I'm looking to mount a trolling motor at the bow of a 2019. Does anyone have any ideas on how to access the nuts on the mounting plate inside the bow when installing. I have access thru the anchor locker but I can only reach as far as the nuts that secure the cleat. There is no way I can reach all the way forward to secure the plate. Also, would sealing the holes I drill with something like 4200 be the best method to waterproof? Thanks.
23se trolling motor mounting
- Thread starter MartyL
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Pelagic,
Parker got back to me and said that cutting thru the bulkhead was the way to go to gain access for mounting the trolling motor - looks like your instincts were right. I've seen other 23se with trolling motors that have not cut thru the bulkhead, I wonder how they were mounted... As you suggest, I'm going to go with a rectangular hatch. Would you recommend Boat Outfitters as a source?
Parker got back to me and said that cutting thru the bulkhead was the way to go to gain access for mounting the trolling motor - looks like your instincts were right. I've seen other 23se with trolling motors that have not cut thru the bulkhead, I wonder how they were mounted... As you suggest, I'm going to go with a rectangular hatch. Would you recommend Boat Outfitters as a source?
sydngoose
Well-known member
If you can't reach the thru-bolts, than that is not a suitable location for mounting.
Would you be able to post a picture of where you want to install the TM?
I don't understand why you are struggling with thru-bolts as their is a very accessible
area at the bow to mount your baseplate. You CAN and SHOULD be able to reach 5
maybe all 6 bolts. If not, reposition your plate until you can.
Yes, 4200 is very appropriate for your adhesive sealant for this installation.
I saw on another forum (sorry, can't remember which one) one guys solution that I found interesting.
He first took his washers & nuts, stacked them up, then used a small drop of superglue and glued them together. He then took a boxed end wrench and taped an extention handle on it (again, can't remember exactly what he used, I think it was a wooden ruler). He then was able to place the nut/washer combination into the boxed in wrench then reach under the deck. He held it in place while he started the screw from above deck into the washer/nut combo under the deck.
He first took his washers & nuts, stacked them up, then used a small drop of superglue and glued them together. He then took a boxed end wrench and taped an extention handle on it (again, can't remember exactly what he used, I think it was a wooden ruler). He then was able to place the nut/washer combination into the boxed in wrench then reach under the deck. He held it in place while he started the screw from above deck into the washer/nut combo under the deck.
MartyL,
Sorry for the delay, just saw this. Yes, I would highly recommend Boat Outfitters. Like I've said in the past, their prices are high, but their quality is excellent. I've bought quite a few products from them and had several custom pieces made, and they've been top notch. If you're just looking for access and for additional storage, they have a "build your own door" tool that will probably work quite well for your application. My trapezoidal design was driven due to the need to fit an anchor through it with limited space, and was a pricey piece if you don't need that functionality.
Your other option is just to buy a standard glass-reinforced nylon access hatch from any of the manufacturers (I like Tempress's Cam-Lock products) that fits your area. It would likely be cheaper, but personally I like the look, function and performance of a custom Starboard hatch if it's in the budget.
Pelagic,
I had decided to use Boat Outfitters after looking at your other restore thread. I did use the 'build a door' option and ordered a 22x20 door which will yield 18x16 pass thru(I hope i fit..). I selected all the options and the door looks good on-line... It is supposed to arrive on Thursday so, if it doesn't rain, should be in by the weekend. Thanks again for your help with this..
Do you know anything about G10? I was going to order a backing plate and was considering using this.
I had decided to use Boat Outfitters after looking at your other restore thread. I did use the 'build a door' option and ordered a 22x20 door which will yield 18x16 pass thru(I hope i fit..). I selected all the options and the door looks good on-line... It is supposed to arrive on Thursday so, if it doesn't rain, should be in by the weekend. Thanks again for your help with this..
Do you know anything about G10? I was going to order a backing plate and was considering using this.
I'm not familiar with G10, but you don't need a backing plate on that surface. It's a cored bulkhead, so there's plenty of space to drill into, and there's no real load on that hatch other than the weight of the hatch itself. I'd recommend overdrilling the screw holes and backfilling with epoxy, as well as sealing the cutout with a couple layers of thin and then thickened epoxy, like I did on mine. That will give you plenty of support for the hatch and watertight integrity for the bulkhead.
If your cap in the bow area is like mine, then it's solid (if thin) fiberglass, so no over-drilling and backfilling is necessary. If you end up hitting a wood core for any reason, then yes, you'll need to protect that core. Keep in mind that there may be structural members running across the cap as well; you'll be able to see them when you install the hatch and can get a good look inside. As far as the holes in the cap go, I might give them a quick coat of epoxy to seal the "grain" of the fiberglass, but that's probably overkill. Can't hurt though.
As far as the backing plate for the TM, the G10 looks like it would probably be fine for that purpose. Aluminum would also be a good choice. There are others on here who have done these installs who may be able to chime in with more specific info than I have.
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You don’t need a backing plate for bow mount on Parkers IMO. Just use oversized SS washers and locknuts.
When drilling through deck surface or bow cap the proper sequence would be to over drill each hole, put tape under each, and fill with epoxy- not 4200. Let dry 24hrs and then re-drill with appropriate sized drill bit. This way you have a cuff of epoxy protecting your cored bow cap and a snug fit for your through bolt. Squirting silicone or 4200 in the hole is suboptimal.
When drilling through deck surface or bow cap the proper sequence would be to over drill each hole, put tape under each, and fill with epoxy- not 4200. Let dry 24hrs and then re-drill with appropriate sized drill bit. This way you have a cuff of epoxy protecting your cored bow cap and a snug fit for your through bolt. Squirting silicone or 4200 in the hole is suboptimal.
If the surface is cored, then yes, this is the correct procedure. Also, if cored, a backing plate is not as necessary, but won't hurt anything.
On the smaller models (at least on mine), the whole bow area is uncored, about 1/4-3/8" thick solid fiberglass. Hence not needing an epoxy plug, just something to seal the fiberglass itself from possible water absorption, and the need for a backing plate, as that's not likely to sufficiently support the motor on it's own.
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I am not an expert on this but just slightly larger to allow for an epoxy cuff- go up a drill size or two -thats all. A two part epoxy is what I use. You don’t usually need a filler mixed in for small holes.
Pelagic- accurate points yes. I was under the (incorrect) assumption that all Parker bow caps were of cored material like mine is.
Pelagic- accurate points yes. I was under the (incorrect) assumption that all Parker bow caps were of cored material like mine is.
When I installed mine my deck was cored. Once I drilled all of the holes I coated the "grain" of the wood with a thin layer of epoxy and allowed it to dry. Before I put the aluminum mounting plate down on the deck I put 4200 under it to help with spreading the load out.
Salty - thanks for the info.
Rseate, did you use Rhodan's mounting aluminum plate? Was it necessary or could you have mounted the TM directly on the cap? Have you had the boat out yet? Curious to see how that battery size works for you...
Rseate, did you use Rhodan's mounting aluminum plate? Was it necessary or could you have mounted the TM directly on the cap? Have you had the boat out yet? Curious to see how that battery size works for you...
You want to ensure that when you re-drill the new hole, there's no chance of accidentally breaking through the new epoxy barrier, which will make the whole process moot. I like to make sure that there's a minimum of 1/16" epoxy barrier, hence if you're drilling a 1/4" hole, use a 3/8" bit for the initial plug. On larger holes or ones with high possible loads, I'll go up a 1/4". Pay close attention to your drill shavings when you drill the new hole- if there's wood in them, you've broken through and need to start again.
For smaller holes where the bottom can be easily sealed, pure epoxy is fine.
Fishaddict
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Installed my trolling Minn Kota on 1801 with quick disconnect bracket. Sharing my experience in case somebody would have similar problem. Bow area of my boat was not flat with gap about 1/4’’ or so. Taped out area and filled it with epoxy plus cabosil mixture. Pressed bracket to its location and placed sacrificial screws in mounting holes. When epoxy was still curing removed screws and than pulled bracket off to over drill mounting holes on the deck and set it on 4200 and 6 screws and oversized washers.
FA, was your bow cap cored? Curious as to whether the design changed in later years.
When you say you pressed the bracket onto the curing epoxy and then pulled it back off to drill the holes, how did that work? Was there a barrier between the bracket and the epoxy to keep it from adhering?
Any pictures of the process or the final result?
