2820 fuel tank being pulled

[Brentons1045]

Have never seen thread of 2820 Parker fuel tank replacement, I’m pulling my 250 gallon tank this weekend so will document with pictures . 2008 and have leak , so pulling and putting brand new one in.

 

[tomc585]

Thats gonna be a sucky job.
Following.

 

[Brentons1045]

Thats gonna be a sucky job.
Following.

Not really actually I don’t know why people always get so freaked out about doing fuel tanks in these boats. They’re just dead center in the middle of the deck so you’re just pretty much get the dimensions from Parker and you just cut them out precisely once you do that you just put a new one in and re-glass the floor and it’s really not that big of a deal, a 250 gallon fuel tank cost me $3000 … The issue was that they used to use foam and it just rots them from the bottom. Luckily, I have friends that are really good at that type of stuff so I paid them to do it if you brought it to a marina yes it would cost you a lot of money, but to be honest, there’s no reason somebody with a half a brain couldn’t do it by themselves if you have the right tools I’ll be posting some pictures on here tomorrow

 

[warthog5]

The issue was that they used to use foam and it just rots them from the bottom.

Not exactly..

Alum needs air to make it's self protect skin....The absence of air mixed with water is what causes corrosion.

The trick is Keep the water away.

The 4lb density foam locks the tank into the boat. 200gal of fuel weighs 1300lbs..... A slamming hull and 6lag bolts are Not going to hold it.

So...How do you fix it? Answer: You keep the water away.

How do you do that?

Answer:

You start by cleaning....sanding and cleaning the tank. Then you coat it with 2 coats of rolled on Coal Tar epoxy.

Then the tank gets lowered and lagged in the boat.

Then you pour 4lbd density foam in and flush it off even with the top of the tank.

Then you bridge over the foam with fiberglass so if the piehole ever leaks water Never gets to the foam.
Then you put a limber hole thru the rear bulkhead that contains the tank so that any water that may /does get in there doesn't sit on the top of the tank. It goes thru that limber hole and onto the bilge.

You also up the wall thickness of the tank when you have it built..... So many were built of 1/8in.... You step it up to 3/16.

If it was 3/16 [lots of gal.] you go to 1/4in.

 

[Brentons1045]

Not exactly..

Alum needs air to make it's self protect skin....The absence of air mixed with water is what causes corrosion.

The trick is Keep the water away.

The 4lb density foam locks the tank into the boat. 200gal of fuel weighs 1300lbs..... A slamming hull and 6lag bolts are Not going to hold it.

So...How do you fix it? Answer: You keep the water away.

How do you do that?

Answer:

You start by cleaning....sanding and cleaning the tank. Then you coat it with 2 coats of rolled on Coal Tar epoxy.

Then the tank gets lowered and lagged in the boat.

Then you pour 4lbd density foam in and flush it off even with the top of the tank.

Then you bridge over the foam with fiberglass so if the piehole ever leaks water Never gets to the foam.
Then you put a limber hole thru the rear bulkhead that contains the tank so that any water that may /does get in there doesn't sit on the top of the tank. It goes thru that limber hole and onto the bilge.

You also up the wall thickness of the tank when you have it built..... So many were built of 1/8in.... You step it up to 3/16.

If it was 3/16 [lots of gal.] you go to 1/4in.

I agree , I’m not sure about the foam, I heard a lot people don’t use it anymore . It’s impossible to keep all water out of there . Also if no foam water can drain easier and way easier to keep area dry and keep moisture out. End of day not keeping boat another 15 years so won’t matter. These tanks meant to last 15-20 years. 8k everyone 15 years to do this isn’t that bad if you ask me lol. Considering all other boating issues