This a seacock or ball valve? And how to replace based on pics?

[afitzray]

The thru hull that supplies raw water to the head is having issues. It turn freely about half way then gets stuck as it gets closer to full open position. I expected it was a ball valve but I don’t see where it would thread onto the base. And now that I’m looking closer at the pics I’m seeing that maybe the original 5200 is lifted where someone was really putting some force on this trying to get it to thr fill open position and might have cracked the base loose.

What’s the best plan of attack? Can I just wrench this off from inside the hull? Does someone need to be on the outside with a thru hull wrench so that side doesn’t spin? Just had it bottom painted so I’d like to avoid messing that up if possible.

Any idea what replacement size I need on a 2006 2820?

 

[pelagic2530]

Sure looks like a seacock to me. Here’s a picture of mine; the shape looks pretty much identical:
As far as removing it… that could be a chore based on the condition. The seacock threads onto the threaded stem of the thru-hull fitting, and then bolts/screws to the hull, although yours doesn’t look like it is fastened at all. In theory, you should be able to simply rotate it counter clockwise to unthread it, although you’d be wise to have someone supporting the fitting on the outside. In reality, there’s a whole lot of corrosion, salt buildup, and worst of all 5200 around that seacock. Getting it loose may be pretty difficult.

Worst case scenario, it is bronze, and a cutting tool should be able to hack it off. But you will risk damaging the gelcoat.

Have you tried sealing off the outside opening, removing the hose, and filling it with PBlaster or the penetrating corrosion remover of your choice? Additionally, it may give you the opportunity to inspect the fitting; it’s possible there’s a removable blockage.

 

[afitzray]

Sure looks like a seacock to me. Here’s a picture of mine; the shape looks pretty much identical:
As far as removing it… that could be a chore based on the condition. The seacock threads onto the threaded stem of the thru-hull fitting, and then bolts/screws to the hull, although yours doesn’t look like it is fastened at all. In theory, you should be able to simply rotate it counter clockwise to unthread it, although you’d be wise to have someone supporting the fitting on the outside. In reality, there’s a whole lot of corrosion, salt buildup, and worst of all 5200 around that seacock. Getting it loose may be pretty difficult.

Worst case scenario, it is bronze, and a cutting tool should be able to hack it off. But you will risk damaging the gelcoat.

Have you tried sealing off the outside opening, removing the hose, and filling it with PBlaster or the penetrating corrosion remover of your choice? Additionally, it may give you the opportunity to inspect the fitting; it’s possible there’s a removable blockage.

Thank you that helps a lot. I'm going to pull those hose to inspect and add some liquid wrench tomorrow and hope for the best. I had done this previously and had it working but of course it failed for the marine survey I just did for insurance. My only concern now is if the 5200 seal might be broken at the base of the flange and could let water seep in. I'd love to save this job until fall when the boat gets pulled out for storm season. I was hoping to put it in the water this weekend for the first time since I bought it 9 months ago but it might have to wait another week. At some point I'll have to post a long project thread.

 

[Andy]

The thru hull that supplies raw water to the head is having issues. It turn freely about half way then gets stuck as it gets closer to full open position. I expected it was a ball valve but I don’t see where it would thread onto the base. And now that I’m looking closer at the pics I’m seeing that maybe the original 5200 is lifted where someone was really putting some force on this trying to get it to thr fill open position and might have cracked the base loose.

What’s the best plan of attack? Can I just wrench this off from inside the hull? Does someone need to be on the outside with a thru hull wrench so that side doesn’t spin? Just had it bottom painted so I’d like to avoid messing that up if possible.

Any idea what replacement size I need on a 2006 2820?

Same source definition;

Ball Valve, is what Groco calls it. (before it's installed?) If it meets the 90 degree throw criteria, and the 500 lb. rating then it meets the ABYC H-57 criteria.... I'd be surprised if the ball valve/seacocks on my 2520 meets the 500lb rating; they have the three mounting holes, but they are not used...