2320 Repower and possible Tank Move

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Iceboy149

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I have an older 1997 2320. I'm taking off about 650lbs worth of kicker, bracket, CMC hydraulic bracket and 2001 200 Johnson Ocean Pro. Replacing with a 610lb or so DF250AP.

If I attempted the fuel tank replacement has anyone moved and at the same time downsized the tank to the compartment further forward on it? I'm aware I'd lose a hatch, depending on the size of the tank.

Any links to other 2320 fuel tank replacements on this forum are appreciated, I've been digging through what I can find but I'm sure there's others I'm missing.

Thanks
 
Leave the tank....Do not move....Do NOT down size it...
You could very easily spend a bunch of money and create a Pig of a boat....

You have no way to weigh the hull...figure the CG .....Parker has done that already in the design.
 
Just replaced tank in my 2300 Big Bay. I can't add much that has not been said in other threads except this: The top of my tank was pretty corroded but the rest of the sides were good (especially for 20 years old). The filler pipe on the tank was especially corroded. Couldn't figure that out until the light bulb went off:

Do NOT replace your tank without also replacing the close-by pie plates!! After snooping around, I found the pie plate on top of the tank seriously leaking and also the pie plate near the fuel filler hose.
 
Just replaced tank in my 2300 Big Bay. I can't add much that has not been said in other threads except this: The top of my tank was pretty corroded but the rest of the sides were good (especially for 20 years old). The filler pipe on the tank was especially corroded. Couldn't figure that out until the light bulb went off:

Do NOT replace your tank without also replacing the close-by pie plates!! After snooping around, I found the pie plate on top of the tank seriously leaking and also the pie plate near the fuel filler hose.
Great point.
I studied this before making a decision to purchase a parker. After purchase I used a long borescope to peek everywhere I could. Overall - these boats a well built!

Funny thing is everyone obsessing about all the wood, yet, pretty consistently a major longevity-limiting factor appear to be the gas tanks.

Those access hatches allow great access, but also water intrusion. I've used a pressure sprayer with a long wand to treat the entire tank top with a mixture of corrosion x diluted with crc6-56, plan to make it a habit and repeat periodically, along with anything else metal. I've been doing it with my trailers, too.

--
 
Great point.
I studied this before making a decision to purchase a parker. After purchase I used a long borescope to peek everywhere I could. Overall - these boats a well built!

Funny thing is everyone obsessing about all the wood, yet, pretty consistently a major longevity-limiting factor appear to be the gas tanks.

Those access hatches allow great access, but also water intrusion. I've used a pressure sprayer with a long wand to treat the entire tank top with a mixture of corrosion x diluted with crc6-56, plan to make it a habit and repeat periodically, along with anything else metal. I've been doing it with my trailers, too.

--

that’s sounds like a pretty good idea.

did the foam get very wet?

if so you can stick a small desk fan in the bilge access to draw (pull) air and make it circulate to dry it out.
 
that’s sounds like a pretty good idea.

did the foam get very wet?

if so you can stick a small desk fan in the bilge access to draw (pull) air and make it circulate to dry it out.
Fortunately my foam is dry, and I plan to keep it that way. I simply opened the hatches and mist-ed lubricating/anticorrosive fluid on top of the tank using a long-ish wand that reached about half way, out of each hatch. I also greased the hatch seals, plan to keep an eye on it so they do not dry out and crack and leak.
 
Leave the tank....Do not move....Do NOT down size it...
You could very easily spend a bunch of money and create a Pig of a boat....

You have no way to weigh the hull...figure the CG .....Parker has done that already in the design.

Just to clarify Warts comment: I'm pretty sure he is saying don't downsize the tank, don't move the tanks location... He is not saying leave the current tank. Definitely do a tank job if you are committed to that project now: the fuel system is only good for about 20 years.... yours is on borrowed time. But, concur: Parker spent a lot of time getting the specs right.... don't change them.
 
OK I get not moving it, I did once in a Seacraft I owed, just moved it forward a few inches and downsized and was absolutely fine, but what's the difference of downsizing a tank and keeping it in the same spot? As if I went to a 100 gallon tank and just kept it in the same position front to back? I'm not going after it til next year. Thanks
 
OK I get not moving it, I did once in a Seacraft I owed, just moved it forward a few inches and downsized and was absolutely fine, but what's the difference of downsizing a tank and keeping it in the same spot? As if I went to a 100 gallon tank and just kept it in the same position front to back? I'm not going after it til next year. Thanks
I think most people here are advocating not downsizing or moving, but simply replacing in kind with the same size tank.

Out of curiosity, why the desire to downsize the tank? Seems like most people are after more fuel capacity, rather than less. If there's a chance you may sell the boat in the future, a smaller tank will likely be seen as a detriment by potential buyers.
 
I think most people here are advocating not downsizing or moving, but simply replacing in kind with the same size tank.

Out of curiosity, why the desire to downsize the tank? Seems like most people are after more fuel capacity, rather than less. If there's a chance you may sell the boat in the future, a smaller tank will likely be seen as a detriment by potential buyers.
When I replaced the tank in my 23DVCC, the tank fabricator downsized it slightly to insure it would fit back in without any issues.
 
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