Time for a new trailer ?

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SamR

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I don't know for sure but I think the Calkins trailer that came with my 98 1800 is original. I have worn through a keel roller and in examining the other rollers, I noticed that the hardware holding the bunks and rollers up is in sorry shape. Questions....

Should I switch from galvi to aluminum?
Should I get brakes?
If so, what kind?
Springs or torsion axle?
Where should I buy from?
Anything else to consider?
How much is this goint to hurt $?$?

Many thanks :)
 
In order...

Aluminum
If you tow a long way, yes, if you use trailer basicly as storage, no
Kodiac discs, SilverCadium Plating (middle grade)
Torsion
Whoever sells LoadMaster made in Tampa Fla.

You didn't mention bunk or roller, I understand some "Northerners" have to have a roller trailer (something about shallow ramps). If so you're stuck with another galv trailer.
 
Thanks Fish Factory :)

I've got bunks now and will stick with them for the next trailer. From what I hear they support the hull better and hopefully the torsion axle will drop me down another few inches so that the shallow ramps are not as much of an issue. This will be a heavy use (though you can't judge by this season :roll: ) trailer, with usual runs 100 miles one way.

I've got two 14" biplys now. At what point do you step up in size and number?
 
Try here...

www.loadmastertrailer.com

I would get the middle grade of Kodiac Discs (1 axle) for 100 mi. tows. When you look at trailers, make sure the axles are "V" shaped, allow boat closer to road, easier to launch.

If you go w/Loadmaster, let me know and I'll give you 2 reliable dealers. One in Jacksonville, one in Tampa. A large part of the cost is shipping. If you plan a trip to Fla. and p/u the trailer, you can get a "free vacation" out of it.

Tandem or single axle? That's your choice. Do you tow with a mini-van, small sedan, or Ford Truck (joke :D )? If so, a tandem will take some of the "bouncy, up and down jerking" out of the trip. Of course, you've got 4 tires and 4 bearings to maintain. The tandem would be "over-rated" so if you have a flat, you can probably continue w/o changing tire. IMO, tandems track better than single axles.

If you tow with a Tahoe/Suburban/Silverado type vehicle, don't believe you'll notice the handling advantages of a tandem as much. One dis-advantage of a small tandem is the 13" tires, they'll spin faster than the 14"ers. But, again be closer to road and easier to launch.

If you tow with a Dodge, well.....good luck! :D
 
FishFactory":2cchv4ab said:
Tie-Down discs, E-Clad (middle grade)

I agree with your other recommendations, but why do you like Tie Down over other brands?

I would think Kodiak stainless would be the preferred brand and type, especially if you're only running brakes on a single axle. :?:

Just curious...
 
My mistake, guess you call it a "brain fart". No matter what trailer you buy, spec only Kodiac brakes. Kodiac brakes, are as I understand it, direct decendents of Chevy 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks. Easy to get parts.

The Kodiac Stainless Steel disc is pricey, but absolutely the best. I've got the middle grade, "SilverCadium coating" I think it's called and they work good after 1 season.

Thanks for the "heads up", Mega
 
What makes you think the entire trailer needs to be replaced because of rollers and hardware. If the frame and axles are in decent shape, only replace what you need.

You can buy the hardware and replace them in an afternoon...even if you have to take a grinder and grind off the old bolts. When it comes time for me to replace my hardware, the cutting torch comes out and 5 minutes later I'll be installing the new hardware...how do you think the shops remove those old rusty galvanized bolts...not with wrenches I guarantee you.

If the axles, spindles, and hubs/brakes need to be replaced also, then you are starting to get into the realm of a new trailer. If it is only rollers, then do the parts-piece swap and save your money for boat gas.

WRT brakes, I swapped out the old drums on my 2002 EZ-Loader with Kodiak Cadmium disks and couldn't be happier. SS is pricey, and may follow the old adage: "Perfect is the enemy of good enough."
 
Sounds like I need to step back and have someone who knows more than I take a look at my situation. I bet that I could figure out replacing the hardware (done springs... twice (don't ask)) but the logistics of removing a boat, ripping things apart and then getting the new stuf to fit correctly may be a bit beyond me right now.
 
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