Simrad 3 in 1 transducer mounting location

[Miker1234]

Hello all,

I’m about to install a Simrad 3 in 1 transducer in my 2320 with an outboard bracket and with trim tabs.I see many different mounting locations online. Which location do you all recommend? Ideally, I’d like to use it at the highest speed possible with this type of transducer with transom mount configuration.
Thanks!

 

[Antidote]

1 and possibly 2 will cause problems for your prop. That leaves 3 and 4.

 

[captmatt]

I have a 23 DVCC. My 3 in 1 transducer is mounted near 1. Works great on plane and no problems with cavitation. Need to be sure to adjust the depth of the transducer so that it skims and is not too deep when on plane.

PS - I added two weld mount zip tie bases to secure the cable with zip ties after the picture was taken.

 

[Miker1234]

I have a 23 DVCC. My 3 in 1 transducer is mounted near 1. Works great on plane and no problems with cavitation. Need to be sure to adjust the depth of the transducer so that it skims and is not too deep when on plane.

PS - I added two weld mount zip tie bases to secure the cable with zip ties after the picture was taken.

Thanks for sharing! I was also thinking of this location but wasn’t sure. I read that prop cavitation can be an issue.

 

[pelagic2530]

Thanks for sharing! I was also thinking of this location but wasn’t sure. I read that prop cavitation can be an issue.

It definitely can be. I think #3 would be your best bet. #4 is a bit too close to the strake, which can also cause issues with clean water flow over the transducer.

I’d also recommend using a Stern Saver plate, so as to avoid drilling holes into the wood cored transom.

 

[captmatt]

Rather than a transducer plate, I drilled holes and then wet them out with epoxy (two coats is better if you have time, thin and then thickened). I put blue tape over the holes to keep any epoxy from running out until it cures, and then re-drill. I also install fasteners and hardware with a bedding sealer such as 3M 4000 or life caulk (but never 3M 5200!).

 

[warthog5]

I would agree with Pelagic.

You say it's a Simrad, but Airmar makes 97% of X-Ducers.

If you look at a Airmar Transom mount instructions....I'll pick one at random.
This is a p66 that used to be very popular....Yes..it is a little different shape, but for our discussion the principles are all the same.....Don't let flow interfer with the prop stream and don't allow allow the surface of the X-ducer to be aireated.
https://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=145
Now look at the instructions. I call your attention to fig# 2.

https://www.airmar.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-247-03.pdf
The next thing that was pointed out was your #4 and how close it was to the strake....BUT also....Not in your pix......Is there a thruhull protruding in front of #3 ?
A water discharge or intake ?
THAT will give you a lot of grief and will cause aireation of the X-Ducer.
IE: You will loose bottom at 8 to 10MPH.

 

[Miker1234]

I would agree with Pelagic.

You say it's a Simrad, but Airmar makes 97% of X-Ducers.

If you look at a Airmar Transom mount instructions....I'll pick one at random.
This is a p66 that used to be very popular....Yes..it is a little different shape, but for our discussion the principles are all the same.....Don't let flow interfer with the prop stream and don't allow allow the surface of the X-ducer to be aireated.
https://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=145
Now look at the instructions. I call your attention to fig# 2.

https://www.airmar.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-247-03.pdf
The next thing that was pointed out was your #4 and how close it was to the strake....BUT also....Not in your pix......Is there a thruhull protruding in front of #3 ?
A water discharge or intake ?
THAT will give you a lot of grief and will cause aireation of the X-Ducer.
IE: You will loose bottom at 8 to 10MPH.

I would agree with Pelagic.

You say it's a Simrad, but Airmar makes 97% of X-Ducers.

If you look at a Airmar Transom mount instructions....I'll pick one at random.
This is a p66 that used to be very popular....Yes..it is a little different shape, but for our discussion the principles are all the same.....Don't let flow interfer with the prop stream and don't allow allow the surface of the X-ducer to be aireated.
https://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=145
Now look at the instructions. I call your attention to fig# 2.

https://www.airmar.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-247-03.pdf
The next thing that was pointed out was your #4 and how close it was to the strake....BUT also....Not in your pix......Is there a thruhull protruding in front of #3 ?
A water discharge or intake ?
THAT will give you a lot of grief and will cause aireation of the X-Ducer.
IE: You will loose bottom at 8 to 10MPH.

I have the Simrad/Lowrance Active Imagining 3 in 1 transducer. The instructions you produced and way more detailed that what I received with my unit. Thanks for sending. There isn’t any thru hull transducer on the boat.

 

[pelagic2530]

Rather than a transducer plate, I drilled holes and then wet them out with epoxy (two coats is better if you have time, thin and then thickened). I put blue tape over the holes to keep any epoxy from running out until it cures, and then re-drill. I also install fasteners and hardware with a bedding sealer such as 3M 4000 or life caulk (but never 3M 5200!).

This is also a good way to go. However, if at any point in the future you upgrade your electronics, it's unlikely that the new transducer will use the same holes. So, you'll have to go through the whole epoxy plug process again. With the plates, once it's mounted it can be re-drilled and re-used for a new mounting pattern.

However, what you can do with the holes that are already drilled if you need to mount a new transducer, is mount a plate using the existing holes and then mount the new transducer to the plate. I just try to avoid putting holes in the transom if I can avoid it.

 

[Miker1234]

This is also a good way to go. However, if at any point in the future you upgrade your electronics, it's unlikely that the new transducer will use the same holes. So, you'll have to go through the whole epoxy plug process again. With the plates, once it's mounted it can be re-drilled and re-used for a new mounting pattern.

However, what you can do with the holes that are already drilled if you need to mount a new transducer, is mount a plate using the existing holes and then mount the new transducer to the plate. I just try to avoid putting holes in the transom if I can avoid it.

I forgot to mention that this is a new boat and no holes are drilled thus far.

 

[captmatt]

The other thing to consider is that the 3-in-1 transducer is for side scan sonar. Ideally, the transducer is mounted at the dead center of the boat. If mounted too far to one side, or especially too high, you can get shadow returns from the prop and skeg.

The 23 deep vee hull has a very small delta pad and that makes the near-center mounting location work well

I read and experimented a lot before I drilled those holes. It works perfectly on my boat and does not impact water to the prop.

On another topic, I am somewhat underwhelmed by side scan sonar. I do not think I would install it if I did things over again. I have a B175hw through hull transducer (installed on the starboard side) and that thing is absolutely fantastic! Much better investment than the 3-in-1 for me.

 

[warthog5]

I just installed a Airmar B175M in a 21 Sportsman.
It had from the factory a Airmar B60 in stainless.

Customer complaint was loosing bottom @ 700ft..... [He wants to deep drop]

This is where the factory bean counters kick in again. It has a Simrad NSSevo3s [and I installed a 2nd one.] That unit is CHIRP. BUT the B-60 is 50/200hz. What's that mean? It means the B-60 limited the Simrad.... IE: No Chirp.
At first I'd tried to save the B-60. Made 2 custom wrenches at my brothers shop on the plasma table. Well the unit was stainless and hard to get to, as usual....The threads seemed to gaul. I throught about it....No one is gonna want this outdated unit. All new units are Chirp, why am I fighting this? Then zip cut the nut off and knocked it out of the hull.
Filled the hole temp. to get a new center for the pilot bit and went from 2 5/16 hole to 3 3/4in hole.

 

[pelagic2530]

I just installed a Airmar B175M in a 21 Sportsman.
It had from the factory a Airmar B60 in stainless.

Customer complaint was loosing bottom @ 700ft..... [He wants to deep drop]

This is where the factory bean counters kick in again. It has a Simrad NSSevo3s [and I installed a 2nd one.] That unit is CHIRP. BUT the B-60 is 50/200hz. What's that mean? It means the B-60 limited the Simrad.... IE: No Chirp.
At first I'd tried to save the B-60. Made 2 custom wrenches at my brothers shop on the plasma table. Well the unit was stainless and hard to get to, as usual....The threads seemed to gaul. I throught about it....No one is gonna want this outdated unit. All new units are Chirp, why am I fighting this? Then zip cut the nut off and knocked it out of the hull.
Filled the hole temp. to get a new center for the pilot bit and went from 2 5/16 hole to 3 3/4in hole.

Just did the same replacement on my 2530- swapping a B60 for a B175HW. I bought the install wrenches from Airmar for $$$… found out that they’re made of the same bronze as the transducers and will bend if you try to put much force on them. That didn’t work. No way that nut was coming off.

Second thought, why not just drill a hole through the existing transducer, and use that as a guide hole for the larger B175 hole. Yeah- I’m not sure what that metal puck inside the transducer is made out of, but it ate up two titanium bits and a masonry one. Barely scratched it. Finally ended up smashing it apart with a chisel, prying out the pieces, and then drilling a pilot hole through the remainder. I wouldn’t recommend this approach.

Your way sounds a lot better, but I know how much 5200 I unwisely gooped it in with when I installed the B60 so I’m not even sure THAT would have worked.

The new B175 got blue AnchorTech instead, since it just needs to seal against leaks since the nut and jam screws secure it to the hull. Should come out a lot easier if it ever needs to.

 

[warthog5]

Fill Old hole temporary.

In the past I have Hot glues a piece of 3/8 plywood over the existing hole from inside the Hull.

On this one...I cut a disc about the same size as the existing hole from som scrap fiberglass I had laying around.
I had a piece of 18ga sheetmetal that I covered with wax paper.....The Duct tape it flush to the bottom of the boat over the hole....Mix a little Bondo or in my case It was Duraglass...Finger swipe it into the edges of the hole from the inside. Drop the puck of fiberglass in the hole and smear a little more into the exposed crack.

After it kicks....Remove the sheetmetal and you have a 1/4in hole perfectly centered where the old hole was.

Then drill your bigger hole.

BUT.....Before you drill.....Go to the inside with the new big Nut and make SURE it will fit correctly and you have enough room.....May need to redrill that 1/4in hole in the puck but off center so the new Big Xducer has room.......It's just stuff to check.

 

[Bodick93]

5200 is not too tough to shear by twisting, (vs pushing perpendicularly) and shearing is less likely to damage gelcoat. But if the wrenches are made out of silly putty, you're kind of limited. I destroyed my B60 as well during removal...patience is not my strong suit. I should have used debond, saved the B60 and recovered a little cash.

 

[warthog5]

When the boat showed up...I douched the X-ducer down with Debond.......and again in the morning, before starting....It released from the hull easily....In fact it was spinning around.... But the nut was stuck on the stem....and remember this one was Stainless....Not Bronze.

I followed Airmar's site....Now this was a Long time ago.....For 2yrs.....it said
COMING SOON : A tilted element X-ducer..... I studied it hard... In the install instructions there was a mistake....They had the wrong size on the size hole to drill in the hull. I waited with baited breath.... Finally I was able to get my hands on ome of the Very early B-60's.........The B-164 [1K watts] wasn't even through of yet. I participated in the Hull Truth at that time...
I started a thread of my experience with it. That thread was 8 pages long , last I remember.
It's my contention that a Non Chirp....= B60 & B164 have little value.
#1 They stop the head unit that IS Chirp from being a Chirp unit.
#2 Mix & Match units took a while to show up. So they were Brand specific.
IE: It fits a Garmin only.....Or God Forbid...fits a Raymarine Only.

In todays game...Units are all CHIRP and to get the Goody designed into to them, they must be paired with a CHIRP X-Ducer.