88 Center Console

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hampy

New member
Joined
Feb 16, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Hey everyone!
First time poster but been visiting since I bought my 88 Center Console last year and began the process of getting it to where she is now! I have a few questions which I am sure have been answered before but I can’t figure out.
In 88 all the models whether the pilot house or center console were the same running surface right? So they would all have the same dead rise? I have just always been curious what the dead rise actually is on the boat.
Second thing is what seems to be the consensus for size trim tabs needed to maximize performance of the boat in seas and lastly has anyone that fishes live bait frequently had any success plumbing the transom storage area into a high functioning livewell? I plumbed it and have ball valve to try and fill to top to reduce slosh but for obvious reasons (oval shaped, deeper,) I use the on deck well that I can take on or off and use the same plumbing for as is set up for transom area. I am
very careful with my bait so honestly have only tried it once and didn’t think it worked well enough. I was thinking maybe rounding the corners and putting a baffle in? Would love to save the deck space and not have that corner waited down. Look forward to being a part of the forum!!
 

Attachments

  • D52DD58C-95FE-43C6-9B2F-0EB6E84F4A38.jpeg
    D52DD58C-95FE-43C6-9B2F-0EB6E84F4A38.jpeg
    1.8 MB
I have a 2000 center console, 23 DV. I would assume yours is the same since the transom is enclosed. Deadrise should be 21 degrees.

I don't think a live well in the transom makes a ton of sense. There is already too much weight back there unlee you have moved the batteries to the console, which I did. better location is under your leaning post. By the picture it looks like you have the same setup as mine. Should already be plumbed for fill and gravity draining.
 
Dave-j thanks for the reply. I have the leaning post livewell now but use lots of live bait so need a second.
 
Deadrise: Easiest way to tell is 1 Strake = Med Deadrise 14deg ....2 Strakes = Deep Deadrise 21deg.

If the boat is out of the water? On trailer or bunks......Use a degree finder. Lay it on the bottom of the hull on STB side aprox 6in in front of transom....Measure and write that number down.....Now lay it on Port side in the same area.....Write that number down....add together and then divide by 2.....Thats your deadrise and it takes into account if the boat is sitting crooked.

Trim tabs for a 25ftr..... 12 X 24 wide....or 9 X 24 wide.....The width is what really helps.....Less input angle [which = less drag] but still gets the job done.... If you have 12in wide....You have to max the angle down....This causes more drag and kills your fuel milage. A exact like boat......side by side.....The one with wider tabs will get better mileage.
 
has anyone that fishes live bait frequently had any success plumbing the transom storage area into a high functioning livewell? I plumbed it and have ball valve to try and fill to top to reduce slosh but for obvious reasons (oval shaped, deeper,) I use the on deck well that I can take on or off and use the same plumbing for as is set up for transom area. I am very careful with my bait so honestly have only tried it once and didn’t think it worked well enough. I was thinking maybe rounding the corners and putting a baffle in? Would love to save the deck space and not have that corner waited down. Look forward to being a part of the forum!!

In theory, there's no reason why the transom livewell can't work. The new 21SC designs have it there from the factory. Of course, they're designed as livewells so it's a different ball game. Realize that you're definitely going to add weight back aft, which is the last place you really want it.

The things to think about are keeping the well full, and eliminating areas where the bait can hurt itself. For the latter, rounding out the corners will help a lot, but you'll lose capacity. As far as keeping the well full, your best bet is to install a center drain (if the fishbox doesn't already have one) and to utilize the type of pipe overflow that purpose built livewells use to regulate water level. The top of the pipe is set to the desired water level, and once the water level reaches the top of the pipe it spills over into the pipe and out the drain. Even if the box already has a drain, you'll probably have to increase the size so that it has the capacity to drain the water faster than the pump can push it in; otherwise the well will overflow. Your ball valve idea, while sound in principle, is never going to keep the well at a constant level; no matter how carefully you set it it will always eventually drain or overflow the well.

You'll also need to replace the factory covers with a plate that is secured and sealed to the top of the well, with a latched gasketed door to prevent leakage. The width of the box means that it's going to slosh; a watertight lid with a high water level will cut down on this. I'd stay away from a baffle, since it's just something else for the bait to beat itself up on (just my thought; I've never seen a livewell with a baffle in it).

Another thing to consider would be how much you're going to use it as a livewell, vs. how much you use it as a fishbox. Realize that you're not going to be able to get one setup that does both well; in order for it to be a good livewell, it'll be less effective as a fishbox due to the decreased size and the smaller opening for the door. So, if it gets heavy use as a fishbox or storage and only occasionally serves as a livewell, I would suggest replacing your current leaning post/livewell combination with a new model that has a larger livewell. Less new plumbing, less complication, better results. If you absolutely need the double livewell capacity, then you may be able to make the fishbox work.

Either way, be sure to document your solution and post it on here!
 
Thanks for the reply pelagic2530. So I decided to use the the thru hull I had that went to my existing on deck well and re plumbed it with a ball valve and put that tank right behind leaning post. When I redid fuel tank and deck I created an extra hatch for storage there I rarely use so now I only lose access to that but still have full access to everything else and the leaning post livewell. I am have just tested it with rope around the tank and too the leaning post but am going to make more semi permanent tie downs on it this weekend. It works better and moving that weight made a tremendous difference.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1400.jpg
    IMG_1400.jpg
    1.9 MB
Back
Top