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Hands Down! Suzuki DF300AP This is the one with Fly by wire. You do NOT want the Dual Prop one...They have Bugs. It will bring a Smile to your face the 1st time your able to run it after break in. In fact before that due to being Extra - Extra quiet. You will want a Suzuki 3 X 16 X 17 Prop.

I am Not sure..... BUT.... If it has a 30in shaft where there should be a 25..... It will never be efficient. You will always have extra drag.

You START with the Obvious.... Condition of Batteries is ALWAYS #1. :)

Thats Not good that you are unsure.... That is also a touch low in RPM. I found one in alum. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/6G5-45941-00-00 Wondering how low / which holes the engine is mounted in?

I had to come read this to find out what in the Hell a "Running Board" is on a 18ft Parker. LOL How about.... "Console Foot Prop" :)

Yep..... 3 X 16 x 17 "SUZUKI" Prop.

It's the sender jumping up and down. It has a Float Arm style sender in it and as the fuel sloshes around the sender moves. Pull the sender...... Measure the tank depth. .... Buy and install the proper length Reed style sender. This is a reed style sender: This is a Arm style sender :

In Pensacola,Fl. I have a metal RV shelter shaded by a LARGE Oak tree. This is what I work under most of the time on customer boats. I've only ever had 1 boat that would not get a siginal on GPS under there. The boat was equipped with a Hummingbird MFD bail mounted on top of console. Move...

No need for epoxy..... A Hot glue gun would work well, for what your talking about.... How I do it...... Don't make it hard. A piece of 1/4in plywood aprox. 5in square or round. Make sure it will lay flat over the existing hole....Old X-Ducer removed. Drill a 1/4in hole in the center of that...

Yes... But don't do it! E-Box's are for a VHF & entertainment radios. Now.... Why Not do it? Because it is Literally a Pain in the Neck..... Looking Up all the time. You've been warned!

Yes...They shrink with age.... Carefully pull the carpet back... They use contact cement. Then it's a 2 person job...one inside.... One outside. Remove the fastner...seal and reinstall. Then something like 3M Spray Trim adhesive to reinstall the carpet...It is spray Bomb contact...

Thats the wire your hunting in the back... Now "WHERE" is it? LOL only digging around will help you find it.... and Sometimes thats not easy.

You May or may Not have wires. Just because you have a switch, doesn't mean the wire is run. Start by pulling the switch panel. Look at the Livewell switch. Does it have 2 wires on it..... Or one? It could have more , depending if you have background lights in the switch. The wire going to...

In the pix below....You will see a nylon sleeve in the hole. The hole in the nylon is sized for the bolt. A nylon flat washer is placed under the Stainless flat washer. The bolt is then coated with Tef Gel also. All of this is done to isolate the Stainless from the alum. To not do this...

You have to do better than that. What IS your Max RPM? Post good pixs of where the engine is bolted.....Which hole? A pix like this.

IcyAtlantic.... The answer is. Get Rid of the Porta Potty. Use a 5gal bucket with a snap on toilet lid. Only 2 girls? Ha! 4 Granddaughters and all their friends.

What cased that? It's a 2 answer question. Poor Prep? Poor Primer? Is it Powdercoated? But ultimately...It is the stainless contacting the alum. Door Frame will need to be removed and stripped of the seal and broken down to just the parts. It will need to be Blasted and then Powdercoated...

If the Breaker has tripped, Or the Master Switch is OFF .... There is no Power and therefore there will be no clicking when the switch is hit. Where I would start is with the Relay.... The "Clicking" is the piston on the relay actuating.... But if it's not making good contact.... They will be...

Name Brand..... "Bada Highspeed Windlass" CHINA knock off Sounds like you don't have Proper Voltage there.... Or a Bad Relay https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Bada-windlasses-from-Whittworths?page=1

Yep..... Milk crate . :)