2300 DVCC STERN TIE DOWN

[FINSOUT]

Good afternoon,

So I got my new to me used 2018 2300 DVCC and I was curious to see how other Parker owners are securing the stern during trailering without destroying gelcoat or rubbing the paint off the bracket. I was considering putting eye bolts in the bracket to tie off too however, I want to avoid putting unnecessary holes in the bracket from a corrosion prevention measure. Any ideas or hey I already done it and it works would be appreciated. Thanks Guys....

/r
Eric

 

[warthog5]

I was considering putting eye bolts in the bracket to tie off too

Do Not do that.

It's as simple as a Hefty Rachet strap with hooks on each end.....You go down and under the trailer frame....Hooking the hook on the insde of the I beam [alum trailer] and doing the same on the other side and ratchet it down.....Strap is aprox 24in in front of transom.

 

[POGE]

I use transom tie down straps that are basic short rackets as mention by Warhog. Check US Cargo Control,mthey make straps of all kinds and lengths.I would say 2” wide and either endless or with 2 rubberized hooks and all in for $15 you’ll be done.

 

[warthog5]

It just depends on the boat.....Sometimes you can't use the short ones from transom eye to trailer due to the trim tabs. We ran 1 big one over the back of the hull and down to the trailer frame.

 

[FINSOUT]

Thank you for the info, but I was never going to drill hole in the bracket. The boat does have big tabs and I won't be able to run a strap down the back of the transom to the trailer eyebolt. So I will have to figure out how to keep from marring the gelcoat with a strap over the stern gunnel. Was thinking of using PVC pipe cut in half and affixing a protective layer such as carpet to go over the rub rail, then using another cushing material that I can wrap around the strap (like on a car seat belt) that will slide so it can be positioned at the gelcoat contact points.

 

[pelagic2530]

Thank you for the info, but I was never going to drill hole in the bracket. The boat does have big tabs and I won't be able to run a strap down the back of the transom to the trailer eyebolt. So I will have to figure out how to keep from marring the gelcoat with a strap over the stern gunnel. Was thinking of using PVC pipe cut in half and affixing a protective layer such as carpet to go over the rub rail, then using another cushing material that I can wrap around the strap (like on a car seat belt) that will slide so it can be positioned at the gelcoat contact points.

Don’t over complicate it. Cut a pool noodle into a couple lengths of the appropriate size, then slice them lengthwise. Slide over the strap in contact areas, tighten, you’re good to go.

 

[rseate]

Don’t over complicate it. Cut a pool noodle into a couple lengths of the appropriate size, then slice them lengthwise. Slide over the strap in contact areas, tighten, you’re good to go.

I did this when I trailed my boat from Florida back to NC. Ended up having to have the hull buffed twice to get the shadowing from the pool noodle rubbing against the gelcoat out

 

[FINSOUT]

Don’t over complicate it. Cut a pool noodle into a couple lengths of the appropriate size, then slice them lengthwise. Slide over the strap in contact areas, tighten, you’re good to go.

Great idea, that is exactly what I did in the anchor locker, I cut a swim noodle to the width of the anchor contacting the gel coat and it tightened it up very nicely with no metal to gel contact. As rseate stated, the gel coat will take a hit. I suppose I could try using a noodle that has a microfiber towel affixed to provide some level of protection, I know the boat will get nicks, dings and scratches but if I can midgate them to some degree then why not, right. Thank you guys for providing info and getting me heading the right direction with securing the stern.

 

[pelagic2530]

I did this when I trailed my boat from Florida back to NC. Ended up having to have the hull buffed twice to get the shadowing from the pool noodle rubbing against the gelcoat out

Interesting. Never used it for that long of a trip, I guess it has its limits.

 

[Stank Bait]

We used a piece of thick carpet soft side down to protect the gelcoat from strap
No marks

 

[FINSOUT]

I will give that a try, thank you

 

[Inshore Chaser]

Boat Buckle protective pads slide onto the strap...been using for years with no gel coat wear. I use one up top and one on the bottom on each side...points of strap contact with hull.

 

[Bodick93]

We used a piece of thick carpet soft side down to protect the gelcoat from strap
No marks

You could razor cut some slots out near the edge of the carpet and slide the strap through. I would go so far as attaching it in place once set. Maybe a cable tie or plastic rivet to set and forget. The less hassle the better.

 

[Stank Bait]

Just cut a piece about a foot long by eight or so
Just slide under strap and ratchet it down
It’s not going anywhere once tightened down
Simple but sort of looks ghetto at first
Works great for its purpose

 

[Cman60]

I’m actually surprised lots of people use tie downs on the stern. I’ve been trailering boats for 35 years and only use stern tie downs for long hauls. I always use a bow ratchet strap to keep the nose locked in which I think settles the boat into the bunks. Youre talking about 5 to 7000 lbs of boat, fuel etc. With this much weight the rear of your boat isn’t jumping off your trailer unless you are hitting deep ruts at 60 mph, which on the roads I frequent does not exist. I’m not saying it’s a bad idea I just don’t think it’s necessary for your standard home to ramp trip on good roads IMO.

 

[pelagic2530]

I’m actually surprised lots of people use tie downs on the stern. I’ve been trailering boats for 35 years and only use stern tie downs for long hauls. I always use a bow ratchet strap to keep the nose locked in which I think settles the boat into the bunks. Youre talking about 5 to 7000 lbs of boat, fuel etc. With this much weight the rear of your boat isn’t jumping off your trailer unless you are hitting deep ruts at 60 mph, which on the roads I frequent does not exist. I’m not saying it’s a bad idea I just don’t think it’s necessary for your standard home to ramp trip on good roads IMO.

Big factor here, is bunk vs. roller trailers, and normal operation vs. accident preparedness. With a bunk trailer, you’re somewhat right; for short trips at moderate speeds the boat isn’t going to move around much. However, if you’re in any sort of accident, those extra stern straps may be the one thing that keeps the boat firmly on the trailer and upright, as opposed to sliding/bouncing off and potentially causing additional damages and injuries. If you’re going above 25mph or so, that’s a lot of momentum; you need straps.

With roller trailers, stern straps, and BIG ones at that, are 100% required every time that trailer moves with the boat on it. If the bow eye fails, which happened to a member on here, those two stern straps are the only thing keeping the boat from rolling right off the trailer. Even if the load is such that the bow eye fails, that same load is divided by two at the stern; they should hold. And if the straps are adjusted correctly, the load should be evenly distributed amongst the three points in the first place.

The type of strap also matters quite a lot: get rid of any of those cam-lock tensioners you’ve got. For road use, the only acceptable straps are large ratchet straps (2”+) with a beefy center ratcheting mechanism. Make sure when you tighten the ratchet, there’s at least one full wrap of the strap around the center ratchet axle to prevent it from slipping under load. Likewise, make sure there’s not TOO much strap wrapped around the center ratchet axle, which can cause the latching bar to get pushed away from the ratchet pawls, so that the bar doesn’t fully latch down.

Also, read the fine print on the packaging. In some cases, the SWL of the strap may be significantly higher than that of the ratcheting mechanism. They have to be listed for liability purposes, so be sure to check just in case.

 

[Stank Bait]

Some people strap across the bow too. Instead we used a very large turn buckle to tighten the bow eye down to the trailer. Have seen boats break off the winch post. Want to keep it on the trailer no matter what. If you see folks having to scrape up a large boat off the highway after an accident you will see that keeping it on the trailer will minimize damage. Just always made sense to us to keep it all in one package.

 

[FINSOUT]

I appreciate all the input, I am going to move my anchor point away from the main bunk that is tucked way under the hull. I will use the trailer as my primary support arm to get the the straps as vertical as I can to the stern lift points. Creating a straight as possible downward pull on the boat to alleviate any back and forth motion on the gel coat and utilize a sliding seat belt type pad on the strap or a simple slide in and lock down pad. I will publish photos once I have decided which way I want to go. I truly am grateful to have access the knowledge of Parker boat owners........

/r
Eric
SCPO (AW) (RET)

 

[Stank Bait]

Most trailers have bunks that extend past the I-beam
When I had the trailer built I had Owens make the I-beam extend to the transom with the bunks on top
That way I-beam supported the total bunk
Hooked the strap to the I-beam and went over to other side with carpet padding
Made a secure boat to trailer connection
Didn’t attach to lift eyes
Attach to eyes and the strap may not have a point to attach to I-beam
May only be wood bunk there depending on trailer