Other than being cheaper, why no chocks for when anchored? Looks like the bow light would get ripped off when the boat swings while anchored in a strong current/wind. Isn't this a problem for you SE owners? I'm buying one and considering having the dealer put line chocks on bow. Before I have it done I wanted some feedback on whether other SE owners find it to be a problem.
why no bow/anchor line chocks on 23 SE?
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GoodChance
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Yes. You will need chocks on the bow for the reason you just stated.
Its a very easy addition taking no more than 15-30 minutes from the time you get the tools out to putting them away.
Its a very easy addition taking no more than 15-30 minutes from the time you get the tools out to putting them away.
grouperjim
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GoodChance":2vk4d83z said:
Chris,
My 28 (no pulpit) has the same setup as the OP and I have noticed the anchor line will catch on bow nav light. I have thought of putting on a couple of chocks. I have also thought about replacing the bow nav light with a pop-up version just to keep things unobstructed.
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PKS1801
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Fly fisherman?
grouperjim
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captnick":1ofz6mr7 said:
Nick,
I have done a bit of research on the pop-up bow nav lights. The negative for the pop ups seems to be that the housing/bulbs while recessed, by design sit in a bowl of saltwater. Some brands seem to be sealed better than others but all have complaints of corrosion. Still on the fence.
That set up pictured is the same as what I had on my XL and was perfect for that boat. The bow cleat on the SE is fine. There's no pulpit on my SE to mount that set up so I'd still have the anchor line /bow light issue even if it had two large cleats(which IMO) would look terrible on that boat. Maybe you were thinking of the SL pilothouse.Megabyte":3tp829o6 said:
Thanks Jim, I considered the pop up for the clean look/line of the bow but the pop up light is more prone to issues like you have mentioned. There's not much that can go wrong with chocks(and I don't fly fish). FYI, a guy that works at the dealership has the pop up on his 23 SE which looks great but he said it's broken and has to be fixed/replaced already. He told me he would still rather have the pop up vs chocks because he feels it looks better. I'm surprised Parker makes the boat without considering this issue. The dealer stated a lot of people don't anchor. I had to laugh finding it agrouperjim":j1ttaw8h said:
foolish answer as it is a fishing boat(IMO). I do a lot of drift fishing but I still anchor fish also. I think it's going to be a great serious fishing boat and I really do love Parkers. This will be my third. I think sometimes boat manufacturers try to make a fishing boat a family boat too and end up with neither. With a few minor mods it will be near perfect for me. Now on to the rod holder/cup holders...
The dealer said his rigger would use Perko 0119DP6 chr chocks. These are 6 inch chocks which seems awfully big for the 23 SE. Dealer wants $115/each and they can be bought on Amazon for $54-57/each. I won't be having them install them. What size is right for the 23 SE. I'm thinking four inch?
My 1801 has a low profile light like this- http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/B ... ZOEALw_wcB
You can stand on it and the lines won’t catch on it.
You can stand on it and the lines won’t catch on it.
PKS1801
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6 inch is too big for that boat, it is almost 2 inches wide(1 7/8), and handles 1 inch line. 4 inch is plenty. Another advantage of bow chocks is that if you are anchoring in current, you can swing your boat to starboard by using the port chock, and vice versa. Comes in handy inshore if you want to get closer to the bank.
I have the same issue on my new 21SE. I'm not concerned about the bow light, but I do think a boat should have bow chocks. I'm planning on going with pop-up chocks to maintain the fish-ability. Does anyone know who makes the parker pop-up cleats? I'd like to match them if possible.
If anyone has done this and has advice on placement, I'd also really appreciate it.
If anyone has done this and has advice on placement, I'd also really appreciate it.
Thanks for your input. I'm going to research this further and make the change when I decide. Right now I'm anxious to get the boat to my home port. Taking delivery July 2. Dealer wanted $300+ to do the chocks.Philster":3ufnpey3 said:
There has been some mixing of terms in this thread which has led to confusion (at least on my part).
The terms chock and cleat seem to be used interchangeable.
The two items are totally different pieces of deck hardware.
A chock is a piece of deck hardware that locates dock lines.
A line is dropped into it to keep it was wandering and fowling on other pieces of deck hardware.
A cleat is a piece of deck hardware that secures a line to a dock or another substantial anchor point.
Parker uses 10" Herreshoff cleats on their 25' hulls, and I suspect they use the same ones on their 23' hulls, though a phone call to the factory could answer that question.
It is not always the size of the boat that determines size, it is the size of the line being handled.
Herreshoff cleats, as seen in the photo below, have a distinct 'coke bottle' shape that keeps the lines tight when wrapped and locked correctly.
You can buy cheaper 'square' cleats, but they will not lock your lines in like a Herreshoff will.
The size of your dock lines determine what size cleat you use.
A 10" cleat will easily handle 1/2" (or smaller) lines. If you are using lines larger than 1/2" on your 23, you will definitely need 10" cleats.
The photos below illustrate the items discussed:
The terms chock and cleat seem to be used interchangeable.
The two items are totally different pieces of deck hardware.
A chock is a piece of deck hardware that locates dock lines.
A line is dropped into it to keep it was wandering and fowling on other pieces of deck hardware.
A cleat is a piece of deck hardware that secures a line to a dock or another substantial anchor point.
Parker uses 10" Herreshoff cleats on their 25' hulls, and I suspect they use the same ones on their 23' hulls, though a phone call to the factory could answer that question.
It is not always the size of the boat that determines size, it is the size of the line being handled.
Herreshoff cleats, as seen in the photo below, have a distinct 'coke bottle' shape that keeps the lines tight when wrapped and locked correctly.
You can buy cheaper 'square' cleats, but they will not lock your lines in like a Herreshoff will.
The size of your dock lines determine what size cleat you use.
A 10" cleat will easily handle 1/2" (or smaller) lines. If you are using lines larger than 1/2" on your 23, you will definitely need 10" cleats.
The photos below illustrate the items discussed:
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nicknotsebastian
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captnick":3jk6xwyy said:
always had a pop up bow light on my 2002 23 se (pop up everything - cleats etc)... never had any problem. pop up bow cleat behind the pop up bow light. like the flush rail 360 cuz we drift a lot with multiple lines out and anything gone a little slack hooks up and the line straitens out across the rail in any number of directions...
i fly fish too but even on other boats i find using a good basket solves most rail hardware issues along with any deck, gunwale, gear, companion, type line issues.
Thanks for the vote for the pop up bow light. I'm still weighing options. Picking boat up from dealer July 2 and taking her on a 50 mile shakedown run to the slip. Before I take her back for the ten hour check up/oil change I'll decide.nicknotsebastian":1g5gq59c said:
