What's the best way to make my new 2320 Parker w/F300... slower?

[Swatski]

What I really mean is, I want to develop higher RPM at lower speeds for running in rough conditions.

I run completely stock and my numbers are exactly as reported here by others for his boat:

On my 2320 w single 300 Yamaha factory provided Reliance prop: my minimal planning speed is 3800 rpm at 21 mph.
Her best cruise is 42-4400rpm’s at 31-34 mph.
But sometimes I just got to let her eat at 5500rpm and 45 mph and WOT is 5900 at 49.8mph

My numbers w/ the F300 and factory prop (SWS2 15.5 x 17) are the same as above, posted by @sydngoose. The setup is PERFECT for flat water. I would not want to change a thing when I'm in protected waters. These Yamaha motors seem to like revving high, I find 4,200-4,800 RPM to be the best bandwidth - and where I like to cruise. Anything below 4,000 sounds rough and not as happy, other than in completely smooth water.

The thing is, in order for me to keep boating in the ocean and to stay married, I need to drop about 10mph in this power band of 4,200-4,800 RPM.

For ocean trips, 30+mph in anything 2ft+ waves with short period (which is pretty much the norm where we are) does not work for my family.

What is the best prop to get me from 30mph at 4,200 RPM down to 20-25mph? I'm pretty sure I want 4 blade.
At least for now, I want to leave the motor hanging in the lowest position, as it comes from factory, and no PT.

I read every thread and post on this topic.

The 17p Rev 4 Mercury seems to be one favorite that may fit the bill, from what I can tell.
the Enertia ECO 18" has also been noted.

I would appreciate any first hand experience with those, or any other.

As an aside, the Flo torque SSR SD hub should work, and I believe the F300 issues with 4 blade props have been resolved with a new prop seal, but I could be wrong.

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[GoodChance]

Smaller motor.

I agree with you. The F300 is a great motor in flat seas but not so great in seas over 2ft and you want to cruise at 17-20mph without getting beat-up. This hull used to come standard with a 200hp Yamaha OX66 2-stroke outboard. Then a 225. Then a 250. In rougher seas, a 200hp is more than enough but somewhere along the way, owners wanted to go faster. Enter the 300. So a dilemma developed..... do you want to go faster in calm seas or comfortable in rough seas?

Now that you have a F300, the best "fix" to slow down would be a smaller pitch Rev4. I'd try a 17" Rev4. Maybe even a 16" if such an animal is available since the F300 has a 1.75:1 gear instead of the 2:1 of the 3.3l engine from Yamaha.

 

[Kurt]

Same setup and have the stock 17 SWS and a 17 Rev 4 that has been changed to a 16. Rev 4 is more responsive and able to hold plane at lower speeds like you are wanting. Top end is low 40s, mileage is worse. Both props are good for different applications.

 

[Swatski]

Same setup and have the stock 17 SWS and a 17 Rev 4 that has been changed to a 16. Rev 4 is more responsive and able to hold plane at lower speeds like you are wanting. Top end is low 40s, mileage is worse. Both props are good for different applications.

Thank you guys! Great info and the confirmation I was hoping for. Much appreciated.

Sounds like the Rev 4 in 16" is the winner.

@Kurt - any issues with prop chatter or any other, using the Rev 4 prop? Did you go with the Flo torque SSR SD?

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[Swatski]

Smaller motor.

I agree with you. The F300 is a great motor in flat seas but not so great in seas over 2ft and you want to cruise at 17-20mph without getting beat-up. This hull used to come standard with a 200hp Yamaha OX66 2-stroke outboard. Then a 225. Then a 250. In rougher seas, a 200hp is more than enough but somewhere along the way, owners wanted to go faster. Enter the 300. So a dilemma developed..... do you want to go faster in calm seas or comfortable in rough seas?

Now that you have a F300, the best "fix" to slow down would be a smaller pitch Rev4. I'd try a 17" Rev4. Maybe even a 16" if such an animal is available since the F300 has a 1.75:1 gear instead of the 2:1 of the 3.3l engine from Yamaha.

I don't mind carrying a spare prop.

Great advise; now I just need to figure out the hub and make sure my prop seal is the correct type for switching to Rev 4.

I may give these guys at "Prop Gods" a call. Unless anyone knows anyone in the NY/NJ area who's reputable and can help.

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[grouperjim]

Easiest.....move weight forward, retard throttle.

Easy and cheap.....go slower, level on plane by adding greater hydro-mechanical lift between the transom and motor foot.

Expensive and least effective......increase stern lift with additional prop surface area such as a rev4 or larger 3 blade with less pitch.

 

[Andy]

I don't mind carrying a spare prop.

Great advise; now I just need to figure out the hub and make sure my prop seal is the correct type for switching to Rev 4.

I may give these guys at "Prop Gods" a call. Unless anyone knows anyone in the NY/NJ area who's reputable and can help.

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Thank you all for a great post and great information!... I have a similar 'issue'. Same engine, but with a different boat. When trying to go slower, when the seas get sloppy, I fall off plane... So far my 'solution' has been to maintain speed, and get my butt kicked as I just keep busting on through it all. The boat can handle it, but it's getting to where it's 'losing the amusement-value' to those of us onboard! ☺....
I'm considering Seaspension pedestals, but the fact is, when it gets really 'sloppy' (y'all call it 'Sporty') I'm not sitting down; I'm standing up using my bent-legs and knees as shock absorbers....

 

[Swatski]

Easiest.....move weight forward, retard throttle.

Easy and cheap.....go slower, level on plane by adding greater mechanical lift between the transom and motor foot.

Expensive and least effective......increase stern lift with additional prop surface area such as a rev4 or larger 3 blade with less pitch.

I don't usually have much weight to move around, so I'm not really able to use that to my advantage.

My wife and kids love the rear seats - they basically occupy the stern bench, or sit on in bean bags, or those inflatable "bote" chairs - in the back. The difference in comfort level between the helm and the stern seating in this boat is so dramatic, it's almost hard to believe.

The F300 likes to rev high, it sounds like garbage disposal unit at lower revs especially if it's rough and it's pushing a lot of water at lower speeds/RPM below 4,000. It sounds great once it jumps into it's power band, 4,200+ RPM or so, but at that point the boat wants to go 30+ mph.

The tabs don't help much with that regard, they actually seem to induce a weird bow steer. I need to be able to go slower, but at higher RPM motor speeds - to get in the power band where the motor sounds great, yet I'm on plane but not going too fast. I feel this Parker of mine (it is a 2021 2320 SC) takes the waves best with no tabs, just the motor trimmed down all the way, I have it mounted in the lowest holes. Pushing the bow down with too much tab, or tabs plus permatrim, I would worry about burring it in an occasional rough wave. I don;t think the long pulpit would be too happy.

My current setup with the F300 and the SWS 17 is really fantastic in flat water. Planning is a bit slow, but that does not bother me as much, it's that I don't want to be doing 30+mph in 3ft seas - when I have company, anyway.

EDITED

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[Swatski]

Thank you all for a great post and great information!... I have a similar 'issue'. Same engine, but with a different boat. When trying to go slower, when the seas get sloppy, I fall off plane... So far my 'solution' has been to maintain speed, and get my butt kicked as I just keep busting on through it all. The boat can handle it, but it's getting to where it's 'losing the amusement-value' to those of us onboard! ☺....
I'm considering Seaspension pedestals, but the fact is, when it gets really 'sloppy' (y'all call it 'Sporty') I'm not sitting down; I'm standing up using my bent-legs and knees as shock absorbers....

I did get the "premium" Parker captain's chair, with suspension. It is not the world's best but it does the job quite nicely.
My family takes pleasure in telling my how much the shock compresses and how much it travels (apparently - a lot) under my phat behind..., while they are enjoying a remarkably smooth ride in the rear.
There is a point though when the hull starts launching off of some larger waves - and that gets a little too "sporty", for them, even in the rear, lol.

Hence - my desire to have a go-to prop for "sporty" weather trips that would hold lower planning speeds at higher RPM - in the engine's happy power band.

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[A-K]

My 2320 w/300 yam-hammer. I have a secondary prop, 4 blade OFS4 R15. I use this sometimes in the ocean in the Pacific Northwest where we have **** weather even in summer. It puts the boat on plane at a low speed and I think it will achieve what you want.

I typically use it for pushing heavy tuna loads (400 pounds ice, 50 gallon bait tank full, 4 big guys. But the 4 blade helps out in the sloop too.

I also have 12x18 trim tabs, and permatrim (real one) this helps too. The permatrim will help with the porpising.

I have never understood why people want low HP outboards. Give me more cow bell !

 

[Kurt]

Rev 4 works completely fine and quiet with the internals you stated. A-K’s OSF4 R15 would also do what you want and would be significantly less expensive than buying a Rev 4 17P and having it reworked to a 16P.

 

[Swatski]

Just to be clear, the factory setup is the bomb, there is no doubt about it here.

That’s the beauty of this Parker, which frankly surprised me… I still seem to get 2mpg at WOT! Lol


Of course, that’s only in flat water and therefore not a real number, also reading of the pitot here; once the Parker hits 3fters offshore fuel economy becomes a totally different calculation.

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[big_tuna]

I think a 4 blade prop with permatrim would allow you to plane at lower speeds/RPMs.

 

[grouperjim]

I don't usually have much weight to move around......

My wife and kids love the rear seats.....

The F300 likes to rev high..... 4,200+ RPM or so, but at that point the boat wants to go 30+ mph.

The tabs don't help much.....takes the waves best with no tabs, just the motor trimmed down all the way,

My current setup with the F300 and the SWS 17......

Ditch the port a potty. Replace with 160qt cooler full of bagged ice all the way forward.

Put the stern folding bench seat in the nearest dumpster and never look back. Put a wedge bean bag or two up against the PH wall facing aft.

Yup. Most gas engines are designed to run 75 percent of max RPM which is 4500 rpm at fast cruise. Your engine is struggling at slow cruise because you don't have enough weight forward and or lift at the stern to ride level. FWIW a 2320 is designed to be a 25-28 MPH boat.

The original 12x12 tabs provided by Parker are pretty much worthless and cause a huge hit in fuel efficiency. 12Lx18w are what you need and this is mostly for additional hull planing surface area between the motor foot and transom.....only to be used to level the boat side to side.

SWSII 17p prop (1st choice) or the Rev4 17 will get the job done.

 

[GoodChance]

Agree with Jim ^^^^^. The 23 DV hull can certainly run 30-35mph in calm water, but in real world conditions, the hull performs best at 20-25 mph in seas over 2ft and 25-28 mph in seas 1ft or so. Match your motor and prop to the conditions you'll be running. There's no need for a F300 if you're regularly running in 2-3ft seas and lugging your engine at 3000 rpm.

 

[Swatski]

Thank you all!

I also heard back from Ken Reeves; ordered the Powertech OSF4 in 15 pitch from him, comes with a "cushion lok hub", so I should be good to go.

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[A-K]

Ditch the port a potty. Replace with 160qt cooler full of bagged ice all the way forward.

Put the stern folding bench seat in the nearest dumpster and never look back. Put a wedge bean bag or two up against the PH wall facing aft.

Yup. Most gas engines are designed to run 75 percent of max RPM which is 4500 rpm at fast cruise. Your engine is struggling at slow cruise because you don't have enough weight forward and or lift at the stern to ride level. FWIW a 2320 is designed to be a 25-28 MPH boat.

The original 12x12 tabs provided by Parker are pretty much worthless and cause a huge hit in fuel efficiency. 12Lx18w are what you need and this is mostly for additional hull planing surface area between the motor foot and transom.....only to be used to level the boat side to side.

SWSII 17p prop (1st choice) or the Rev4 17 will get the job done.

This is good info.

I use my 2320 more as a hard core fishing boat. But, I ditched that uncomfortable AF bench seat and replaced it with a forward facing pedestal with bucket, then mounted a yeti with cushion behind it to act as a jump seat. Way more comfortable. IMO the 2320 cabin needs a redesign.

 

[baker]

Thank you all!

I also heard back from Ken Reeves; ordered the Powertech OSF4 in 15 pitch from him, comes with a "cushion lok hub", so I should be good to go.

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I'm curious if Ken mentioned that you will still achieve the max rpm range at wot with that prop?

 

[Roccus]

Didn’t Parker make a few boats back in the day with a keel? That would solve the issue. I just moved into a 26’ Webber’s cove downeast boat. Cruises 25 through 3’ chop without really feeling it and burns only 6gph. The trade off of course is that in flat water I don’t go any faster and top speed is about 30 but you wouldn’t want to run it there for very long.

 

[DEHusker]

I had the Same exact issue with my 2501. I wanted better torque, better hole shot, and lower planning speed as well with my twin I-4 Yamaha 200s on my 2501. I flipped out the factory Yamaha three blades 18” for for Solas SS 4 15” blades. Wow! What a difference. Yes I lost about three mph off the top end but my engines are so much better now in so many ways. Cruise speed is effortless, hole shot is incredible. I cruise now at about 3800-4200 RPM to keep plane in rough stuff…..it is much higher in the torque curve. That’s running approximately 22 to 26 kn. Plus, with my four blades I actually get up to around 5900 RPM at full throttle. My three blades I can only get up to about 53 to 5400. prob slightly overpropped from the factory. (?fuel Econ?). My bow barely moves when I give it full throttle now and need no trim tabs to get on plane. It’s fantastic. I can have a heavy load and cruise in without any issues keeping speed or keeping on plane. In short it’s made it a different boat. I won’t ever go back to three blades with my set up.