91 Parker CC Fuel tank replacement

[Toodee]

Nice progress! Is the fastened 2x4 ledge approach for the tank hatch the most common way to reinstall the cut hatch? Did you screw the cut hatch into the 2x4s?

I’m not sure if it’s the most common way but it was the easiest for me to think of. I used two coats of Epoxy on the 2X4’s. Then when I drilled into them to install them, I dabbed Marine 4200 for the holes and dabbed 4200 on the mounting hardware. The deck is solid in itself without the fiberglass I’m going to lay.

I screwed down the cut hatch with 2” stainless screws. Tapered the holes to hide the screw heads. Covered the heads with epoxy. Measured the screw holes and logged the measurements if the fuel tank ever needs to be replaced again (hopefully never but maybe 20-30 years from now). I’ll be dead by then.

 

[Toodee]

Fiberglass is down. Next step will be to sand down the glass and entire deck to repaint it.

 

[Toodee]

Sanded the entire deck. 80 grit

 

[tomc585]

Seeing your unmounted console so far forward has me thinking....
How far forward could we reinstall the console without ill effects?
It would create more room in the aft end.
Rarely does anyone ever want to sit up front on my boat.

 

[Toodee]

Seeing your unmounted console so far forward has me thinking....
How far forward could we reinstall the console without ill effects?
It would create more room in the aft end.
Rarely does anyone ever want to sit up front on my boat.

I moved my console / T top / leaning post 6” closer to the bow. What a difference that makes being able to work a fish at the stern between my bait tank and the engine. Ride quality feels the same. Whoever says 6” isn’t a lot, it’s plenty!! Lol.

 

[tomc585]

If I was doing a tank and floor replacement.....I was thinking of at least a foot on my 1801. Since I dont have a casting platform and the batteries are still in the stern boxes I would think it would help with the ride.

 

[Toodee]

Progress

 

[tomc585]

Looks good. Saved a ton DIY

 

[Efx]

Looks great. It’s going to be like a new boat with that clean deck.

 

[Toodee]

Decided not to go with Kiwigrip. Only because I’m a ding dong and it required several steps to acquire certain no skid texture and the instructions said not to do a large area in one shot.. so I decided in Rustoleum Topside with non-skid additive. It’s sold at my local Lowe’s home improvement store for a fraction of the cost of Kiwigrip. I’m glad I did. Easy to roll on and it matches the entire boat. Here is a picture of the first coat with the non-skid additive. It has plenty of non skid already. I might just roll a coat of paint without non skid for the second coat.

 

[Toodee]

For those interested, it’s Rustoleum Oyster White. Matches the old school Parker color almost exactly.

 

[Efx]

I’ve been using interlux perfection with the added nonskid. It’s been a good two part product but I am interested in the rustoleum product. It is much less expensive and one part is much easier to manage. I’ll be next to do this as my 1994 17’ tank is leaking.

 

[Toodee]

And that’s it folks. Final coat of deck paint went down. I’m happy with the results. Bait tank / leaning post install don't need updates for this thread.

Total cost with new fuel tank, epoxy, fiberglass, wood, decking supplies… roughly $2,000. I saved several thousand dollars tacking this project myself. Hopefully I encouraged others to do the same.

 

[tomc585]

Looks good in the pictures

 

[PastTheBarb]

Good job!!!
Looks like you did a great job fairing the panel back in. I dont see any seam!

 

[Efx]

I’m about to start mine. Thanks for all the photos as they help a lot.

 

[MadGar]

My experience with the rustoleum paint on my 2320.

I too used the Oyster white and you are correct, almost perfect match of original Parker color. I used it in my cabin and on my deck. In the cabin it was great, mtached perfect lasted until I sold the boat.

On the deck, it looked great but over a short period time it got slicker then sh*t, I was very disappointed becasue it was almost dangerous while fishing and the weather, waves were bad. I eventually had my young nephew wipe out while reeling in a nice fish and a wave hit us. I eventually sanded it down and replaced with Kiwi Grip, the beige color. It looked nice and worked really well for grip for many seasons, however keeping it clean was a huge pain in the butt. If I used KiwGrip again I would use the Gray color, not beige.

If I had it all to do over (I have since sold the boat) I would have used a better 2 part paint like interlux perfection or awlgrip with the rustoleum non skid flakes (read warthogs deck finishing in his 2530 post), or I may have tried Pettit EZ deck non skid paint (I hear good things about it ).

I am not suggesting you will have the same problem, maybe you did a better than I did painting your deck. Just want you aware that the rustoleum 1 part paint is nice looking, great price, but didnt last outside on deck for more than a season and got dangerously slick for me. Hopefully you will be fine with it.

 

[Bodick93]

The old 95 gallon fuel tank had a good run. 30 years till it started leaking.
Man, I would have been inclined to add epoxy and a top shield to shed water on to the method that lasted 30 years.
I also understand you are the project manager, and take all input under advisement. Looks great.

 

[Toodee]

Just checking in and wanted to let you guys know the Rustoleum nonskid deck is holding up like a champ and the new tank is doing great. I even did the gunnel tops with the Rustoleum nonskid.

 

[Efx]

Excellent! RPM makes great products. I use their products in laboratories. Finishes on boats are critical for the user experience. FYI- I also have a tank from American tanks and it works perfectly.