2310 fishold - stripped out screw holes on hinge

[Billy V]

I have a 2007 2310 with the in deck fish box. The screw holes on the deck side of the hinge have stripped out.
There is no access to through bolt the hinge with a backing plate.

Is there a secure way to re- bed the screws in the deck, or a proven method of fixing this hinge?

Thanks
Bill

 

[DaleH]

Drill the hole a tad oversize. Example using a #10 fastener, which has a body diameter of 1/8".

-Drill out the hole using a 3/16" bit, even if a blind hole, i.e., ends, is not a 'thru' hole

-Fill hole with water-proof 2-part epoxy

-When cured, re-drill for the screw size used, in this example, a 1/8" bit would be used

Simple, foolproof and protects the wood core, if there.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Yep, what he said. :mrgreen:

 

[Billy V]

Thanks guys. I will post the results with Pics when finished.

Yesterday I drilled the top skin of the holes slightly oversized and cleaned out any loose/bad balsa core material with a dremel bit, small pic, tweezer, and shop vac.
- I did not drill completely through the deck, just to the bottom skin of the glass to contain the epoxy.

I am going to create a captured plug similar to what I saw in this article. Then drill it for the wood screw.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck&page=1

 

[DaleH]

I am going to create a captured plug similar to what I saw in this article. Then drill it for the wood screw.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck&page=1

Yes, that's what we all do. Now save your $$ and you don't need to buy West Systems or their expen$ive mixing pumps. But that Raka epoxy "sample kit" with everything you need to do this repair, and MORE!, for only $18 before hipping see: http://store.raka.com/epoxysamplekit.aspx

 

[lpwoodle]

Hey Billy, I would like to see some pictures of the boat. I to, have a 2310 and love to see how everyone has set there boat up. I have to do the same thing for my fish box, i just havent gotten around to it yet.

 

[Billy V]

Here's an Update on the repair:

After speaking with a West Systems rep. I decided to use the new (Six 10) thickened adhesive epoxy. This stuff is a structural repair epoxy, and almost as strong at their strongest mixture. It comes in an easy to use caulk gun tube. $20. The real benefit is not having to mix the 2 parts in a bucket, it comes ready to use and mixes itself through a nozzle you screw on the end call a (600 Static Mixer). As I was told, you will Not have any air bubbles in the mixture. (this was absolutely true)
This is important when filling holes and gaps with epoxy.

It has a working time of 42 minutes in the special mixing nozzle, before it starts to thicken. It will harden in 5-6 hours and fully cures in 24 hours. The epoxy tube comes with a replaceable plug so you can save the unused epoxy. You can buy additional (600 Static Mixers) for future use. $2
-----------------------
As with any job - Prep is important. I took my time using the a dremel bit in my cordless drill/driver, (Not the Dremel Tool) I wanted more control over the speed of the bit, It worked perfectly. Bit #117 High Speed Cutter made the small hole you see in the pic, and allowed me to carve out the inside of the hole without piercing the bottom or damaging the top skin.
Slow and steady got the job done. I also use a small pic to clear out additional diameter inside the holes, and tweezed and shop vac out the debris.
The inside of the hole was hogged out to approximately 1" diameter- to create the captive plug of epoxy in each hole.

I tapped off the deck area, and used an exacto knife to cut open the tape holes.

In the pic you see the Six10 epoxy cartridge (not shown static mixing nozzle). Because of the tedious nature of this job I purchased a couple West System Syringes to shoot the epoxy in the holes. I also bought a couple of plastic mixing sticks to trowel the epoxy level on top of the holes.

The holes are filled, and I will let the holes cure a couple of days before Drilling a Pilot hole for the new screws.
I took a depth measurement when the holes were cleaned out. It was 11/16" deep to the bottom of the hole without piercing the bottom skin of the deck. I decided to use a longer screw to maximize the bite (without piercing the bottom of the deck)
-It was no easy task, but I found some #10 x 7/8" 304 S/S which I will use in place of the factory 3/4" screw.

I'll post an update when its all done.

 

[BradH]

Six10 is a great product. Soooo much easier for small jobs than pumps and powder.

I squirt some out without the tips and mix by hand if I want to save for when I really need them.

 

[Megabyte]

Perfect protection for the core and a solid repair.
Nice work! 8)


I made a repair similar to yours awhile back, but used a slightly different method.
In my case, I prepared everything like you did, but substituted machine screws.
When I filled my hole with epoxy, I didn't fill the hole completely and sunk machine screws in place while the epoxy was still wet.
After the epoxy had cured, I essentially had an epoxy plug that was threaded.