Vertical windlass on a 2120?

gregd123 · Mar 5, 2021

Minimum chain length should be the length of your boat especially if you are ever going to overnight. Personally I doubled it as I don't ever want to wake up on the rocks.

Also, I second Pelagic's comment about 8-plait rode. I am in the exact same boat (pun intended) and you have to be a contortionist to get into a locker full of 3 strand rode to get your hand up to where you can pull the last 100 feet or so of rode in off the front slope of the locker.

warthog5 · Mar 6, 2021

The problem with vertical is not enough drop....That is why people use Horizontal.....and even then the drop is marginal. Read the installation instructions.

Just keep swimming · Mar 28, 2021

I almost always get my lewmar (2540 dc) jammed with chain when bringing anchor up and when going down. It is brutal. Anyone else have chain problems? Its not even where chain and rope join- its just mid chain.

pelagic2530 · Mar 28, 2021

Just keep swimming said:
I almost always get my lewmar (2540 dc) jammed with chain when bringing anchor up and when going down. It is brutal. Anyone else have chain problems? Its not even where chain and rope join- its just mid chain.

Do you have a swivel shackle on your anchor? Some windlasses will bind if there’s a twist in the chain. Otherwise, make sure the chain you have is matched to the windlass model, as there are several sizes and types.

How exactly is it binding?

Cheapie408 · Mar 28, 2021

I picked up a profish 700 for the boat. Planning to install it in the next few weeks once I get my steering issues figured out. Will let you know how it works out.

Andy · Mar 28, 2021

sydngoose said:
You will want the Lewmar profish 700 on your 2120. The 1000 series is over kill.

This is what I mounted on my 2120 nearly 8 years ago.
This is what Parker mounted in my 2320.
Yes, free fall is what you want. Why wouldn’t you??
Lewmar recommends installing so that the chain and rode fall directly down with no slope.
I actually spent a tremendous amount of time and energy building a windlass pad so it does drop straight down with the 2120. It was very time consuming but turned out great. Also, not once in ownership did I have a cobble/ hobble or jam.

Now, on my 2320, Parker mounted it aft on the pulpit and the rode does drop down with a slope into the anchor locker. So far, I have had no jams/hobbles with the rode.

I will say that I have a bow mounted trolling motor with GPS spot lock, so I don't anchor anymore unless dropping an anchor to explore a beach line or island. But, that is in less than 10 feet of water where I am dropping anchor and using the windlass to retract the rode.

On my 2120:

Sydngoose, I don't know how I missed this when you first posted it... A few of us have been discussing the issue with rain water getting in the anchor-rode locker; water entering via the bow/deck hatch, and the hole under the windlass; "You solved most of the issues with what you posted here"!
1) You eliminated the bow/deck hatch; you sealed it up; got rid of it! No more leakage there.
2) You raised the windlass; less water running down the pulpit, into the hole under the windlass, and therefore, greatly reduced the amount of water intrusion.
4) It's a project, 'beyond my skill-level'.
5) How much, to get you to come to NC and fix mine that way! ☺... Nice job.

Cheapie408 · Mar 29, 2021

Does anyone know how thick the material is from the pulpit down to the anchor locker? I have a 3" hole saw but it would only go 1" deep. I'm sure this is barely enough. Is it possible to go from the top down then from the bottom up?

warthog5 · Mar 29, 2021

You drill the 1in deep with the Holesaw and with a screwdriver and hammer you pop that piece off.....Then go to drilling again.....This is Very common with a thick piece and a holesaw. Do I know "HOW" thick it is? Nope....