parkerjon
Well-known member
I saw a post a while ago about a water pump replacement requesting info. Just replaced the water pump on my f115. I've done this several times on other motors but this is the first time for the 2003 f115 (600 hours). I'll try and attach pictures but may need some help with that.
Impeller - good condition, replaced
Impeller Housing Cup - good condition, replaced
Wear Plate - worn, replaced
Impeller Housing - Re-Used
Also replaced spacer, collar, grommet, gasket, and wave washer
All bolts came off without a hitch, The woodruff key (in my opinion, always a pain in the butt) needed a very light heat and prying to get out. (cant say watch the heat enough,luke more, oil seals are below)Anyone have an easier way to get the key out let me know.
I've seldom found an impellar that actually needed replacement. Although, when I take things apart, I go with new parts. I get most of my parts online, but like to give my local service dealer some of the business (even though their parts a redicously expensive) because they will often answer some nagging questions when you make a purchase. Pays off in the end.
Dissasembly
1) I recommended a manufacturer tech manual for your engine
2) I had to remove 7 bolts to drop the lower unit. I removed the zinc trim tab to replace, prop was already removed for the winter. Remember the drive shaft is long so you need to tilt the engine to slide the lower unit off.
3) Remove the impellar housing (4 bolts), rember theres two o rings there you will need to replace when going back together, 1 big, 1 small
4) Clean, inspect the impeller housing, replace the rubber gromet and spacer on the discharge tube of the housing. I use a little silicone grease so its slides on the copper tube easier when putting back together
5) Remove the impeller housing cup, I always replace this.
6) Next on the shaft is a collar and spacer, might have to pry up on the collar, I replace them both anyways.
7) Remove the 2 flat washers along with the wave washer in the middle, I replace these to.
8) Take of the impeller and save it, no your not going to reuse it, we will get back to the old impeller during reassembly.
10) Now my nemis, the woodruff key, Got to get it out, I could use some help on this one, I apply very little heat to the shaft and gently pry. Be very careful with the heat, oil seals are below (luke warm at most).
11) Remove the wear plate and gasket undern the wear plate.
Assembly
Clean everything up. Use a very fine emery paper to clean the shaft up where the impeller is fitted.
1) Apply very light coating of gasket seal to bottom of gasket
2) Slide on the wear plate
3) Press in the woodruff key,
4) put a light coat of silicone grease on the top of the wear plate, also on the impeller
5) slide the new impeller on over the key, only goes on one way
6) put on a flat wahser,wave washer,another flat washer in that order
7) next is the plastic spacer and collar, careful with the plasic spacer, I've cracked them before.
8) now get the old impeller and put it on the shaft backwards and apply light even pressure. You need to compress the plastic spacer and collar. The specified gap between them on my engine is 80 thousandths. After compressing remove the old impeller.
9) Now the impeller housing cup goes on. You need to fit it over the impeller, meaning you have to bend the blades of the impeller to fit inside the housing cup. I always make sure I bend the blades the correct way, (the way they were bent on the the old impeller. I've been told if you do it backwards, the blades will find the right way. I wouldn't leave this to chance. Anyone chime in if you know more. This is easier with 4 hands but can be done with 2 and a little frustration.
10) Put the little and big o-rings onto the impeller housing with some silccone grease to hold them in place. slide the housing down to the housing cup. You need to align the housing cup to the housing. Theres a little hole on the housing and housing cup to align, turning the shaft will facilitate this. The tabs on top of the housing cup will fit into the housing when the little holes are lined up. Feel underneith with your fingers to make sure the o-rings are still in the right position. You can look under and see to just before you bring the housing down. Wiggle the housing into place so the housing cup top tabs fit into the housing.
11) Tighten the four bolts on the housing. I use a little locktite on the threads.
12) Replace the space and gromet in the water pump housing discharge if you havent already.
Clean the splines on the drive shaft and shift spline (little one) apply some yamalube to the spines, not to much (tech manual says use moly disulfide oil, I've always used yamalube and my splines lhave always looked great).
Clean up the copper water tube on the engine.
Put the lower unit back on carefully, you will have to rotate the shaft a little to align the splines. The copper tube should go into the water pump housing discharge.
Lower unit bolts, I've read some discussion on the bolts, I only had a problem once on an older motor getting them out, Had to use an easyout. I've read people using anti-seize and what not, if it works for you thats great, I go the opposite way and put on a small amount of locktite. That being said, I do loosen and clean the bolts one at a time every other season.
Anyone with other reccomendations please chime in.
Old Assembly After Removing Lower Unit
Close Up Prior to Disassembly
Housing Cup Coming Off
Wear Plate and Old Impeller
Put Back Together
Impeller - good condition, replaced
Impeller Housing Cup - good condition, replaced
Wear Plate - worn, replaced
Impeller Housing - Re-Used
Also replaced spacer, collar, grommet, gasket, and wave washer
All bolts came off without a hitch, The woodruff key (in my opinion, always a pain in the butt) needed a very light heat and prying to get out. (cant say watch the heat enough,luke more, oil seals are below)Anyone have an easier way to get the key out let me know.
I've seldom found an impellar that actually needed replacement. Although, when I take things apart, I go with new parts. I get most of my parts online, but like to give my local service dealer some of the business (even though their parts a redicously expensive) because they will often answer some nagging questions when you make a purchase. Pays off in the end.
Dissasembly
1) I recommended a manufacturer tech manual for your engine
2) I had to remove 7 bolts to drop the lower unit. I removed the zinc trim tab to replace, prop was already removed for the winter. Remember the drive shaft is long so you need to tilt the engine to slide the lower unit off.
3) Remove the impellar housing (4 bolts), rember theres two o rings there you will need to replace when going back together, 1 big, 1 small
4) Clean, inspect the impeller housing, replace the rubber gromet and spacer on the discharge tube of the housing. I use a little silicone grease so its slides on the copper tube easier when putting back together
5) Remove the impeller housing cup, I always replace this.
6) Next on the shaft is a collar and spacer, might have to pry up on the collar, I replace them both anyways.
7) Remove the 2 flat washers along with the wave washer in the middle, I replace these to.
8) Take of the impeller and save it, no your not going to reuse it, we will get back to the old impeller during reassembly.
10) Now my nemis, the woodruff key, Got to get it out, I could use some help on this one, I apply very little heat to the shaft and gently pry. Be very careful with the heat, oil seals are below (luke warm at most).
11) Remove the wear plate and gasket undern the wear plate.
Assembly
Clean everything up. Use a very fine emery paper to clean the shaft up where the impeller is fitted.
1) Apply very light coating of gasket seal to bottom of gasket
2) Slide on the wear plate
3) Press in the woodruff key,
4) put a light coat of silicone grease on the top of the wear plate, also on the impeller
5) slide the new impeller on over the key, only goes on one way
6) put on a flat wahser,wave washer,another flat washer in that order
7) next is the plastic spacer and collar, careful with the plasic spacer, I've cracked them before.
8) now get the old impeller and put it on the shaft backwards and apply light even pressure. You need to compress the plastic spacer and collar. The specified gap between them on my engine is 80 thousandths. After compressing remove the old impeller.
9) Now the impeller housing cup goes on. You need to fit it over the impeller, meaning you have to bend the blades of the impeller to fit inside the housing cup. I always make sure I bend the blades the correct way, (the way they were bent on the the old impeller. I've been told if you do it backwards, the blades will find the right way. I wouldn't leave this to chance. Anyone chime in if you know more. This is easier with 4 hands but can be done with 2 and a little frustration.
10) Put the little and big o-rings onto the impeller housing with some silccone grease to hold them in place. slide the housing down to the housing cup. You need to align the housing cup to the housing. Theres a little hole on the housing and housing cup to align, turning the shaft will facilitate this. The tabs on top of the housing cup will fit into the housing when the little holes are lined up. Feel underneith with your fingers to make sure the o-rings are still in the right position. You can look under and see to just before you bring the housing down. Wiggle the housing into place so the housing cup top tabs fit into the housing.
11) Tighten the four bolts on the housing. I use a little locktite on the threads.
12) Replace the space and gromet in the water pump housing discharge if you havent already.
Clean the splines on the drive shaft and shift spline (little one) apply some yamalube to the spines, not to much (tech manual says use moly disulfide oil, I've always used yamalube and my splines lhave always looked great).
Clean up the copper water tube on the engine.
Put the lower unit back on carefully, you will have to rotate the shaft a little to align the splines. The copper tube should go into the water pump housing discharge.
Lower unit bolts, I've read some discussion on the bolts, I only had a problem once on an older motor getting them out, Had to use an easyout. I've read people using anti-seize and what not, if it works for you thats great, I go the opposite way and put on a small amount of locktite. That being said, I do loosen and clean the bolts one at a time every other season.
Anyone with other reccomendations please chime in.
Old Assembly After Removing Lower Unit
Close Up Prior to Disassembly
Housing Cup Coming Off
Wear Plate and Old Impeller
Put Back Together
The reason your close-ups did not come into focus is probably because that your camera needs to be in "macro mode" for close-ups. This may be indicated by a flower symbol on your camera's dislay as you scroll through the modes. This may allow you to focus within inches.
