T-Top issue

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BBL

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I am in the process of purchasing a 2501. When I checked out the boat I noticed something strange on the T-top cross brace.
A piece of rubber between the cross brace and the console seemed to be falling out. I questioned the dealer on this and they said it was from transportation from the factory. He also mentioned something later in the conversation about a stainless screw upgrade for the boat. I've attached a pic. It looks like the screws/bolts(forgot to check that) must have loosened. Can someone confirm what this is and the cause.parker t top cross member.jpg
 
What year? I am finishing up significant T Top repairs and improvements on 2018 2501. I should post pictures. We replaced all the neoprene like gaskets with suitable thin LDPE and thru bolted wherever possible. Parker provided stainless steel toggle bolts for the 8 deck tie down plates. Recommend using those, available online (and expensive).

Also welded in additional support brackets which T Top manufacturer (not Parker built) recommend. Check under my username on THT site for more information.

The 2501 T Top, at least on a 2018, is Hugh, which is awesome. But a tremendous amount of weight up top. Those pipes take a lot of stress. IMO, if you boat routinely in 3’ plus seas, need to beef up the T Top connections.
 
Its a 2023. Thanks for this info, if you could post pics that would be great. So the gasket in my pic should actually be there. Here is a pic of how the legs are mounted. Can't tell if they are screwed in or toggle bolts?
 

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Thanks for all this information. It is really helpful!
 
Did you look closely at the repair weld? Loaded with flaws. It may hold but it or another will fail unless
the original cause of failure has been addressed.
Did you ever watch a T-topped boat go by hot dogging it and notice the flexing going on plus the 3 fat guys holding on.
 
Copy that. The welds shown in 2 and 3 done by a EB seasoned pro. Still, agree, not enough. I will post the repairs from this winter. We add 2” flat stock gussets either side. More importantly, installed those toggles on all legs and add four new brackets onto the four leg posts to bolt into the center console. Basic physics, cantilevered mass held up by four cylindrical aluminum pipes. And subject to intense normal and lateral forces.
 
I actually think the welding is fine. Welding thin wall aluminum tubing without access to the backside is not always easy. Aluminum needs to be relatively clean prior to welding. Any impurities on the inside of the tube get consumed in the weld puddle and it doesn't flow very well. You almost always have to weld on the cool side, which it looks like he did. The weld size is adequate and it transitions into the base metal at a better angle. This, by itself, will make for a stronger joint. Adding gussets will certainly add even more strength. As tomc said, it may transfer stresses elsewhere now. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished pics.
 
Because it’s not a true Parker. It’s a Correct Craft Parker. Sorry you have to get it repaired. Good luck.
 
Read over your THT posts, well, yes, identical!

Thank you for sharing.

You said Parker knew what happened; can you share what they said?

My guess, once the screws loosened (front port leg in mine) , bad things happen. Water gets in, and only two screws were used, so quickly the other loosens. Now it’s a guess. The front post is free to slam repeatedly on the deck, sending impulsive forces throughout the T Top, That can weaken the joints. Or, as one suggested to you, an imbalance resulted in high stresses at the welds.

Was it the top forward crossbar that cracked?
 
Before and after welds both are not very good in my opinion. I would have ground out old weld and tig welded it back.
Then added gussets in appropriate spots. This is what a good aluminum weld looks like. I think they used a wire gun, but not sure. wire guns are fine but they put down a lot of metal fast.
 

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Read over your THT posts, well, yes, identical!

Thank you for sharing.

You said Parker knew what happened; can you share what they said?

My guess, once the screws loosened (front port leg in mine) , bad things happen. Water gets in, and only two screws were used, so quickly the other loosens. Now it’s a guess. The front post is free to slam repeatedly on the deck, sending impulsive forces throughout the T Top, That can weaken the joints. Or, as one suggested to you, an imbalance resulted in high stresses at the welds.

Was it the top forward crossbar that cracked?
Yes, it was the forward bar that cracked.

As it was explained to me, for what it's worth, the T-top is really held by those spots that are mid-consol, those are the points that experience the most strain. The screws to the deck are important but the T-top is held in place by those mid-consol spots. If the screws come out for whatever reason on those spots, in sporty seas the system becomes unbalances and can fail. It appears as though the vendor that initially screwed the T-top in place at those vital spots did not do so in a way that was permanent and the screws came loose. Why that happened, who knows. Either way, when the screws came loose on that front spot, the T-top became unstable and started moving, pulling up the deck screws and causing the cross bar to fracture.

I was unaware of the danger and falsely assumed the T-top was fine. Now that I know the issue I am constantly checking the inside of the consol to ensure that the screws are tight, and if one looks like it is getting loose, I replace the screw with a new stainless screw and put multiple bolts covered in locktite on it. Since the issue in 2020, I've only had to replace one screw, so it's not a big deal, it just is a failure point that needs to be watched.

When it happened, I was very upset, as this was a brand new boat and I did not want to be out the 20k+ that probably was going to cost to replace the entire t-top system. However, my local shop (Hilton Head Boathouse) and Parker were totally on top of this issue and they had the entire system replaced. They kept in close contact with me throughout the process and I am forever greateful that the shop and Parker were willing to stand by their product and do what needed to be done.

Having been educated on the T-top's failure points and how to avoid trouble in the future, I am as happy as ever with my boat. I'll tell you though, limping in from going offshore with a broken t-top was not a happy day for me.
 
Here are recent photos of work
 

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we grouper fish a lot, got to have some shade.... I built this for my boat and one just like it for my old 25ft parker.
 

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Final completed T-top work, quite sturdy now. Marshall4949 identifies one of key issue. In the first photo (1357), the screw holes can widen, resulting in additional movement and vibration of the entire T-top. Indeed, the port side had widened, these were reglassed. Next photo shows the installed G10 backing plates, and thru bolted, no screws anywhere now.

Photo (1363) shows the fillet welds and finished painting. All of the deck plates (photos 1343 - 1341) are now thru bolted, there are 8 SS toggle bolts in place. In future, would recommend larger plates, and four THRU-BOLTS in each plate. In addition, four lower brackets have been added, as shown in these photos, providing additional T-Top support. Photos (1350, 48, 47, 45) show the G10 backing plates.

The welding was $1,200. The glasswork, installing the toggle bolts, backing plates, painting, $1,800. Not an inexpensive undertaking, though all contracted out. One issue here in the Northeast, winter. Need indoor facility.
 

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