1700CC gas tank leak

[GlenEcho]

The one thing you don't want to have happen...Hi everyone, I'm relatively new to the forum, but have checked in from time to time. I have a 1997 1700CC; great little boat that I've had a great time with and many fishing stories with as well. Not long ago I found about 5 gallons of gas in the bilge...thought first it was my own fault for over tightening a recently replaced fuel-water separator, then assumed it was leaking from a bad O-ring on a fuel sending unit that I replaced in an attempt to "fix" my broken fuel gauge. After eliminating those, took it down to the shop and pressurized the fuel tank only to find out the worst...there's about a pencil sized hole on the corner of the fuel tank about 1-2 feet from the back of the tank. Read a post about a design flaw where Parker uses foam on the side of the fuel tank to secure it in the deck? The boat is now in the shop...plan is to cut a hole in the deck above the leak and attempt to patch the hole with JB Weld or some sort of patching material, rather than a hideously expensive removal and replacement of the gas tank itself.

Has anyone had a similar situation (patching a leak in a fuel tank)? It is a 15 yr old aluminum tank used almost exclusively in saltwater, any input on the expected life for a stock fuel tank like that? Finally, is there some preventative maintenance steps that I haven't taken into account that maybe I should have to prevent something like this from happening (i.e. removing the access covers periodically to allow the fuel tank to air out)? While the damage is apparently done, any input from your past experiences is appreciated.

 

[warthog5]

plan is to cut a hole in the deck above the leak and attempt to patch the hole with JB Weld or some sort of patching material,

Please don't do that.....This is nothing to play with. Build a new tank. Clean, sand,clean the alum after the tank is built. Coal Tar epoxy coat the alum. Reinstall with 4lb density foam. I've done a bunch of them, just not on Parkers. This is not a "Parker" flaw.

Alum needs air around it to self seal. The foam gets water in it and holds the water, not allowing air in there. Sooner or later it may happen again. You will not know it. A documented tank change with Coal Tar is a asset on Re Sale. One that is not coated....Not so much.

A faulty fuel tank is nothing to play with. How much is your life and family worth to you?

I have plenty of pix's if you want to see tanks being changed?

 

[miky2884]

Listen to the above comment, absolute terrible idea.

 

[ParkerJr]

Definatley do not do that. Please do not cut corners, this is a serious safety issue you are dealing with. Spend the time to do it right now or pay the price later.

I'm not sure if I am allowed to post links like this. But, here is a story about a local guy were I live that wasn't so lucky. Maybe this will put it into perspective for everyone on the severity/dangers of gasoline powered boats.

http://forums.floridasportsman.com/show ... ous-Thread)-My-friends-need-some-help

And if you want to see what severe burns look like go to page 2. (Not for the faint of heart) And the letter from this gentlemans wife on page 4 may make you think twice.

 

[Sully]

^^^^ Wow ^^^^
pray for the best for him and his family

 

[GlenEcho]

Thanks guys for your comments, and for sharing that link ParkerJr. Eye opening. The shop opened a hole in the deck today over the tank, and I'll head down tomorrow to take a look and discuss options for replacing the whole tank, not cheap I'm sure. On another note, I misspoke...not JB Weld, but Permatex cold weld fuel tank repair to seal the small hole that is on the top of the tank is the more accurate description of one recommendation he made...not sure if that changes your suggestions though...

Warthog, I'd definitely appreciate taking a look at those pics if it's not too much to ask you to upload them.

Thanks again.

 

[warthog5]

I misspoke...not JB Weld, but Permatex cold weld fuel tank repair to seal the small hole that is on the top of the tank is the more accurate description of one recommendation he made.

That sounds fine.....On a Car... Not a Boat. Fumes on a car disperse into the atmosphere. On a boat they collect in the bilge.

29 SeaVee 3 new fuel tanks. 1- 86 and 2- 40's

All anodized alum fittings.

23 Sea Hunt W/A

I have a local shop I work with to build these replacement tanks. They are build way beyond what the "Regular" tank places do.

Here are the highlights.

3/16in material [replacing 1/8in]
Both ends of tank vented for rapid fill
Fuel neck a sweep....Not a 90.
Fuel sending unit position made of 3/8 or 1/2in material drilled and tapped. Screws do not go into tank.

25Mako

201 BackCountry Replacing a 45gal plastic tank that leaked.[This one is in my shop right now.]

 

[BradH]

I have a drawing from Parker of the 1700 stringer and tank layout...but it's at the office and can't get at it til Wednesday at the earliest due to the storm.

Please, please, please take pictures of all the steps and post them! They are indispensable for us with the same hull!

 

[windknotnc]

I guess I should chime in. Been there done that. I did a complete rehab of a 21se, new stringers and deck. I did not replace the tank but used JB Weld for fuel tanks to fill and repair the Crevis Corrosion spots. Mine we not as bad as the one you describe, but can guarantee you have more than one and it will eventually leak somewhere else. With this said I put the boat back together and one thing led to another including gas leaking into the sealed foam tank box. I drained the tank removed the console and all connections, cut the new floor I had put in, removed the old tank and had a new one built. I did not bed this one in foam but followed a different technique to ensure I will always have air around the tank. Yes, I did 2 complete tank/floor rebuilds in 6 months time. The job is not that hard and if you have some skill and guts you can do it.

 

[warthog5]

If possible ?........There is another thought. You can't see it on some of my pix's, but it was done.

A piece of 3in wide or 4in wide 6oz glass tape was laid around and over the edge of the tank.

Think about this. On smaller boats and boats that I've worked in the past. The area under the deck has no air flow. That magical thing that allows alum to create it's protective coating. Instead from Dark to daylight you have a temp change and humidity builds up in there. [Especially FL.] This creates condensation.

Then you have the never checked seal around the porthole inspection hatches. How would you check it for a leak anyway?

So seawater, rainwater, washwater can leak in.

The idea is Coal tar the tank, foam the tank in. Cut the foam even with the top of the tank and then fiberglass to the coffin and top of tank.

This will stop any permeation of water down into the foam and upon inspection you will know if you have a leak by water sitting on top of the tank.....Others have set up a drain even with the top of the tank so that it goes to the bilge.

Here's my one and only Youtube vid...Playing with my GoPro Cam. Removing the foam the fast way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMF3kvmo ... e=youtu.be

 

[BradH]

Stringer layout for the 1700.

 

[GlenEcho]

Thank you all for the posts and information. I'll be heeding the advice and we'll be installing a 35 gal polyethylene, ethanol resistant, fuel tank. I'll lose 5 gallons, but I'm looking forward to not having corrosion problems associated with the alum tanks, even if they're coal tarred. I'll post an update and some pics once she's opened up.