Have a 1801 and want to move batteries from transom to console, 2 batteries. Reason being, the scuppers are under water when 2 are at or near console and water constantly coming in. Have the storage room under console and question is...can the batteries just be moved to console and then take the 2 positive wires and 2 negative wires that you have to run from batteries to the back and connect to all the wires back there, without having to route all the wiring up front. Simple move if can be done like this. Now have lot of weight in transom area...Bob's Jackplate with pump, water washdown pump, 30 gal. livewell, and the 2 batteries. Almost standing in water if sitting still for period of time. Do not have this problem if only me aboard and then only if someone moves to console area. Plus, this would make getting on plane faster and just overall better ride seems to me. Someone with wiring know how can answer this...thanks.
1801 Battery Relocation
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warthog5
Well-known member
Well Yes....But this is the time to Upgrade. BEP Cluster switch in console beside the batteries.
Install a Hatch, if needed for easy access to the batteries so they can be serviced with ease.
Install a Hatch, if needed for easy access to the batteries so they can be serviced with ease.
I also have an 1801 with 30 gallon bait tank. Had the same problem, plus, I have a 24V trolling motor so I have THREE batteries - all relocated to the console. I figured that, since I was doing it anyway I'd put all new wiring in. Also installed some accessories, chargers, breaker for the trolling motor, etc.
Used a specially fabricated base and hold downs. Works very well.
Used a specially fabricated base and hold downs. Works very well.
Mike S, also have the Riptide auto pilot with the battery charger under console and two trolling batteries. Moving the batteries up front will help because with 2 behind steering wheel and sitting still, water comes in scuppers. One person can move out behind steering wheel and step couple steps forward and water starts to recede, so doesn't take much. I figure batteries probably 40 lb. each...lot of weight. Mine a 115 Yamaha, about 5600 WOT and 35 MPH...hope would be little better with this move. What motor/ figures you getting? Just got mine last summer..only 385 hrs ...drove down to Florida to pick up. Guy had installed Bob's Jackplate which I love, 998 Hummingbird, trolling motor and this only problem I have with it. Great on gas..had a Grady with old 115 2s and a gas guzzler...what a difference with a 4s. Thanks for the info.Mike S":1vu637hq said:I also have an 1801 with 30 gallon bait tank. Had the same problem, plus, I have a 24V trolling motor so I have THREE batteries - all relocated to the console. I figured that, since I was doing it anyway I'd put all new wiring in. Also installed some accessories, chargers, breaker for the trolling motor, etc.
Used a specially fabricated base and hold downs. Works very well.
Waydown -- I also have the ST80 with iPilot, Humminbird 898i, 30 Gallon Offshore bait tank and 115 4S Yamaha. WIth a 13.25" X 17p three blade stainless prop I am getting 5800 RPM and about 37-38 MPH. However, I have a lot of bottom paint that needs to come off. But that is the next project. I expect that will give me another 2-3 MPH.
I just had Bennett tabs installed to help me adjust better in a crosswind and running with the tank full or empty. Even though I removed the pilot's seat and installed the bait tank in that spot, that 30 gallons of water weighs over 250 lbs.! I am using three G31 Deka Marine Intimidator AGM batts that weigh 69 lbs each - total of 207 lbs, plus about 10 lbs of cable and connectors. Figure it out… moving them is about all you can do to trim your Parker.
Post up or PM me if you want to know specifics.
I just had Bennett tabs installed to help me adjust better in a crosswind and running with the tank full or empty. Even though I removed the pilot's seat and installed the bait tank in that spot, that 30 gallons of water weighs over 250 lbs.! I am using three G31 Deka Marine Intimidator AGM batts that weigh 69 lbs each - total of 207 lbs, plus about 10 lbs of cable and connectors. Figure it out… moving them is about all you can do to trim your Parker.
Post up or PM me if you want to know specifics.
Got a good set up there Mike S, I just did my bottom paint this summer...makes a difference. Don't have the trim tabs. Son also has a 1800 Parker...we fish the Ches. Bay in Virgina in summer months for flounder...fall North Car. reds and speck. trout. The 18 is perfect for that type and trolling m. allows you to get in some real tight holes for those trout. We took mine out on one of the lakes this weekend and just rode the smooth water a while...hope to go one more time trout f. before the real cold arrives.
Mike S":2tfzexcl said:Waydown -- I also have the ST80 with iPilot, Humminbird 898i, 30 Gallon Offshore bait tank and 115 4S Yamaha. WIth a 13.25" X 17p three blade stainless prop I am getting 5800 RPM and about 37-38 MPH. However, I have a lot of bottom paint that needs to come off. But that is the next project. I expect that will give me another 2-3 MPH.
I just had Bennett tabs installed to help me adjust better in a crosswind and running with the tank full or empty. Even though I removed the pilot's seat and installed the bait tank in that spot, that 30 gallons of water weighs over 250 lbs.! I am using three G31 Deka Marine Intimidator AGM batts that weigh 69 lbs each - total of 207 lbs, plus about 10 lbs of cable and connectors. Figure it out… moving them is about all you can do to trim your Parker.
Post up or PM me if you want to know specifics.
I would love to see pics of the custom base.
warthog5
Well-known member
I do a lot of this. Have a 30 Prosports in the yard now. 31 Ocean master coming next.
Switch should be within 1 foot of Battery.
Anyone else note the Black cable on the Positive terminal in the pix? I'm betting it is the jumper for the 24V for trolling motor....But it's still wrong, as it could get confused.
Use a Red cable.....for the jumper. Use Red shrink on one end and Black on the other to ID which terminal.
Electrically it makes no difference....The idea is to take the human screw up out of things.
Warthog5, the perko battery switch located in transom box now would have to be moved to console when relocating batteries to console?warthog5":2ft3b4qd said:Mistake, a Quest switch and charger in mine Warthog5, my sons' 1800 has the Perto switch.
I do a lot of this. Have a 30 Prosports in the yard now. 31 Ocean master coming next.
Switch should be within 1 foot of Battery.
Anyone else note the Black cable on the Positive terminal in the pix? I'm betting it is the jumper for the 24V for trolling motor....But it's still wrong, as it could get confused.
Use a Red cable.....for the jumper. Use Red shrink on one end and Black on the other to ID which terminal.
Electrically it makes no difference....The idea is to take the human screw up out of things.
warthog5":2z33lwb1 said:
I agree that the switch, charger, and breaker should be very near the battery.
Anyone else note the Black cable on the Positive terminal in the pix? I'm betting it is the jumper for the 24V for trolling motor....But it's still wrong, as it could get confused.
Use a Red cable.....for the jumper. Use Red shrink on one end and Black on the other to ID which terminal.
Electrically it makes no difference....The idea is to take the human screw up out of things.
The positive AND negative terminals need to be connected to produce the 24V for the trolling motor, thus a red and a black cable. There is a lot that is not shown in that photo, and I don't have a photo of the whole batt set-up. One of the two 12V batts powering the trolling motor also acts as back-up starting battery. The Stealth charger can handle 12V and 24V banks. Using a Perko switch on the right side of the breaker, which has a manual on/off control so it does double duty as a breaker and power switch for the trolling motor.
Another shot of the bait tank showing leaning 'post'.
This was mounted in the boat with sealed through deck fittings and a 5/8" thick mounting ring. Picture below.
warthog5
Well-known member
yea well OK...That's a given...But my problem is that Black cable.
Here is my point...It has a good chance of someone connecting it WRONG.
When anyone builds a system ....Think ahead...Make it human proof as much as possible.
warthog5":3jy4zalo said:
There are RED and BLACK cables according to standard.
EDIT: It has been several years since I rigged the boat, but I just realized why that black cable is on the positive pole.
When hooking two batteries in series (to get 24v DC) one positive pole is connected to the negative pole on the second battery. The 24V power leads from the bank of series connected batteries use the negative pole of one battery (black cable) and the positive pole of the other (red cable) to supply 24V. The cable connecting the two batteries + and - should be BLACK to avoid confusion with the actual power leads. So what you see in the photo is a BLACK cable that connects the + and - poles of the two batteries.
I am a bit of a stickler about getting shit right when I do it.
kidfreediver
Well-known member
Mike, Wart should know how to hook up batteries in series
Steve08753
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I did this on my prior Parker very easy, move both batteries and the battery switch to the console then run 1 each positive and negative cable to the transom where I installed 2 Blue Seas power posts to join the new cables to the cables from the motor. I would also advise having the cables made by genuinedealz.com, high quality and very well priced.
warthog5
Well-known member
Steve08753":2gf3qiuk said:
And that's pretty much it in a nutshell.
It's that it would be a good time to upgrade the Battery switch to a BEP.....Then you have no electronics's spiking, know Exactly which battery is ON and auto charging to the Start and House batteries.
