit directly from Parker. Included for the install was a coil of unfinished black tubing along with the appropriate brass connectors. From looking at the set up in a new 2320 at my local dealer it appears that there are two runs of hose from front helm (port) and (Starboard) to the motor cylinder mount.
These lines have 2 T's in them under the gunwale just behind the chair that run through the bulkhead to the back helm (port) and (starboard). There is then a single hose line that runs directly from front helm to rear helm. My plan is to mimic this set up using connectors an T's provided in the kit and cutting the three lengths of tubing from the coil provided. The problem is, all the SeaStar instructions state that you should NOT cut the hydraulic line tubing? After speaking with a SeaStar Tech today, he was adamant that I should not cut lines and use the brass connectors. He said the proper way is to disconnect front helm lines and coil the excess and reconnect them to new rear helm with T's installed in the helm. He then said measure lengths and order three new lines to connect front helm to back helm. He was also confused as to why Parker sold me a new helm to replace the original one I have in the boat now? (The Kit included 2 new helms) I could not make out the model number on it but it is a 2006 and he would guess that it should be fine to use for dual purposes? Thoughts?

 

[school skipper]

A few pictures from my project.. Before and after of my inside console. After much consideration, I decided to move gauges and panels to free up area to mount my Morse controls in the console. Because of the bump out where the existing controls are mounted, I felt fabricating and mounting a box would take up too much room and make for tight quarters and also impede upon my storage space below. I also added a photo of the hydraulic components I mentioned in my original post..

 

[warthog5]

Well..... You went about it a LOT different than I've ever done one.

I do it like the Seastar guy said......But I don't use Seastar anymore. I use Uflex.

That 3rd hose is a bypass hose.....and yes you bought a helm that you don't need.

The T's go on your main helm and you may need 90's to do a neat job at the 2nd helm also.

He told you not to cut the hoses because he figured you had the already made up outboard hoses.

 

[school skipper]

Thanks for the input Warthog. So... Not sure if that's good or bad that you've never done one like that..?
I'm slowly working my way through this based on what Parker sent me in the kit and from what I'm seeing in the new boat set ups as well as a local boat the same age as mine that was set up with the second station from Parker.. This is a picture I took from a new 2017 2320 showing the T's tapped into the main lines running front to back. Do you think that if I cut into my lines the same way, I will have an issue with a solid connection due to the fact that there will be hydraulic fluid residue in the lines? Any other way, I will be running 5 hoses though the bulk head opening along with the four cables and wire harness.. I'm also weary positioning the T's off my main helm, due to the fact it is already congested under there!..

 

[Megabyte]

Maybe I'm missing something.
It's plastic line using compression fittings so I'm not understanding why you can't cut to fit.

 

[kidfreediver]

Wow someone told you some wrong things. For one they sold you wrong stuff. 2 your going about it the hard way with Morse controls I hate those. Make it tough for anyone to drive the boat. I did a whole tutorial on a second steer station on here. Wish you would of asked sooner about doing this project we could of pointed you in a less resistance situation. I'm going to pm you with my number and talk to you a little bit if you don't mind. Want to get exactly your doing in mind or squared away. Love to help out.

 

[kidfreediver]

Oh "ark 2530 renovations has some documentation on doing this project"

 

[flyhigh123]

can you post some pictures of the backside of the second station?

 

[warthog5]

I just went back over your pix's....... I see you have a side console mount for the control in the Pilothouse.

That will not work.........AND.....You have no where to mount a control like you have at the 2nd station.

 

[school skipper]

After a conversation with Kidfreediver, weighing the options and looking at the pro's and cons, I decided to salvage my existing inside yamaha 703 control and add a 704 top mount to the outside console. I will be installing the SeaStar solution DS unit gear, throttle and manual selector switch in the cabin. This allows me to run two single lever controls while avoiding to install the extra key switch panel and trim button in my console and if all goes as planned, the cable runs should be concealed and much neater. There are seven xtreme cables needed for this set up as compared to 4 with the Morse control set up which I decided against. From what I've been told by SeaStar tech, this system use to be a bit clunky but with the new xtreme CCX633 cables, are now smooth and quiet and have started to become a popular way to go. This was all confirmed by Kidfreediver who has this set up in his boat and highly recommended it. Another plus for me is that the xtreme cables are compatible with yamaha therefore no need to purchase adaption kits. Due to the fact that I am used to the single shift and will also have my teenage boys piloting the boat at times, I felt this set up was a better fit for me. I know I'm back tracking a bit (live and learn) but Kidfree has assured me that I won't regret it! Since I already moved around my command link gauges and switch panel to create an area to mount the original Morse controls, I'm going to just cover that area with a starboard plate and install the selector switch in that spot temporarily until I clean it all up with some glass repair if it ends up bothers me too much! In the end, one selector switch under the console will be a lot easier to fit in that space then the Morse, key switch panel and trim switch. I will post photo's as the install moves along.

 

[Megabyte]

Before you build a simple starboard plate for that 704, consider building a simple 'box' on a 45 or 90 degree angle for those controls.
It is much easier to push/pull a single lever system than it is to lift up/push down to make it work.

The helm in my 2520 had a factory 704 binnacle that I switched out for Morse controls when I installed my second station.
Having driven boats with both vertical and horizontal configurations, the push/pull feels more natural to me.

 

[school skipper]

Maybe a little confusion as to what I'm doing with the Starboard.. It's going to cover the space where I WAS going to originally install the Morse before changing my mind and scrapping the Morse set up.. The picture is what I was going to be doing.. I made a template out of cardboard and was going to make on up in starboard but instead, that space will now be where I install the manual station selector switch knob..
I had 2 fabricators look at building me a box like you suggested but they were against it because of limited space in the 2320 and how far down and out it would end up being.. The console mount plan would have been absolutely fine if I were not apprehensive about Morse and fearing one of my boys might inadvertently put it in neutral while operating at high RPM!!.. Trying to keep it simple when it comes to operating the boat.. Sorry about some of the sideways pix's..

 

[school skipper]

Better...

 

[school skipper]

This is the set up I'm going to install..

 

[warthog5]

I installed Teleflex Extreme cables on a dual station setup when they first hit the market.

This was at least 13yrs ago. It's good stuff and have recommended them over the years many times.

But there is a new kid on the block that is being used around here a bunch now. They are made by Glendinning.

http://www.glendinningprods.com/products/control-cables

 

[school skipper]

Thanks Warthog for passing that along, wasn't aware of this manufacturer..
Already ordered the xtreme CCX633's for the install so at this point I'm hopeful that I'll be happy with the way they perform..

 

[Megabyte]

Another option!
Thanks Bobby!

 

[school skipper]

I did notice that you can get them in lengths as small as 2'... According to SeaStar, the smallest you can get the xtreme is 4'...
If the 4 footers I intend to use are to long for the connection between my cabin side mount control and the ds units, It's nice to Know that I have the option of getting something shorter...

 

[school skipper]

Another day off and here comes that rain again!.... Ugh!!!
So Starboard mounting box is built.. If I catch a break in the weather, plan is to slide box forward out of position and make all forward cable connections to the units then slide it aft thru small rod holder bulkhead I temporarily removed to make rear connections from engine cables. Slide box in place, screw secure to floor and make my connections to my two controls and selector switch. I held off on my steering install until so I wouldn't be working around the hoses installing the box.. 10 days left to complete the project.. Any advise on snaking new extreme cables thru black corrugated tubing that runs between transom and engine?

 

[school skipper]

Another Rainy weekend!.. Was able to drop boat in the water this past week for a quick test of the control function and the ds unit system passed with flying colors! Smooth and quiet functioning.. I was extremely pleased with the results. Steering hoses in place and going to purge the lines then wire up rear trim and on/off/kill switch. Couple questions?
1) Is there anything different about purging and bleeding a dual steering system I should know about?
2) Info on connecting the wiring between the 703 and the 704 controls?
My thought is to make jumper wire extensions to plug into and join the two?
Thanks