Winterizing for the first time...

[Ryan C]

Hey guys,

In the next week or so I'll be winterizing my boat for the first time. This is my plan. Does anyone have anything they can offer?

My boat is a 2520. Has a 7.4l Volvo Penta I/O with a Duoprop out-drive.

I live in New England and there is potential to have extend freezing streaks.

Change oil.
Change oil filter.
Change Fuel filter.
Fog engine (with what?)
Remove out drive and store in my basement. (how do i cover the hole?)
Top off fuel.
Add stabilizer (which one?)
Run non-tox through motor.
Shrink wrap boat.
Park on wood boards.
Remove batteries.
Is it okay to keep the weight of the boat on the trailer all winter?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Is the motor carbed? If so, fog with fogging oil/spray (any brand until it stalls or smokes heavily).

Make a piece of plywood to cover outdrive hole.

DO NOT top off tank, run out as much as you can. Use Startron and stabil.


Everything else looks fine.

 

[Megabyte]

Looks like a plan, but I have to ask... why remove the outdrive?
Does it not drain completely?

One other thing that I do.
If there is any water in the bilge, toss in some non toxic antifreeze and briefly cycle the bilge pump (to get antifreeze into the lines).

 

[DaleH]

TRAILERS: For the last 20+ years of boats > 24' with V^ OBs, my bros and I lower the trailer tongue all the way, the put blocks of 8"x8", 6"x6", 4"x4", or smaller PT blocks (NEVER cinder blocks) under the rear of the trailer frame, and then crank the tongue end back up and up high, so bilge fully drains. This also raise the rear wheels off the ground or at least off > 75% of the weight. Block it well, I'll even throw wider 3/4" ply against the ground as a solid footing.

Make sure to ADD ventilation ports and the door (if desired) to your shrink wrap. Honestly, I see far too many boats wrapped up waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too tight, only to suffer from mildew in the coming Spring when un-wrapped. Prop open any hatch, door, or inspection port/deck plate, and remove the cushions. Boats under covers need to breathe!

I also believe best to run tank as low as possible, specially with E10 fuel.

 

[DBthal]

put blocks of 8"x8", 6"x6", 4"x4", or smaller PT blocks (NEVER cinder blocks) under the rear of the trailer frame

DaleH,

I have just winterized my first boat (Parker 1801) and have it under stretchwrap in my side yard in Maine. I was about to brace the trailer as you described, but planned to use cinder blocks with pressure treated wood pads. Why do you recommend not to use cinder blocks?

Thanks!

Dan

 

[Bryan 2530]

Ice can blow them apart under the weight of the boat, although the 18 is pretty light.

 

[DaleH]

I was about to brace the trailer as you described, but planned to use cinder blocks with pressure treated wood pads. Why do you recommend not to use cinder blocks?

Ice can blow them apart under the weight of the boat, although the 18 is pretty light.

Dan:

Somewhere here on CP we have pictures of a 2520 from MD (IIRC) where it was blocked by cinder blocks and they cracked during a freezing rain/snow cycle and the boat hit the ground.

I do see them used for small craft in my boatyard, but NEVER stand them up so the hole is vertical :shock: ! That's when they'll fill, freeze, and crack. But then again, every Spring I do see a small pile of cracked block remnants too ... so that's why I myself would never use one ...

 

[DBthal]

Thanks Bryan & Dale - I'll cut some pressure treated 8x8 for blocking.

 

[Ryan C]

Looks like a plan, but I have to ask... why remove the outdrive?
Does it not drain completely?

Good question, I'm doing it because everyone has told me to. Why is this done.

At the very least it'll give me the opportunity to inspect/replace the bellows ect...


DALE: think it is okay to do that with a I beam aluminum trailer, worried about torsion or whatever.

Oh and what about the condensation in the fuel tank??? 4 months of condensation in there is okay?

 

[DaleH]

Looks like a plan, but I have to ask... why remove the outdrive?

I missed this ... but here in New England, we remove I/O Outdrives to prevent THEFT :evil: ! I'll read about a handful stolen every Winter.

 

[POGE]

Concerned for electronics, I also add two cans of damp-rid ($6 for 2 pak at bed bath store) and placed by my flush mounted electronics to help with possible moisture, also removed and those tight fitting electronic screen covers to avoid any traped moisture not getting out.

 

[ReelyNauti]

Oh boy my house is gonna fall down!!!
Sometimes its the little things that bother me. so i'm just going to vent

CEMENT BLOCKS are more than fine and for 1.89 each ($35) they r cheaper than braces/jacks or real cribbing!!

I've seen boats blown off their jacks/stands while my boat sat tight!!!

Ridiculous ....Cement blocks are better than most items except for cribbing,,,,,, If used properly

They hold up buildings and houses for hundreds of years !!!!
They can support thousands of pounds if stacked properly !!!
They have to be used properly!!!! Key placement is of utmost importance !!!
They come in light weight and structural(use structural)

First they have to be placed horizontal with the holes facing up n down
Second they should be placed on a 2'x2' piece of wood/plywood on a level surface
third they should be used in a cross stack method 2 one way 2 the other
fourth the last layer is supposed to be wood cribbing.....


I can post a hundred pictures of 1.6 million dollar cabos propped up on block (done the right way)

Potatoes patatos

 

[DaleH]

Message locked ... please people, watch your tone when you have an opinion that differs from someone else. One can have a differing opinion about any topic without being obnoxious or disrespectful about it.

I myself would never use a cement block in the cold Winters I see up here in Mass and that is why I advised someone from Maine (with even worse Winters) not to do so. But that is my opinion, as clearly presented. I bet in warmer climates without the severe freezing to warmer days, that cement blocks could be a viable method. But for the record, the far majority of cement block failures I've seen were placed with the holes up & down - in freezing climates with extensive freeze/thaw cycles - and that allows the holes to fill up with slush and ice that 'may' crack in days to follow with more freezing temps. If blocks work for you - have at it.

This post is locked ... anyone who takes up this debate in another topic will be subject to disciplinary action ... if you don't like it ... ignore it. If you really don't like - please go elsewhere.