21se Trolling Motor Project

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very nice!

couple questions:
are you running 6 gauge or 8 gauge wire?
I'm planning to get the LiTime 24v 100AH as well, what charge is that and where you get the battery base?
about to install mine, 24/80/72, thanks!
 
very nice!

couple questions:
are you running 6 gauge or 8 gauge wire?
I'm planning to get the LiTime 24v 100AH as well, what charge is that and where you get the battery base?
about to install mine, 24/80/72, thanks!
Thanks. Below are links to what I used. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck! It was a fun project.

I ran duplex 6 gauge.
https://www.boatwireusa.com/collect...wire-tinned-boat-cable-flat-blk-red-by-the-ft

The battery tray is from Bass Boat Tech Model MS219
https://www.bassboattech.com/accessories/battery-trays-and-accessories/lithium-battery-trays

The charger is from Norsk Lithium
https://norsklithium.com/product/24v-lithium-battery-charger-15a/
 
Enough with the crazy guy preaching about how he wants you to wire your boat….. I have a more important question how is the 72” on spot lock in the ocean? I just installed a 72” instict on a 21se and it’s no bueno. Unfortunately we will have to put a 87 on when they become available.

And for what it’s worth I have mine wired like yours with just a breaker but physically unplug my motor before I charge because the negative is still connected when you turn the switch or breaker off and I want my motor completely isolated when charging. That’s my belief and I wouldn’t push that craziness on anyone
 
Enough with the crazy guy preaching about how he wants you to wire your boat….. I have a more important question how is the 72” on spot lock in the ocean? I just installed a 72” instict on a 21se and it’s no bueno. Unfortunately we will have to put a 87 on when they become available.

And for what it’s worth I have mine wired like yours with just a breaker but physically unplug my motor before I charge because the negative is still connected when you turn the switch or breaker off and I want my motor completely isolated when charging. That’s my belief and I wouldn’t push that craziness on anyone
My 72” has no issues in the ocean. Occasionally I get a little cavitation on a bigger swell. Before I decided to do the install myself, I got 2 quotes for installs. Both recommended the 72” (The quotes were for 2x what it cost me to do it myself.). I’m not an expert. If someone is wavering, go bigger. My experience has been good with what I got.

As far as charging, I keep my boat wet slipped so don’t leave the motor mounted. When I charge, the motor isn’t even on the boat. I go down the day before and plug the charger in. I do have the switchable breaker installed. It was designed to be used as a switch.
 
Just finished installing a Minn Kota Terrova 72" 80lb. Successful test run today in the harbor and heading out fishing on Tuesday to see how it does inshore. Getting under the bow was a pain. Had to jerry rig a wrench extension and stick my Ring camera in the anchor locker to guide me. Parker was kind enough to route all cables through a rigging tube, making running the power super easy.

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GetAlong - thank you for sharing your install of trolling motor. I have the same 21SE, but mine is 2018. I did independent research and then came to Classic Parker to see what others did and saw your post. You came closest to what I determined. Same Minn Kota motor and going with a 24V system. I fish primarily in calm waters and not doing anything with a trolling motor on the ocean or in rough water. The 24V system should more than meet my demands. I have some questions.
  • Yes, getting under the bow is going to be a pain but I have thought of ways that I can do it. Please can you tell me what you used for a backing plate?
  • I see that you have used the LiTime battery. I know it is made in China, but they do get good reviews and are so much less in price. I think I would choose the same single 24V battery you chose but would ask how it has performed since you purchased it.
In July 2017 Parker started installing that rigging tube for wiring you mentioned in the 21SE. Unfortunately, even though I have a 2018 boat the mold was fabricated in March of 2017 – so there is no rigging tube. I decided to use my back port locker (which I don’t really use) to install the battery and run 4 AWG wire to the motor. I will also use a plug up front and would always disconnect when not using.

Thank you in advance for any helpful comments.
 
I will also use a plug up front and would always disconnect when not using.

Just put the Circuit Breaker and ON/OFF switch in the back Port locker. You can use a Buss Bar up front to make the connection to the TM and a Blue Seas 1003 Cable Clam to bring the wiring thru the deck and be watertite.
 
Just put the Circuit Breaker and ON/OFF switch in the back Port locker. You can use a Buss Bar up front to make the connection to the TM and a Blue Seas 1003 Cable Clam to bring the wiring thru the deck and be watertite.
Thanks – I have everything on order and think your idea is better than having a plug up front on the bow. I was going to add a Minn Kota quick release mounting plate but decided to mount directly to the boat. I’m guessing without seeing the motor that there is a way to disconnect the shaft and motor head from the mounting base in case I have an issue and need to take it somewhere. The base is going to be a pain to mount because of the distance from anchor locker access.

From the batteries should the on/off switch come first before the breaker or the other way around? I have decided to use two LiTime lithium batteries and a 2 Bank 20-amp ProSport HD for charging. Thank you.
 
From the batteries should the on/off switch come first before the breaker or the other way around? I have decided to use two LiTime lithium batteries and a 2 Bank 20-amp ProSport HD for charging. Thank you.

I like the LiTime batteries. On the Charger...I use nothing but Noco 10amp per bank. It has a Lithem mode.

Master ON/OFF........ Then Breaker. I use Blue Seas Surface mount Breakers.
 

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