Windlass Identification and Assistance

[Postal719]

We are finally finishing up our winter Maintenace and did a sea trial yesterday to test the new props, permatrims and auto pilot. Everything ran bitchin! Then we tested the windlass.....It makes a clicking noise and does nothing. This is my first windlass, so I may be doing something stupid, or it may be broken. I dug through all of the manuals that came with the boat and the windlass one is missing in the bunch. Furthermore, it has no identification on it whatsoever. I am thinking it is a Lewmar H700 but am not certain. The control switch in the cabin does say Lewmar. It also has two controls on the bow without branding. Can anyone identify this bad boy or give me a tip on how to determine the make and model? I need to read the manual to learn the operating instructions and see if I can rebuild it if needed.

Additionally, if there is a step I could be missing in order to operate the darn thing, I am all ears.

Photos attached.

Thanks!

 

[warthog5]

Name Brand..... "Bada Highspeed Windlass" CHINA knock off

Sounds like you don't have Proper Voltage there.... Or a Bad Relay​

https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Bada-windlasses-from-Whittworths?page=1

 

[Postal719]

Thanks for the reply. I found this gem while searching the internet. It is the same unit.

https://www.five-oceans.com/product...pe-horizontal-600-watts-12v-dc-fo3930-fo-3930

I also heard back from Parker, and they only installed Lewmar at that time. I think someone replaced the Lewmar unit with this POS. This is probably why the fuse says Lewmar but the windlass has no branding. I found a couple reviews online, and they are not good. It looks like I need to tear into it and see if it can be salvaged for the upcoming season.

 

[moklodge01]

There is a circuit breaker for the windlass back near the battery switch. This is probably tripped into the "off" position. Try resetting it. It's there to trip when overloaded but also to disable the windlass to prevent accidental deployment when not being used. It exhibits the exact symptoms you described when the breaker is tripped off.

 

[moklodge01]

I also found that same windlass you have on AliExpress. So it's a Lewmar knockoff.

 

[Postal719]

I also found that same windlass you have on AliExpress. So it's a Lewmar knockoff.

Nice find. It's official, someone put a knockoff on an otherwise well spec'd boat. I'll try locating the breaker (maybe they didn't use the original Lewmar one on the dash) and try and test the relay.

 

[warthog5]

It exhibits the exact symptoms you described when the breaker is tripped off.

.It makes a clicking noise and does nothing.

If the Breaker has tripped, Or the Master Switch is OFF .... There is no Power and therefore there will be no clicking when the switch is hit.
Where I would start is with the Relay.... The "Clicking" is the piston on the relay actuating.... But if it's not making good contact.... They will be no power to the windless itself.


Speaking of Master Switch. Here again.... All switches are OFF.... Yet the Relay was wired direct to one of the batteries and "Started" to show corrosion on a 1 1/2yr old boat. So a Master ON/OFF switch was installed for the windless. This is on a boat I have here now.

On page 14 will show you a drawing. https://www.lewmar.com/sites/defaul...ual-T2388 Lewmar Pro Windlass Issue 3 WEB.pdf

With someones help pushing the UP/Down button... You should be able to see if the relay operates correctly. The small wires hooked to the Male spades are the primary circuit. That activates the internal plunger....This then allows high amperage whith the large cables to travel to the windless itself.

 

[pelagic2530]

If the Breaker has tripped, Or the Master Switch is OFF .... There is no Power and therefore there will be no clicking when the switch is hit.
Where I would start is with the Relay.... The "Clicking" is the piston on the relay actuating.... But if it's not making good contact.... They will be no power to the windless itself.


Speaking of Master Switch. Here again.... All switches are OFF.... Yet the Relay was wired direct to one of the batteries and "Started" to show corrosion on a 1 1/2yr old boat. So a Master ON/OFF switch was installed for the windless. This is on a boat I have here now.

On page 14 will show you a drawing. https://www.lewmar.com/sites/defaul...ual-T2388 Lewmar Pro Windlass Issue 3 WEB.pdf

With someones help pushing the UP/Down button... You should be able to see if the relay operates correctly. The small wires hooked to the Male spades are the primary circuit. That activates the internal plunger....This then allows high amperage whith the large cables to travel to the windless itself.

The relays should function as long as there’s control power, correct?

On my installation, the windlass power cables run from the battery switches at the stern, with a resettable breaker right after the switch. The control power for the dash switch, going to the relays at the bow, comes from the fuse panel behind the dash. So in theory, if the control power is coming from the dash, the relays will “click” open and closed, but if the breaker is open there won’t be any power to the winch, no?

I’ll admit that I haven’t tried it

 

[Postal719]

Update. We did some trouble shooting today, and the windlass was clicking but not working, as expected. We tested the 2 older batteries that were not replaced last go around (house batteries), and they turned to crap. Hooked up a small generator to my shore power, the boat is out of the water for maintenance, and the windlass worked great. Stoked! We ran all of the line out and have about 70 feet of chain and 130 of rope. Also the drain hole was full of junk and holding water. Stupid design but fixed that too. It was a very productive after work session.

We are gonna replace the other 2 batteries, do some clean up and install the freshly redone bolsters. After that, she goes back in for the the season.

Let's go!

 

[warthog5]

You START with the Obvious.... Condition of Batteries is ALWAYS #1.