Brentons1045
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Not really actually I don’t know why people always get so freaked out about doing fuel tanks in these boats. They’re just dead center in the middle of the deck so you’re just pretty much get the dimensions from Parker and you just cut them out precisely once you do that you just put a new one in and re-glass the floor and it’s really not that big of a deal, a 250 gallon fuel tank cost me $3000 … The issue was that they used to use foam and it just rots them from the bottom. Luckily, I have friends that are really good at that type of stuff so I paid them to do it if you brought it to a marina yes it would cost you a lot of money, but to be honest, there’s no reason somebody with a half a brain couldn’t do it by themselves if you have the right tools I’ll be posting some pictures on here tomorrowThats gonna be a sucky job.
Following.
The issue was that they used to use foam and it just rots them from the bottom.
I agree , I’m not sure about the foam, I heard a lot people don’t use it anymore . It’s impossible to keep all water out of there . Also if no foam water can drain easier and way easier to keep area dry and keep moisture out. End of day not keeping boat another 15 years so won’t matter. These tanks meant to last 15-20 years. 8k everyone 15 years to do this isn’t that bad if you ask me lol. Considering all other boating issuesNot exactly..
Alum needs air to make it's self protect skin....The absence of air mixed with water is what causes corrosion.
The trick is Keep the water away.
The 4lb density foam locks the tank into the boat. 200gal of fuel weighs 1300lbs..... A slamming hull and 6lag bolts are Not going to hold it.
So...How do you fix it? Answer: You keep the water away.
How do you do that?
Answer:
You start by cleaning....sanding and cleaning the tank. Then you coat it with 2 coats of rolled on Coal Tar epoxy.
Then the tank gets lowered and lagged in the boat.
Then you pour 4lbd density foam in and flush it off even with the top of the tank.
Then you bridge over the foam with fiberglass so if the piehole ever leaks water Never gets to the foam.
Then you put a limber hole thru the rear bulkhead that contains the tank so that any water that may /does get in there doesn't sit on the top of the tank. It goes thru that limber hole and onto the bilge.
You also up the wall thickness of the tank when you have it built..... So many were built of 1/8in.... You step it up to 3/16.
If it was 3/16 [lots of gal.] you go to 1/4in.
Yeah, I understand that too. I mean, you can’t just fully enclose a fuel tank that will just create moisture from what I’ve heard also from all the Boat builders is that there’s no point of coding a fuel tank. It doesn’t work if it did, they would do it from the factory with every fuel tank Bonding aluminum plus aluminum stretches and flex with the fuel . at the end of the day fuel tank last 15 to 20 years you’re not gonna have the boat that long anyways I’m a reputable boat builder in my area built Romarine boats in Bristol installed the fuel tank. The guy is very knowledgeable and knows what he’s talking about. There is no possible way to keep water out of the foam no matter how secure you think you’re making it water will always find a way there and once it’s there, you’re right it just will sit there forever.Luther’s Welding in Bristol Rhode Island, manufactures commercial and recreational aluminum tanks. Unfortunately I went to them TWICE with previous older Glacier Bay (in 2004 GB went with polyethylene fuel tanks). Pre 2004 the tanks sat on long rubber strips in the bottom of the hulls, port starboard. Water would get between rubber and bottom on tank, creating pin hole leaks. First go round was with baffled 1/8” tanks (90 gallons each). 1) Don’t use 1/8”, pay the extra $ for 3/8” and 2) take the time to fix any where water can collect around tank.
Structural integrity is major challenge and one reason foaming in is beneficial. There is a big problem though with foam, it traps water next to the aluminum skins. Once there it’s not going away, just starts to slowly eat away at the tank.
Warthog5 describes one solution, keep the tanks completely sealed from water (not just the topside, all around). But it’s a boat. How many restoration pictures show the removal of saturated foam and rotting gas tanks?!
I don’t think it is an easy problem to solve, foaming creates contact points everywhere greatly improving stability. Space is limited and everyone wants large fuel capacity. Creating a dry space for a very large pocket of air means compromising elsewhere.
You mean 3/16" Been doing That for 30+ years.Don’t use 1/8”, pay the extra $ for 3/8”
[Coating]from what I’ve heard also from all the Boat builders is that there’s no point of coding a fuel tank.
One thing to remember after your new tank is installed and you go get that first tank of gas. The new tank won't allow you to put fuel in it very fast. I'm talking like 1 gallon per 2 or 3 minutes. Don't panic (like I did). Once you make it through about the first half of tank it will take fuel like normal and normal from then on. I think it has to purge all the air from pressure testing the tank but not really sure why it does that. BTW: The tank will be 1/8" thicker per USCG regulations. The Parker tanks were 1/8" originally and now have to be at least 3/16.Have never seen thread of 2820 Parker fuel tank replacement, I’m pulling my 250 gallon tank this weekend so will document with pictures . 2008 and have leak , so pulling and putting brand new one in.
When I had my tank built, I sent the original Parker drawings to Speedy Tank and they told me that now USCG regulations are 3/8"You mean 3/16" Been doing That for 30+ years.
[Coating]
That's BS. The Reason it's not done is it adds to cost... Boat manufactures don't worry about it because when it's Out of warranty...Their hands are Clean.
Aluminum thickness requirements (USCG) change based on the volume of the tank. It's on the speedy tank FAQ: https://speedytanks.com/tank-design-fabrication/When I had my tank built, I sent the original Parker drawings to Speedy Tank and they told me that now USCG regulations are 3/8"
One thing to remember after your new tank is installed and you go get that first tank of gas. The new tank won't allow you to put fuel in it very fast. I'm talking like 1 gallon per 2 or 3 minutes. Don't panic (like I did). Once you make it through about the first half of tank it will take fuel like normal and normal from then on. I think it has to purge all the air from pressure testing the tank but not really sure why it does that.
No clue what You are doing... Shaking my head... NO! Now... Did you forget to tell us that your tank has that Cockamamy new BS on it?
One thing about filling tanks that slows the filling process is the VENT. I've had custom tanks built with dual vents....[well not exactly.
A vent in the original location..... and a vent aft.... Those are "Y'd" together and then go single to the original exit location.
Why? Because if the tank can't vent properly... When filling the tank can't vent properly.... It Spits back on you fill it slower. When your filling 5-6gals...Not a big deal.....When your filling a 100gal's.... it is.
My dual vent method lets you fill as fast as the gas pump can go... This cuts easy 20min of fill time at gas station.
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