1998' 2520 tank replacement

[jimjybe]

Finally replaced the tank in my 2520. I emailed Parker and they sent me the dimensions of the original tank in my mod V, after measuring to confirm and making adjustments on the placement of the gauge and ports I had the tank made. I also shortened the tank 6" overall to make it easier to drop in when allowing floor cutting distance from the front bulkhead. After the tank was made I picked up everything that was needed to do the job and completed it in less than a week. I was able to cut and reuse the same floor, epoxying it back into place thus saving fiberglass and refinishing. All the wood underneath was in great shape!!! yeah! My plan is to add a custom floor covering to cover the seam, the bonding epoxy is holding extremely well! Only issue I had was where I cut the floor on the sides, it was cut beyond the "tank box" and it was factory nailed down to the box walls, In hind sight I should have cut right along the tank walls as I did in the rear. Ended up having to use a port-o-power wedge to slide through the port holes to remove the floor in one piece, little by little. Since the floor consisted of 3 pieces I reinforced the bottom while making it straight. I will include photos of the operations, all in all I am very happy with the results and how well Parker's are made! Now, if I could only make my own fuel!

New tank epoxy coated



Measure & cut



Tank was empty for two years, fastest way to remove the foam! This is Floriduh lol!



Everyone said how hard it would be to remove, not that bad at all. I found the hardest part was running the new fuel hoses!


One hole, from water in the fuel.




nails in original flooring





Epoxy lip in place & used felt strips on the sides to prevent epoxy from escaping. You can also see that the tank was short enough to drop straight in.



Epoxy back in!

 

[tomc585]

Nice DIY. I'm glad to see they used what looks like ring shanked nails. Interesting that you went a wee bit smaller on the tank.
I take chances but the chainsaw for the foam removel....LOL. Hey, what ever works. My first thought would be to use a power washer on the foam.
The cuts along the stringers, Did you overcut on purpose or was that an opps?

 

[jimjybe]

Nice DIY. I'm glad to see they used what looks like ring shanked nails. Interesting that you went a wee bit smaller on the tank.
I take chances but the chainsaw for the foam removel....LOL. Hey, what ever works. My first thought would be to use a power washer on the foam.
The cuts along the stringers, Did you overcut on purpose or was that an opps?

I was thinking I was cutting along the top of the stringer, it worked out ok, just more work than needed.

 

[Efx]

Nice clean work. Chain saw gets it done. It sure is easier when you don’t have to move a center console off the tank coffin area and then reinstall everything!

 

[Steve Jensen]

how much did the tank cost you?

 

[jimjybe]

Priced the 3/16" tank in September 2021 was $1,960,00 ordered it to be made a month later and it was almost $200.00 more due to the cost in aluminum. All in all I did this for around $2,500.00 having the visible seam in the floor.

 

[pelagic2530]

Priced the 3/16" tank in September 2021 was $1,960,00 ordered it to be made a month later and it was almost $200.00 more due to the cost in aluminum. All in all I did this for around $2,500.00 having the visible seam in the floor.

Nice. Who fabricated the tank for you, and where are you located?

 

[jimjybe]

Nice. Who fabricated the tank for you, and where are you located?

Had the tank made in Tampa Florida by CL Mattson, he has since retired. I posted looking for a good tank fabricator on "the hull truth" and fb "Tampa offshore" page (my region). He was the most reccomend. Seemed like there were several others that had good reviews too. One guy couldn't make a tank that long.

 

[rfleming]

Had the tank made in Tampa Florida by CL Mattson, he has since retired. I posted looking for a good tank fabricator on "the hull truth" and fb "Tampa offshore" page (my region). He was the most reccomend. Seemed like there were several others that had good reviews too. One guy couldn't make a tank that long.

I have a 1999 Parker 23 Deep Vee. I also had to replace my tank just over a year ago. I hired Atlantic Coastal Welding @ 16 Butler Blvd Bayville NJ 08721. You can find them on the Internet at speedytank.com. Their phone number is 732-269-1088. I talked to a lady named Trica there. They did an outstanding job and, I think, it took about 5 weeks to get the tank after I ordered it. If you close to Morehead City I can also give you the information on who installed my tank. I was very, very pleased with everything!

 

[Lurchich]

Looks great! I replaced the tank on my 1989 Parker 2120 last year, so I know what an ordeal this job is! Looks fantastic and lots of luck with it!
Just re-re-re-launched mine and finally have (so far!) success!
Love seeing the CLASSIC Parker’s given new life!

 

[rfleming]

Had the tank made in Tampa Florida by CL Mattson, he has since retired. I posted looking for a good tank fabricator on "the hull truth" and fb "Tampa offshore" page (my region). He was the most reccomend. Seemed like there were several others that had good reviews too. One guy couldn't make a tank that long.

I had mine made in NJ by Speedytank.com. They did an Awesome job and I was happy.

 

[2801 Parker]

I recently had two 150 gallons tanks replaced on my 2801 CC. Welding Dynamics in Jupiter, FL fabricated the tanks. I would highly recommend them for folks in the South Florida area.

 

[dbaja]

What a great post and perfect timing! I’m in the process of replacing the 148 gallon tank on my 2330 now. I’m going to cut, remove, and instal the tank myself then hire someone to do the finish work. As of now I plan to use Coal tar epoxy to seal the new tank and foam it in with 5lb density poly foam. Does everyone recommend foaming in the tank cavity? I have heard others say to NOT foam it in due to it possibly allowing water to remain in contact with the tank. All advice welcome!

Great job on the instal jimjybe, I’m sending you a PM to talk more!

 

[Efx]

If in SoCal, check out American tanks in San Diego. Vince makes good tanks.

 

[dbaja]

Thanks Efx, Vince at American tanks is who’s going to make the tank. Finalizing the purchase today.

 

[cfiorentino]

Did you find water trapped in the tank coffin? If so how much water?

 

[tomc585]

Tarring the tank is one of the preventatives should the foam become compromised.

 

[warthog5]

I plan to use Coal tar epoxy to seal the new tank and foam it in with 5lb density poly foam. Does everyone recommend foaming in the tank cavity? I have heard others say to NOT foam it in due to it possibly allowing water to remain in contact with the tank

Never seen 5lb density....It's usually 4lb density. Urethane Foam , Expanding Marine Polyurethane Foam

I'm guessing you have not read any of my posts on this subject?

After the tank is Coal Tared epoxy....You need to sand and clean the alum....80gt.
Then lag bolt it in......Then foam it in.....tape off deck stage all your product right where your working....You tape off deck for spills. You cut foam off flush with top of tank....Then you bridge .....fiberglass from side of coffin over onto the top of tank....No water will get to the foam.....Have a Limber hole even with top of tank to blidge for any water that leaks past hatches....It will hit top of tank and go out limber hole / holes.......

 

[dbaja]

Actually, I’ve read through most if not all of your threads covering this topic and I’m basing much of my work off your expertise and knowledge. So thank you!!! At this point I’m going to follow your plan to the T. I must have misread the density of the foam. Sounds like 4 lb is the ticket, although others have recommended 6 lb density for my tank because of its large size (148 gal). Thoughts?

Ordered my tank yesterday, I will pick it up in a few weeks. I’m hoping most of the work will be done by then. I’ll post the progress!

 

[warthog5]

I noted on another thread installing a tank and they used Cossa....There is Zero access to the sending unit....Poor Bastard when that fails...whoever has to fix it.

Here is what should have been done.... Access cut for a 6in Armstrong piehole.
A round flange glued to the bottom side of the top panel....This would create a recess where the hole is and give a shelf / flange for the Armstrong to sit on....

So you end up with a Watertight piehole and it's recessed so you don't stub your toe on it. And YES....They are Watertight.
The Armstrongs also provide more working room.....I've seen pieholes lighened up on the centerline of the boat to look right....and yet the sender was offset , and not in alignment with the hole...Major PIA to change.