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It's True... It's the design inside that makes the difference. The Dometic is what threw me. I guess it's another corporate buyout? Never heard of "Dometic" before. I looked and can't find the exploded / cutaway view that Teleflex use to have.

You want ONLY --- Teleflex X-Treame cables.

One exception........ There are ALWAY's exception's to the Rules. If there was just one that came to mind..... That would be ... Boats Come in All different configurations and then must be figured out, What is the best layout for THIS one. :)

When waterpump gets changed..... Thermostat & Pop Off valve get changed also. This gives you a peak inside to see how clean or dirty your cooling system is. They are often overlooked. if your 1st water pump change is 300hrs. THAT "Can" be a Long period of time. Considering the "Average" boater...

As Pelagic said..... But I'll throw in another scenario.. I will start by saying... Just Good enough is NOT good enough! That is why I have the following that I do. Now on to my explanation. The situation is say a center console with a door to access on the Port side. Batteries are...

Your expecting to much out of it.... Typical side scan is MAXED Out @ 100ft.

OK... It's a sealed Charger then.... The fans were the deceiving part.... Thinking it was a open box "Like a computer power supply and other chargers I've seen for these batteries. Flipping the Breaker ON/OFF is Not the right thing to do. Having the Breaker YES... But using it as a ON/OFF...

THIS is Not what "I'd" buy... I have a Giant bag of Cabisol. But it is purposed for 1 small project. Yes you mix it to a thickness of mashed potatoes.. https://www.westmarine.com/west-system-101-t-resin-hardener-packets-382036.html...

The #1 reason that the Big engine will not run is Bad fuel..... The kicker will share that same fuel.

On that style charger.... It's not designed for the riggers of marine use. It should be taken ON & OFF the boat when Not charging the battery. Use a Anderson style plug to do the quick hook up.

I see No Master ON/Off switch? Route it and mount it just inside the console door so you don't have to climb in there. Just open the door and turn the switch to ON.... At end of day....Turn switch OFF. To not do so is my contention why all these TM's end up in the shop for a board change...

Are YOU going to be doing the work to move the engine? This is on a Modified 14deg transom boat..... Your results may vary with a Deep V 22deg boat. I do my own work and can move and reseal a engine in 30min. So experimentation to me is not a Big deal. The "Standard" rule is 12in back...

You want to glue them in and not be Resign starved..... The plywood core will do that if you don't pre wet it..... and may take multiple coats at different stages. You actually want the PVC to fit loosely....IE: Have a good gap. This is one job I'd use epoxy on. It will set slower and suck in...

Yes... My dealer had those dual bolt plates.... That was back in 2013. I've never seen them on another boat. Pix is hard to see with the Black..... 3rd hole down on engine is Top hole on Bracket.

On a 2530 MV

How to determine deadrise with boat on trailer. You will need a angle finder. https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html aprox 6in in front on transom.... on the bottom of the hull. Take a reading on Port side.... Write that down Now take a reading on STB side ...

The Suzuki will be Cheaper.. Quieter ...... Than the Yamaha. It runs a timing Chain in oil bath.... Not a Belt like Yamaha. It's geared Lower and thus Swings a Larger diameter Prop than Yamaha. On a 25ft Parker the Suzuki 3 X 16 Dia X 17pitch is what you will want.

What Andy said. :) Easing in from 4ft to 3ft..... I'm hitting the trim and watching Sonar.

First thing we do is test & test. It's obvious you haven't been here long, as changing engine height or at least testing a different engine height is a pretty common thing around here..... Or Was.... I've noticed a change in this forum. Why is that? Because the manufacture / dealer doesn't...