Weight considerations: repowering a 98' 1800?

[SamR]

Well it's finally time to bury my original 1998 Johnson 115 FICHT (yes, it is one of the models that didn't blow up!). Looking to repower with a Yamaha four stroke, adding 67# for a 115HP and 168# for a 150HP. I emailed Parker to see if the additional weight was within spec for the hull and they said that so long as the deck self bails I am fine. Both of my batteries are in the stern and with two guys back there as well it has never been an issue. Especially if I move the bats into the console as planned, I should be good to go with the 150. Any thoughts on the additional weight?

Also, what am I looking at for work on the console with the new/different gauges and controls?

Many thanks,
Sam

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

Sam, I'm in the middle of a re-power now (as in, I'm still waiting for the motor I ordered in Sept) Not sure about any weight issues, but the Yamaha 150 seems quite heavy (487lbs?). Batteries in the console-. Regarding the console work...you will have holes to fill. The new gear probably won't fit. My dealer was going to slap starboard and use that to cut new holes in. I said that I would take care of prepping the console myself. I have new plugs cut and coated and will be glassing them in shortly, along with a fresh layer of gelcoat. I got the hole templates from my dealer and will lay them out to see what works for me. The good thing about the wait time is the boat gets a nice cleaning and makeover before the new motor comes!

 

[Reel Rebel]

@SamR How is the 150 performing and have you had any issues with the weight?

@Puck-n-Fish Can you send pics of your console makeover?

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

Can you send pics of your console makeover?

Clean and simple!

 

[Bodick93]

Are you able to reword your title to include the F150?
Also, if you are sure of the exact weight differences (including oil tank), just test with whatever you have. Add the weight of your favorite 168 pound buddy right on the transom. At rest would be the biggest concern I imagine. If you are feet dry before battery move, it takes the time pressure off. A wet floor is a pia. My buddies SV2100 SeaPro is like that.

 

[warthog5]

Not sure about any weight issues, but the Yamaha 150 seems quite heavy (487lbs?).

All one has to do is look at the spec's on the Factory site.

Suzuki fills the nitch that Yamaha leaves behind with a DF-140 at a much lighter weight than a 150Hp.

 

[John D.]

Tohatsu is the lightest 140 and probably very competitive on price and quality.

 

[Longislandfish]

All one has to do is look at the spec's on the Factory site.

Suzuki fills the nitch that Yamaha leaves behind with a DF-140 at a much lighter weight than a 150Hp.

I think it’s the best bang, especially with lean burn. It’s basically a souped up 115hp motor. For the money, I believe 12-14k rigged it’s hard to beat, looks beautiful in white and has the option if I’m not mistaken for flyby wire, which would be my choice anyhow.

Can swing bigger prop too. I can’t see how anyone could justify the 150 when this is available, I’d expect this to push a 1801 along in low 40s depending on loads. If only there was a way to add a bracket and close the transom I think the 1801 would be a perfect compromise for all tasks.

Contemplating fabricating a hull extension bracket so that I can close the transom and provide flotation and buoyancy as well as extending running surface, could be a bad ass improvement for the ultimate 1801 platform.

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

I believe 12-14k rigged

I have the Fly-By-Wire. Mine was slightly over that $ but well worth it.

I’d expect this to push a 1801 along in low 40s

40MPH on the button @ 6100 with the stock Aluminum 3X14X21.

 

[warthog5]

The Fly by wire model is the DF-140BG

Contemplating fabricating a hull extension bracket so that I can close the transom and provide flotation and buoyancy as well as extending running surface, could be a bad ass improvement for the ultimate 1801 platform.

Get THAT out of your head Now. That Hull is to short for a Bracket. A 22ftr is borderline for a bracket.

 

[camron]

I think it’s the best bang, especially with lean burn. It’s basically a souped up 115hp motor. For the money, I believe 12-14k rigged it’s hard to beat, looks beautiful in white and has the option if I’m not mistaken for flyby wire, which would be my choice anyhow.

Can swing bigger prop too. I can’t see how anyone could justify the 150 when this is available, I’d expect this to push a 1801 along in low 40s depending on loads. If only there was a way to add a bracket and close the transom I think the 1801 would be a perfect compromise for all tasks.

Contemplating fabricating a hull extension bracket so that I can close the transom and provide flotation and buoyancy as well as extending running surface, could be a bad ass improvement for the ultimate 1801 platform.

Check out the hull truth. commuter boats did a hull extension on a 17 Parker. Cool project to read through.

 

[camron]

I have the Fly-By-Wire. Mine was slightly over that $ but well worth it.

40MPH on the button @ 6100 with the stock Aluminum 3X14X21.

My 1999 hit 40 with the df140.

I figure in a few years my current 1801 will get the fly by wire 140. My Yamaha only has 600 hours on it now.

 

[reellucky18]

just weighing in with my experience here.

I have a 2006 1801 that I repowered with a 150 4 stoke Yamaha & I typically cruise between 25-30 mph with a top speed/WOT at 44 mph. I have a 17 pitch yamaha prop. That 44 mph is fully loaded with full gas, 2-200lb guys, two coolers & all fishing gear. I do have trim tabs and I do not have a t-top.

IMO, these hull designs aren’t meant for super fast speeds & I find it gets a little squirrelly above 40mph.

When I cruise @25-30 mph I am getting 3.5 mpg.

Hope this helps.

 

[Longislandfish]

Check out the hull truth. commuter boats did a hull extension on a 17 Parker. Cool project to read through.

Yes. That’s were I got the inspiration. I see all these 20ft sea crafts brackets with closed transoms, they are lighter then the Parker and have the same overall length, in fact the sea craft 20 may be smaller. They have less beam forward and steeper deadrise in stern but the hulls ride fine brackets after raising the floor up etc. I think a fabricated bracket that matches the planning surface would work. He demonstrated it perfectly. I wouldn’t glass it on, but make a mold layup and then bolt it to transom with the scupper and drain plug extended aft. I bet the boat would run awesome and have ability to close the transom and cap for more deck space. Just my 2 dents

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

I find it gets a little squirrelly above 40mph

My thoughts exactly! I'm not comfortable WOT unless it's perfectly flat.

 

[warthog5]

I think a fabricated bracket that matches the planning surface would work.

That's Not a Bracket..... It is a Hull Extension.

Having done my research... AND actually done it... I still stand by my first input.

This started life as a '73 231 Mako.