Batteries
- Thread starter Regulate It
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warthog5":28itm7dp said:
One other thing (that is controversial with some folks).
My bilge pumps are un-fused.
My reasoning is that I don't want anything in between my batteries and my pumps that can fail without me knowing it.
My 'float switches' are actually electronic 'Water Witch 101's' that don't have any moving parts.
https://waterwitchinc.com/product/model ... ge-switch/
A failed float switch or a burnt fuse can cost you your boat because you will never know either one has failed until it is too late.
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Davidwolfe2
Member
What happens to the factory selector switches after you install the BEP cluster. I have a 2017 2510 with twin 150's and am fearful to run both batteries and get stranded. I drift, or anchor with 2 livewells running, radio, and 16" simrad / AP44 autopilot running. After a few hours battery 1 is toast. After the boat sits for a week my carbon monoxide alarm goes off indicating low battery(when both selector switches are off) so I also think i have a bad battery or a draw on battery 1. Its a new boat and I haven't investigated it myself. Its going back to the dealer soon, so maybe this wont be a problem in the future. For now i keep it on a trickle charger on the trailer. I was thinking of installing a 3rd battery and the blue seas ACR to create more of a house battery type of situation. How would the BEP cluster be better or different than the blue seas ACR?
Brent
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Hi Why not first use both batteries (type, size and capacity not stated) and install a battery voltage meter or state of charge like Victron 600 series or Link Lite before adding another batteryDavidwolfe2":2whfciqe said:
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Brent
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If you are running down the house battery, it will shorten the useful life span significantly. Look at Warthog 2530 project. He installed a giant house battery. To see the pics, use Firefox and the Photo bucket extension. It does sound like a second house battery is needed or one large one. A guage to check the battery would help, too to avoid killing it.Brent":r1xoqcy2 said:
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warthog5
Well-known member
I throw them away....They are no longer on the boat.
Just did my 32nd BEP Cluster Install last week.
I explained that in my other write up. Blue Seas makes some good products...I use a Lot of them. I've installed the Blue Seas Add a Battery 1 time in the past.... They take up to much room....Not the actually componets, but the cabling...Heavy gage cable will only turn in just so tight of a radius.
I bet you only have 2 Gp 24 Dual purpose batteries on the boat..... Right?
If so....You have No House battery and you need one.....In fact....You sound like a candite for 2 House batteries wired in parallel. twice the amp hr rating, but still 12V.
I don't use dual purpose batteries!
I use starting batteries to start and run the motors....and use Deep Cycle's for and House load. They are designed to do the job Better for the task at hand.
About your dealer installing a BEP Cluster. Hmmmmmm? Just cause their a dealer doesn't mean they know what they are doing. I'm not saying that can't.....But I have seen dealers screw some things up...Because they are a dealer, doesn't mean they are familiar with some things.....I've seen'em screw up X-Ducer installs.
I'm not familiar with YOUR boat....I don't know how much room you have for batteries. I run a single DF-300 and have a Gp27 Starting battery. For the House battery I run a Gp 4D Deep Cycle. I built a custom stainless angle battery tray for it. It has the equivalent power of 2 1/2 Gp27 Deep cycles. Why? Because my son wanted a Sterio amp. They are Power Hungry Suckers. We sit with motor off playing it on the beach.
The SRM-4D
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/rec ... deep-cycle
Davidwolfe2
Member
Thank you for that insight. I will contact BEP and see if I can get them to send me a copy of the installation instructions. This might be something i can get done before fishing season is upon me. I have lots of room for a 3rd battery.
warthog5
Well-known member
It's online.
It's a PDF file.
http://www.bepmarine.com/en/716-sq-140a-dvsr
Click on "Tech Data"
BEP will not talk to you.....I've tried.
Note that the primary 10ga wires on the back I change every time. This is to get rid of the stupid automotive connectors they use.
That's something most people would not even give a 2nd look, figuring it's factory......It's supposed to be that way.
It's bean counters being cheap is what it is.
Wire the RED little wire to the Start switch on the Engine side.....Look....Look and Look again to make SURE when that Red wire is cut.......That it is cut on the correct side to wire to the Start switch.
Note that this info I'm giving you is NOT in the online instructions......BUT is in the instructions when you buy the unit.It has a drawing.
It's a PDF file.
http://www.bepmarine.com/en/716-sq-140a-dvsr
Click on "Tech Data"
BEP will not talk to you.....I've tried.
Note that the primary 10ga wires on the back I change every time. This is to get rid of the stupid automotive connectors they use.
That's something most people would not even give a 2nd look, figuring it's factory......It's supposed to be that way.
It's bean counters being cheap is what it is.
Wire the RED little wire to the Start switch on the Engine side.....Look....Look and Look again to make SURE when that Red wire is cut.......That it is cut on the correct side to wire to the Start switch.
Note that this info I'm giving you is NOT in the online instructions......BUT is in the instructions when you buy the unit.It has a drawing.
Wart, I think I can remember this little red wire that you are referring to. It was like a jumper between the electronics switch and??? Can't remember exactly where? I didn't do anything with it as I don't recall being told to in my instructions to. Wherever they had it connected is where it stayed. Why would they send it made that way if you have to modify it? As someone who has done the install, would you mind explaining what's up again? I think you mentioned something about putting a small draw on the battery even when all was switched off?
warthog5
Well-known member
They give you a few options. It's on the sheet that is not on the Net.....If Damn Photobucket would get their crap together I would have already made a copy and posted it here.
But The RED wire is a Loop in the Jell on the back side of the Relay....There is the Black wire also and it must be hooked to GND. Both Red and Black are about 20ga wires.You cut the Red wire away from the Gell on the end that is closest to the Black wire. Then that get's a 3/8in wire end on it and hooked to the same terminal that the POS. cable going to the motor.
OK here's what happens if you do nothing but hook the Black up and leave the RED alone and this is the way the BEP Clusters were before they were Digital. They are all Digital Now.
It wil keep the Relay enegerized...This pulls Milliamps......But it will pull your batteries down.....And this is with all the switches in the OFF position.
By doing the cut and hooking it where I said. When you turn the Start Battery to OFF you are taking the power away from the Realy also. This stops that Milliamp usage and saves your batteries better.
But The RED wire is a Loop in the Jell on the back side of the Relay....There is the Black wire also and it must be hooked to GND. Both Red and Black are about 20ga wires.You cut the Red wire away from the Gell on the end that is closest to the Black wire. Then that get's a 3/8in wire end on it and hooked to the same terminal that the POS. cable going to the motor.
OK here's what happens if you do nothing but hook the Black up and leave the RED alone and this is the way the BEP Clusters were before they were Digital. They are all Digital Now.
It wil keep the Relay enegerized...This pulls Milliamps......But it will pull your batteries down.....And this is with all the switches in the OFF position.
By doing the cut and hooking it where I said. When you turn the Start Battery to OFF you are taking the power away from the Realy also. This stops that Milliamp usage and saves your batteries better.
Thanks for the further explanation Wart. I do remember seeing that red wire. I did connect that small black to ground per the instructions. I guess I'll see how much the draw will affect my batteries in a few weeks/month when I get back to mine after it's winter hibernation. I was last on mine around Christmas so even if I don't get down to it until the end of March that will only be 3 months. The milliamperes draw shouldn't be to hard on the battery but I do wish that I caught that before I mounted it as that's an easy fix. Thanks again for the reply.
Brent
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Warthog
I use Firefox and installed this extension
Photobucket fixer
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... ket-fixer/
I can see your pics and save them to PC
I use Firefox and installed this extension
Photobucket fixer
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... ket-fixer/
I can see your pics and save them to PC
warthog5
Well-known member
shawnee83 You need to make the Red wire change. The pre Digital would kill the batteries in 3 months.
Which is what you basically have without the Red wire change ,as I described. You should be able to make the change in 15min if you have the tools available at the boat.
Brent..... Yes I meant to thank you for that.
Which is what you basically have without the Red wire change ,as I described. You should be able to make the change in 15min if you have the tools available at the boat.
Brent..... Yes I meant to thank you for that.
warthog5
Well-known member
Thanks for posting that pic Wart. That makes it very clear what part of the digital control the red wire should remain connected to. As to your earlie comment on the small black ground having automotive ends, totally agree and it drives me crazy. I did cut that crap off of mine and put a proper marine heat shrink ring terminal on it. All of my connections on my new neg bus in the bilge have proper heat shrink ring terminals now and then I coated it with the dielectric grease. I don't use anything but heat shrink connections anywhere I do wiring on my boat including in the cabin. Not sure why ABYC doesn't make that part of their codes so manufactures can't cheap out on it.
