WATER OVER THE TRANSOM

[Megabyte]

... and adding some additional scupper holes near the deck on the lower half of the "clamshell" in case a wave went over the entire transom. Might work.

Great idea!

That is what makes this site so great.
People sharing ideas... 8)

 

[Parker23]

I have a 2310 with DV and notched transom. The boat came with a curved fiberglass splash guard that rises to about half way up the distance to the top of the transom. I ordered a second splashguard, turned it upside own, and fastened them together like a clam shell. They are fastened by stainless steel hinges that allow the top of the "clamshell" to be folded forward away from the engine so that the engine can be fully trimmed out of the water at the dock. When running I have bungee cords holding the top rearward. The motor can still be trimmed adequately for running or anchoring in shallow water even without moving the top half forward.

I used this to reduce noise from the original 2 stroke engine. Have never had a problem taking on water but have not anchored offshore. You could improve on this by using metal latches rather than bungees to help it stand up to the force of a wave, and adding some additional scupper holes near the deck on the lower half of the "clamshell" in case a wave went over the entire transom. Might work.

Can you tell us how much the second well went for? Thanks

 

[Bob M]

I bought it from Parker and I think it was only about $100. It was several years ago so I don't remember exactly, but I remember thinking it was pretty inexpensive. Your parker dealer could give you a price. I just asked them for a replacement for the original well.

 

[Old Salt]

This topic really has me thinking, does anyone have any pictures of these splash guards? I have a 2520 with a 250 and a notched transom. So this has me worried, I would like to install a splash guard. Any pictures would help me.

 

[Parker23]

This topic really has me thinking, does anyone have any pictures of these splash guards? I have a 2520 with a 250 and a notched transom. So this has me worried, I would like to install a splash guard. Any pictures would help me.

not a good picture of splash well but it is there.

 

[CAN'T PARKER]

PARKER 23, YOUR SPLASH BOARD IS DIFFERENT THEN MINE. DOES WATER GET UNDER YOUR BOARD ON ONTO THE DECK OF YOUR BOAT WHILE YOUR FISHING?

 

[fliboi21]

here is a pic of the factory splashguard on a 99 2310. Worked great never had water on the deck, just took up some room. Disregard the kid, could not find a picture with just the splash guard

 

[Parker23]

PARKER 23, YOUR SPLASH BOARD IS DIFFERENT THEN MINE. DOES WATER GET UNDER YOUR BOARD ON ONTO THE DECK OF YOUR BOAT WHILE YOUR FISHING?

Splash well is sealed and screwed to deck, no water gets under it. It is the same as FLIBOI21 picture.

 

[CAN'T PARKER]

THAT'S AWESOME, I HAVE ONLY ONE PROBLEM. I HAVE A HATCH IN THE FLOOR TO GET TO MY BATTERIES, FUEL FILTER AND OIL TANK. IT PROBABLY ISN'T THAT HARD TO MOVE IT FORWARD ENOUGH TO INSTALL THE SPLASH BOARD. YOU SAY THAT YOU GOT THE SPLASH BOARD FROM THE PARKER DEALER,RIGHT. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

 

[Parker23]

THAT'S AWESOME, I HAVE ONLY ONE PROBLEM. I HAVE A HATCH IN THE FLOOR TO GET TO MY BATTERIES, FUEL FILTER AND OIL TANK. IT PROBABLY ISN'T THAT HARD TO MOVE IT FORWARD ENOUGH TO INSTALL THE SPLASH BOARD. YOU SAY THAT YOU GOT THE SPLASH BOARD FROM THE PARKER DEALER,RIGHT. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

Call or email parker, they will ask your hull# and be able to tell you if it fits.

 

[qsweet]

I have a 2310 with DV and notched transom. The boat came with a curved fiberglass splash guard that rises to about half way up the distance to the top of the transom. I ordered a second splashguard, turned it upside own, and fastened them together like a clam shell. They are fastened by stainless steel hinges that allow the top of the "clamshell" to be folded forward away from the engine so that the engine can be fully trimmed out of the water at the dock. When running I have bungee cords holding the top rearward. The motor can still be trimmed adequately for running or anchoring in shallow water even without moving the top half forward.

I used this to reduce noise from the original 2 stroke engine. Have never had a problem taking on water but have not anchored offshore. You could improve on this by using metal latches rather than bungees to help it stand up to the force of a wave, and adding some additional scupper holes near the deck on the lower half of the "clamshell" in case a wave went over the entire transom. Might work.

where did you order your second splash guard from?

 

[qsweet]

not a good picture of splash well but it is there.

That is exactly what im looking for. Where do i find one?

 

[BoatingEnthusiast]

Per Boat/US files, 20% of the boats that sink offshore are open or cutout transom boats.

I had one, my old Pro-Line. I made up a custom splashboard that was far enough ahead of the motor to allow the OB to trim up. I made up fixed STOPs so once UP it was a vertical 'wall' - it could not be pushed down further into the cockpit. But there was nothing but a bungee holding it in the UP position the other way (towards the motor), so if I took a HUGE wave over the gunnel and my motor was running, I could give it the gas and the force of the boat moving foward would hit that 'wall' and stretch the bungee, folding the splashboard down (towards the motor) to empty the cockpit FAST.

I never had to try it for 'real', but in some created test by filling the cockpit with water - it worked well . It was also removable, as the bottom 'hinge', adjacent to the floor on each side, were SS barrel bolts that could be retracted for easy removal. The bolt part just went into a drilled hole through the glass liner on each side. I never even put a reinforcement bushing around the hole, as in reality - there wasn't any load on them.

If/when anchored with any seas and wind, one should put their anchor rode to an anchor ball so the boat could drop off the anchor in SECONDS. And I'd either keep the OB running, if things were getting nasty ... don't wait until they're serious, as I would have been LONG GONE by then.

One needs to be cautious with cutout transom boats, the head Moderator of the Reel-Time website had such a boat, took one wave wrong (through the stern) whilst cod fishing, and the boat went down in seconds ... it had floatation, turned over turtle and rose back to the surface. Everyone survived, they lost some fishing gear, and the boat was totaled.

I myself once plucked 4 guys out of the rough seas one day when a smaller boat had a wave run right over it from the stern and sunk her. They would have died if I wasn't there; the water temps were in the mid 50s, and once they were in the water, they only had time to clutch whatever floated, as only 1 had a preserver on. When I went to pick them up, they were so cold they couldn't use their arms and legs and swim. One guy literally sank :shock: next to my boat and I pulled him up from 4' down underwater and going down ... by using a heavy rod with a jig attached, as I managed to hook it onto his jacket!

Still gives the chills to this day ...

Hey dale this is amazing ans something I've been thinking about how best to come up with. Any chance you have any photos you could share?

Per Boat/US files, 20% of the boats that sink offshore are open or cutout transom boats.

I had one, my old Pro-Line. I made up a custom splashboard that was far enough ahead of the motor to allow the OB to trim up. I made up fixed STOPs so once UP it was a vertical 'wall' - it could not be pushed down further into the cockpit. But there was nothing but a bungee holding it in the UP position the other way (towards the motor), so if I took a HUGE wave over the gunnel and my motor was running, I could give it the gas and the force of the boat moving foward would hit that 'wall' and stretch the bungee, folding the splashboard down (towards the motor) to empty the cockpit FAST.

I never had to try it for 'real', but in some created test by filling the cockpit with water - it worked well . It was also removable, as the bottom 'hinge', adjacent to the floor on each side, were SS barrel bolts that could be retracted for easy removal. The bolt part just went into a drilled hole through the glass liner on each side. I never even put a reinforcement bushing around the hole, as in reality - there wasn't any load on them.

If/when anchored with any seas and wind, one should put their anchor rode to an anchor ball so the boat could drop off the anchor in SECONDS. And I'd either keep the OB running, if things were getting nasty ... don't wait until they're serious, as I would have been LONG GONE by then.

One needs to be cautious with cutout transom boats, the head Moderator of the Reel-Time website had such a boat, took one wave wrong (through the stern) whilst cod fishing, and the boat went down in seconds ... it had floatation, turned over turtle and rose back to the surface. Everyone survived, they lost some fishing gear, and the boat was totaled.

I myself once plucked 4 guys out of the rough seas one day when a smaller boat had a wave run right over it from the stern and sunk her. They would have died if I wasn't there; the water temps were in the mid 50s, and once they were in the water, they only had time to clutch whatever floated, as only 1 had a preserver on. When I went to pick them up, they were so cold they couldn't use their arms and legs and swim. One guy literally sank :shock: next to my boat and I pulled him up from 4' down underwater and going down ... by using a heavy rod with a jig attached, as I managed to hook it onto his jacket!

Still gives the chills to this day ...

Per Boat/US files, 20% of the boats that sink offshore are open or cutout transom boats.

I had one, my old Pro-Line. I made up a custom splashboard that was far enough ahead of the motor to allow the OB to trim up. I made up fixed STOPs so once UP it was a vertical 'wall' - it could not be pushed down further into the cockpit. But there was nothing but a bungee holding it in the UP position the other way (towards the motor), so if I took a HUGE wave over the gunnel and my motor was running, I could give it the gas and the force of the boat moving foward would hit that 'wall' and stretch the bungee, folding the splashboard down (towards the motor) to empty the cockpit FAST.

I never had to try it for 'real', but in some created test by filling the cockpit with water - it worked well . It was also removable, as the bottom 'hinge', adjacent to the floor on each side, were SS barrel bolts that could be retracted for easy removal. The bolt part just went into a drilled hole through the glass liner on each side. I never even put a reinforcement bushing around the hole, as in reality - there wasn't any load on them.

If/when anchored with any seas and wind, one should put their anchor rode to an anchor ball so the boat could drop off the anchor in SECONDS. And I'd either keep the OB running, if things were getting nasty ... don't wait until they're serious, as I would have been LONG GONE by then.

One needs to be cautious with cutout transom boats, the head Moderator of the Reel-Time website had such a boat, took one wave wrong (through the stern) whilst cod fishing, and the boat went down in seconds ... it had floatation, turned over turtle and rose back to the surface. Everyone survived, they lost some fishing gear, and the boat was totaled.

I myself once plucked 4 guys out of the rough seas one day when a smaller boat had a wave run right over it from the stern and sunk her. They would have died if I wasn't there; the water temps were in the mid 50s, and once they were in the water, they only had time to clutch whatever floated, as only 1 had a preserver on. When I went to pick them up, they were so cold they couldn't use their arms and legs and swim. One guy literally sank :shock: next to my boat and I pulled him up from 4' down underwater and going down ... by using a heavy rod with a jig attached, as I managed to hook it onto his jacket!

Still gives the chills to this day ...

This is a great idea and been trying to come up with a similar solution for my boat. Any chance you have photos you could share so I could get a better idea of how to make it.

 

[warthog5]

You have brought back a 10+yr old thread....LOL

 

[BoatingEnthusiast]

Per Boat/US files, 20% of the boats that sink offshore are open or cutout transom boats.

I had one, my old Pro-Line. I made up a custom splashboard that was far enough ahead of the motor to allow the OB to trim up. I made up fixed STOPs so once UP it was a vertical 'wall' - it could not be pushed down further into the cockpit. But there was nothing but a bungee holding it in the UP position the other way (towards the motor), so if I took a HUGE wave over the gunnel and my motor was running, I could give it the gas and the force of the boat moving foward would hit that 'wall' and stretch the bungee, folding the splashboard down (towards the motor) to empty the cockpit FAST.

I never had to try it for 'real', but in some created test by filling the cockpit with water - it worked well . It was also removable, as the bottom 'hinge', adjacent to the floor on each side, were SS barrel bolts that could be retracted for easy removal. The bolt part just went into a drilled hole through the glass liner on each side. I never even put a reinforcement bushing around the hole, as in reality - there wasn't any load on them.

If/when anchored with any seas and wind, one should put their anchor rode to an anchor ball so the boat could drop off the anchor in SECONDS. And I'd either keep the OB running, if things were getting nasty ... don't wait until they're serious, as I would have been LONG GONE by then.

One needs to be cautious with cutout transom boats, the head Moderator of the Reel-Time website had such a boat, took one wave wrong (through the stern) whilst cod fishing, and the boat went down in seconds ... it had floatation, turned over turtle and rose back to the surface. Everyone survived, they lost some fishing gear, and the boat was totaled.

I myself once plucked 4 guys out of the rough seas one day when a smaller boat had a wave run right over it from the stern and sunk her. They would have died if I wasn't there; the water temps were in the mid 50s, and once they were in the water, they only had time to clutch whatever floated, as only 1 had a preserver on. When I went to pick them up, they were so cold they couldn't use their arms and legs and swim. One guy literally sank :shock: next to my boat and I pulled him up from 4' down underwater and going down ... by using a heavy rod with a jig attached, as I managed to hook it onto his jacket!

Still gives the chills to this day ...

Hey dale this is amazing and something I've been thinking about how best to come up with. Any chance you have any photos you could share?

You have brought back a 10+yr old thread....LOL

Yeah hoping I'll get lucky and the member is still around. I'm rebuilding my notched transom. Was going to close it but changed my mind so looking for alternative ways of keeping water out.

 

[Andy]

Hey dale this is amazing and something I've been thinking about how best to come up with. Any chance you have any photos you could share?

Yeah hoping I'll get lucky and the member is still around. I'm rebuilding my notched transom. Was going to close it but changed my mind so looking for alternative ways of keeping water out.

Hi Boating Enthusiast, First, welcome to ClassicParker! I see you just came onboard.... Like Warthog mentioned, this is an old thread (and yet, still full of good information)... The person you mentioned is Dale. He's the Founder/Originator of ClassicParker, but he has not been 'active' in many years....

 

[PastTheBarb]

Moving as much gear forward helps a lot, ice chests tackle boxes full of lead, anything. If Im drift fishing and I see a big wake coming I go to the bow.
Thats a big help too.

 

[BoatingEnthusiast]

Hi Boating Enthusiast, First, welcome to ClassicParker! I see you just came onboard.... Like Warthog mentioned, this is an old thread (and yet, still full of good information)... The person you mentioned is Dale. He's the Founder/Originator of ClassicParker, but he has not been 'active' in many years....

Thank you guys i appreciate it. I have a general idea of how he had his installed that I think I'll try. Was looking into sex bolts and thinking of adding the female part inside the transom with a backing plate so that way I can change out the male screw in the future as it rusts and etc without worrying too much about the threads inside. What do y'all think?

 

[warthog5]

Build a custom splashwell....Thats the only way I know.....In our area Gulf Coast [Pensacola] The full transom is the way to go if your going offshore.