Substance from prop
- Thread starter Bberm1122
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Lower unit oil?
And, lower unit oil, mixed with water ("Milky").... ?
Your prop shaft is bent letting water by the seals.
It is likely the seals, but I hope the real CP experts will chime in. Is there any other damage (hair-line crack) to the lower unit?.... Some Yamahas, like my 300 HP can get 'milky' oil because of less-than-desirable engineering on Yamahas' part. (The Yamaha manual says 10% water in the lower unit oil is OK.... yes, it really says that!). But you don't see that seeping out of the lower unit like this; you see it in the oil when you change the lower-unit lube/oil. Oil is lighter than water and will 'float' to top of the housing, above the water, which is why the 'milky' water will seep out the bottom first. Depending on what you hit; how hard you hit, will determine if it is serious issue. It may not be serious damage. May need seals? Believe me I am no outboard expert; My past 35 years were with diesels inboards, so I hope some CP experts will correct anything wrong I might be saying here .
After you hit what you hit ,did you notice vibration? loud noise from the lower unit? gears grinding? After you hit, how far, how long, how fast did you run the boat?
Brent
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The prop shaft maybe bent and needs to be checked . Lu needs pressure checked for bad seals. Might replaced are seals, other parts and full water pump. If me, I would find a good LU shop and have it fully inspected.
Yes, vibration afterwards. Didn’t hit prop while going fast. No gears grinding noticed but I limped boat back to slip slowly as possible. Probably took a good 45min getting back afterwards.
I’ll hopefully have it looked at next week and will post update
I'd take that one to the shop. Lower units are tricky and if you don't get everything right, you risk toasting the whole thing. Plus, even if you replace the seals yourself, it's going to be tough to determine if the prop shaft is bent, so you could end up doing the job twice.
Fishaddict
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You most likely bended the shaft and the seal is now not holding. You need a new prop shaft and seals if you planning to keep this motor or buy refurbished/aftermarket LU. If you boat in shallow water a lot switch to aluminum prop. It is more forgiving.
blubby07
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This is why I go with aluminum prop let the prop take the damage not the lower unit.
I hit something offshore once and destroyed the prop $150 bucks new prop back to normal.
sorry that really stinks!
Hope the repair goes well and your back on the water w new aluminum prop quickly!
I hit something offshore once and destroyed the prop $150 bucks new prop back to normal.
sorry that really stinks!
Hope the repair goes well and your back on the water w new aluminum prop quickly!
For it to be leaking that bad, i would agree bent prop shaft. The only thing that seals inside the place the oil is coming from is the shaft seal or the carrier seal. And your carrier seal usually doesn't just go bad. I'm a yamaha tech, not tons of experience on the 2 smokes, but I just had an iffy situation on my f150 LU. Its crazy the price to repair, LU's now a days cost almost as much as a new one depending whats required. I myself went with an SEI, even though some people will argue that. I also swapped to an aluminum prop. Put 140 hours on the sei since and i have no complaints.
Also, we use to use sierra lower unit drain gaskets ( since yamaha come each individually packaged). But we found sierra plug gaskets would get loose and allow water intrusion.
Also, we use to use sierra lower unit drain gaskets ( since yamaha come each individually packaged). But we found sierra plug gaskets would get loose and allow water intrusion.
Fishaddict
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I second above opinion. If you not in position to get a new go with aftermarket. Fixing old makes 0 sense. You have old gears exposed to salt water and work without proper lubrication. you will be close to 1 g in parts and labor will be high unless you will do it yourself.
Looking at more than 1g more than likely, and like you said thats if you do it yourself. And you better be familiar with shimming everything.
I get the dealer cost, which was still about twice the cost of an sei. But yamaha gives you a 1 year warranty and SEI gives you a 3 year warranty. Just food for thought, that was the ice breaker for me. If it last a couple years I have faith, but let it blow right after 1 year and your SOL. Trust me, I stand behind yamaha and am not a fan of aftermarket, but when it comes out of my pocket I weigh my decision a bit more. I will say yami blows volvo and merc out the water with customer service and warranty issues.
