What's the best way to make my new 2320 Parker w/F300... slower?

[warthog5]

stock 17 SWS and a 17 Rev 4 that has been changed to a 16.

It really is that simple.

You can have the pitch changed 2degrees lower or higher on a prop with no problems.... The cost will vary, But figure $100 Typically going down 1 degree will raise the engine speed by 200 RPM

 

[Swatski]

I'm curious if Ken mentioned that you will still achieve the max rpm range at wot with that prop?

I did not specifically ask that, it goes without being said. Achieving the top RPM with this prop should not be an issue, in fact I expect to be hitting the limiter. Whether or not at some point I would want to raise the limiter (to regain top speed) is another discussion. Probably not worth it while on factory warranty.

Basically, I'm looking for a prop to use as an equivalent of switching to a "lower gear" (or - low range) - to be used in rough conditions where the boat is pushed through chop at lower speeds; settled on the OSF4 in 15 for now based on advice I hear.

These Powertechs come with a very well reviewed cushion lok hub and Ken does returns (for a fee) if the thing does not work.

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[Swatski]

This is good info.

I use my 2320 more as a hard core fishing boat. But, I ditched that uncomfortable AF bench seat and replaced it with a forward facing pedestal with bucket, then mounted a yeti with cushion behind it to act as a jump seat. Way more comfortable. IMO the 2320 cabin needs a redesign.

If those cabins where more mid-ship I would say yes. Where it is, in the bow, it really is most appropriate for the helmsman only, there is just so much vertical movement when riding in anything even moderately rough, versus the stern which is planted firm and hardly moves - a super smooth ride there in my boat.
I generally don't want my passengers in the cabin on plane, other than in flat water, or at very slow speeds if caught in bad weather, etc.

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[Swatski]

It really is that simple.

You can have the pitch changed 2degrees lower or higher on a prop with no problems.... The cost will vary, But figure $100 Typically going down 1 degree will raise the engine speed by 200 RPM

I may try that next if the OSF4 does not work, but... been down this rabbit hole before many times, with propellers and (jet boat) impellers, it can be very involved.

Hoping for an easy solution - carrying just two props that I can swap at the dock in minutes. I guess I'll find out soon if it works for my new Parker.

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[Swatski]

Didn’t Parker make a few boats back in the day with a keel? That would solve the issue. I just moved into a 26’ Webber’s cove downeast boat. Cruises 25 through 3’ chop without really feeling it and burns only 6gph. The trade off of course is that in flat water I don’t go any faster and top speed is about 30 but you wouldn’t want to run it there for very long.

I really like the versatility of this boat, the DV my PArker uses provides just about the perfect compromise. In a boat I consider trailerable, a big factor for me.

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[dvdeluc]

This is good info.

I use my 2320 more as a hard core fishing boat. But, I ditched that uncomfortable AF bench seat and replaced it with a forward facing pedestal with bucket, then mounted a yeti with cushion behind it to act as a jump seat. Way more comfortable. IMO the 2320 cabin needs a redesign.

A-K - got any pics of the AF bench seat removal and the forward facing pedestal placement as I've been thing about doing the exact same thing for some time now thanks in advance

 

[A-K]

If those cabins where more mid-ship I would say yes. Where it is, in the bow, it really is most appropriate for the helmsman only, there is just so much vertical movement when riding in anything even moderately rough, versus the stern which is planted firm and hardly moves - a super smooth ride there in my boat.
I generally don't want my passengers in the cabin on plane, other than in flat water, or at very slow speeds if caught in bad weather, etc.

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Important to remember that there is no such thing as a perfect boat. It’s a game of compromise. I bought my 2320 because of the large fish deck, outboard power (Yamaha), big fuel tank for long runs, and the build reputation that Parker has. You most likely won’t have any serious issues, but probably have some small ones every so often.

My bracket developed 2 very minor cracks early on in its life. Most people would not have saw them, I used to be a welder/inspector so they caught my eye. Parker and the dealer stepped up big time and replaced under warranty no questions asked. The new one is more robust and has significant structure added to support the weight of the outboard.

 

[A-K]

A-K - got any pics of the AF bench seat removal and the forward facing pedestal placement as I've been thing about doing the exact same thing for some time now thanks in advance

A-K - got any pics of the AF bench seat removal and the forward facing pedestal placement as I've been thing about doing the exact same thing for some time now thanks in advance

nothing fancy. The new pedestal is a seapension. The yeti behind it now has a nice thick cushion to keep your butt happy. Way better then the bench seat.

removal was 6 screws on my 2016.

 

[Swatski]

my boat is 2.5 hours


nothing fancy. The new pedestal is a seapension. The yeti behind it now has a nice thick cushion to keep your butt happy. Way better then the bench seat.

removal was 6 screws on my 2016.

That is very nice!
I may do something like that down the road, possibly, depending on how we use the boat.

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[jamesd156]

I had the Same exact issue with my 2501. I wanted better torque, better hole shot, and lower planning speed as well with my twin I-4 Yamaha 200s on my 2501. I flipped out the factory Yamaha three blades 18” for for Solas SS 4 15” blades. Wow! What a difference. Yes I lost about three mph off the top end but my engines are so much better now in so many ways. Cruise speed is effortless, hole shot is incredible. I cruise now at about 3800-4200 RPM to keep plane in rough stuff…..it is much higher in the torque curve. That’s running approximately 22 to 26 kn. Plus, with my four blades I actually get up to around 5900 RPM at full throttle. My three blades I can only get up to about 53 to 5400. prob slightly overpropped from the factory. (?fuel Econ?). My bow barely moves when I give it full throttle now and need no trim tabs to get on plane. It’s fantastic. I can have a heavy load and cruise in without any issues keeping speed or keeping on plane. In short it’s made it a different boat. I won’t ever go back to three blades with my set up.

Im having the same problem with my 2820 was there someone that help with choosing the right prop for your boat. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GotChrist?]

Im having the same problem with my 2820 was there someone that help with choosing the right prop for your boat. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Email Ken at Propgods: Prop Gods

 

[jamesd156]

Email Ken at Propgods: Prop Gods

thanks for the info he was very helpful

 

[GotChrist?]

thanks for the info he was very helpful

Mind sharing what he advised?

 

[jamesd156]

Mind sharing what he advised?
[/QUOTE
He advised me that the ofs4 would be the best for my application. I’m usually loaded with 16 to 20 scuba tanks 400qt cooler with ice and 4 divers. I’m supposed to get better stern lift with slower planning speed for rough water. Going from 3 blade 15 1/4 x19 to the ofs4x17. 3 to 6 weeks for shipping right now. So we will see. I’ll update when I get them installed.

 

[sydngoose]

anyone who says this hull ( 2320) doesn't need a 300 never ran a 2320 with a 300. It's a weight distribution problem to be solved. Jim said it best above: Get a 160 quart cooler and put it between the berths. Fill it with ice. Either use it for your primary cooler or use it just to hold ice to transfer to your fish box as the fish come in and you pack them up.

On my 1st Parker ( 2120), I put a cooler between the berth, full of ice and the boat ran like a tank. I had one friend laugh at me, even make snarky remarks about bringing fish into the cabin, but hey, it worked great and made that hull center of gravity that much more sea worthy. It was out of the way, shaded, ice kept for ever: a simple and perfect plan.

I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I intend to get a cooler for between the berth of my 2320 as well. Finally, when you can, report back with specs on the performance of your new prop selected by Ken.

 

[A-K]

anyone who says this hull ( 2320) doesn't need a 300 never ran a 2320 with a 300. It's a weight distribution problem to be solved. Jim said it best above: Get a 160 quart cooler and put it between the berths. Fill it with ice. Either use it for your primary cooler or use it just to hold ice to transfer to your fish box as the fish come in and you pack them up.

Yes this...

also a smaller sized engine might fair well on a sea trial. But when your loaded heavy you’ll wish you had that 300. I’ve heard 250-300 are min size for the 2320.

 

[Swatski]

I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I intend to get a cooler for between the berth of my 2320 as well. Finally, when you can, report back with specs on the performance of your new prop selected by Ken.

Absolutely. Too much power is not the issue, this boat cruises effortlessly at 45+ mph, in flat water it just flyes. Loaded, or not.
I had 7 adults in the boat at some point this weekend, six of them were sitting as far back as possible in the rear.
I was almost surprised we could run under WOT at 45-48mph, in flat water in the channel, engine sounding awesome, with that effortless ring to it.




We had to slow down to ~30 mph once in the bay, and I needed to trim the engine and drop the tabs all the way to improve the ride. But, two hours later everyone was still smiling.
That was my "around Manhattan" tour number ~twenty or so in this boat.
The NY bay can get pretty rough, even Hudson can be choppy.


Right now, I'm thinking the 4 blade should really help the ride. I don't like using tabs.

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[wildman]

Absolutely. Too much power is not the issue, this boat cruises effortlessly at 45+ mph, in flat water it just flyes. Loaded, or not.
I had 7 adults in the boat at some point this weekend, six of them were sitting as far back as possible in the rear.
I was almost surprised we could run under WOT at 45-48mph, in flat water in the channel, engine sounding awesome, with that effortless ring to it.
View attachment 29586

View attachment 29587

We had to slow down to ~30 mph once in the bay, and I needed to trim the engine and drop the tabs all the way to improve the ride. But, two hours later everyone was still smiling.
That was my "around Manhattan" tour number ~twenty or so in this boat.
The NY bay can get pretty rough, even Hudson can be choppy.
View attachment 29588

Right now, I'm thinking the 4 blade should really help the ride. I don't like using tabs.

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4 blade Rev 4 made a big improvement for me 2005 2320 F250

 

[Just keep swimming]

Ok- so I have a similar issue- I have the dual console, twin 200s yamahas- factory props. Was out last weekend in Nantucket sound, 2-3ft, which can be no problem at 17-19 mph, my family and I slowed down to do the Hyannis to Edgartown crossing in 4-5 (at 13mph), but I am always trying to get on plane and then back off when we get slammed by these little f’ers… I “thought” it was just the way things go… but are you all saying I can buy props to eliminate my mother in law from needing traction every time we go out in the chop? How!?!

 

[Just keep swimming]

Or (and I hate to even ask this as an owner)…is it just poor hull design?