Battery replacement

[StrayDog]

You will have no problems using AGMs. I’d be doubtful of lithiums, since I’m not yet convinced they’ve sorted out the issues they’ve had in the past. Same with gel cells, as they don’t like charging voltages over 14v. A standard outboard alternator will eventually roast them.

Pelagic, Thanks for the response. I know my Evinrude Etec G2’s are unique in todays outboard arena. I purchased my 2520xl less than two years ago and the engines have been exceptional.

During my time with this boat I’ve been going thru all it’s systems. As I said I’m now reworking the whole battery system. Never used AGM’s before but they sound promising. I’m also impressed with the concept of BEP’s battery management concept. I’ve followed your and Warthog’s input and am looking forward to completing the project.

 

[StrayDog]

You will have no problems using AGMs. I’d be doubtful of lithiums, since I’m not yet convinced they’ve sorted out the issues they’ve had in the past. Same with gel cells, as they don’t like charging voltages over 14v. A standard outboard alternator will eventually roast them.

I will have two high amperage loads other than engines connected to my start batteries.
1. Lewmar profish 1000 windlass
and
2. Bow & stern thrusters.

For my House bank I’m considering a pair of Duracell Ultra BCI Group 31M 12V 105AH 800CCA AGM Deep Cycle Marine batteries. Would it b a bad idea to use these same deep cycle batteries (1ea. Port & Stbd engine) as crank batteries.

 

[pelagic2530]

I will have two high amperage loads other than engines connected to my start batteries.
1. Lewmar profish 1000 windlass
and
2. Bow & stern thrusters.

For my House bank I’m considering a pair of Duracell Ultra BCI Group 31M 12V 105AH 800CCA AGM Deep Cycle Marine batteries. Would it b a bad idea to use these same deep cycle batteries (1ea. Port & Stbd engine) as crank batteries.

For the windlass, connecting it to the output side of one of your cranking battery switches will be just fine. You’re only going to be using the windlass when the engines are running, so the alternator will be providing voltage to the start batteries and therefore the windlass as well.

For the bow (and stern, wow! Looking forward to seeing this project) thrusters, you’ve got me there. My gut feeling would be to wire them to the cranking batteries for the same reason as the windlass, but I’d need to investigate what the manufacturers instructions are.

As far as the house batteries, I assume you’re talking about using two additional GP31 batteries for your cranking batteries, for a total of 4? The Duracells are marketed as being appropriate for cranking as well as deep cycle use. Normally I’d say GP31s are overkill as cranking batteries, but with the amount of heavy loads you’re going to be putting on them with the thrusters and windlass, it might be justified. Note that that’s going to be a lot of weight, so pay attention to where you mount them.

 

[warthog5]

My theory on Bow / Stern thrusters.... Tie those to the Start batteries also, along with the windless.

Think about the use of thrusters.... You idle up to the dock..[Engine Running] You kink engines in Neutral....Bow thrusters engaged...Your now tied to dock......Engines shut down.

No on Deep Cycles for Starting.

 

[StrayDog]

For the windlass, connecting it to the output side of one of your cranking battery switches will be just fine. You’re only going to be using the windlass when the engines are running, so the alternator will be providing voltage to the start batteries and therefore the windlass as well.

For the bow (and stern, wow! Looking forward to seeing this project) thrusters, you’ve got me there. My gut feeling would be to wire them to the cranking batteries for the same reason as the windlass, but I’d need to investigate what the manufacturers instructions are.

As far as the house batteries, I assume you’re talking about using two additional GP31 batteries for your cranking batteries, for a total of 4? The Duracells are marketed as being appropriate for cranking as well as deep cycle use. Normally I’d say GP31s are overkill as cranking batteries, but with the amount of heavy loads you’re going to be putting on them with the thrusters and windlass, it might be justified. Note that that’s going to be a lot of weight, so pay attention to where you mount them.

Palag

 

[PastTheBarb]

My two main concerns with lithium ion batteries are if they are stored in a space that can be flooded a serious firs could insue, and a lithium fire cant be extinguished easily. 2. They can handle a lot of banging around. If you are going to use them be sure they are well secured and in a space not likely to flood.
Never put them in the bilge.

 

[StrayDog]

Pelagic and Warthog
Thanks for response & for all the time you give to CP.

Agreed, 4-gp31’s are extra weight but with all my loads I felt it prudent to go larger. A lot of electronics and a bait tank that runs day & night
FYI, there’s a 5th AGM battery (Northstar SPS M105B) under the V-berth (photos) dedicated to the bow thruster and charged by crank batt circuit. Windless cables run to stern start batt but have considered going here instead. The stern thruster is powered by the other crank battery.

i am moving the batteries forward I mounted a second Bowmar hatch forward of the factory stern compartment (photo). My 2520 173gal fuel tank is athwartship so this space between stringers and bulkheads was left empty. I’m building in a floor to support & capture the 4 batteries, hoses will b rerouted, all batt cables replaced.

I want to put the BEP 2-engine, 3-bank cluster above deck in a weather proof, latched box. I’m interested If either of you know of one you would recommend.

Please comment if y’all have any insights, cautions , or comments.

 

[warthog5]

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/glove-box-with-loncoin-non-skid-insert

 

[StrayDog]

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/glove-box-with-loncoin-non-skid-insert

Thanks for the tip. That’s a nice looking unit but too deep for my chosen location. However, they say the will customize to order. This could b the answer.

You always have useful input.
Thanks.

 

[pelagic2530]

Thanks for the tip. That’s a nice looking unit but too deep for my chosen location. However, they say the will customize to order. This could b the answer.

You always have useful input.
Thanks.

If you’re going to be customizing a box, this was just posted: BEP Custom Switch Box

If it were me, I’d have them make a box deep enough to accommodate the knobs of the BEP switch, and then flush mount the switch to the back panel of the box. See if they can make the back panel from 1/4” material so the thickness isn’t an issue for the flush mount. I’d also leave space for a main power breaker, windlass breaker, and a 24hr fuse block to be flush mounted as well, which would keep all your need-to-access distribution components together and easily accessible.

 

[warthog5]

Straydog is using a twin Engine BEP , which is larger.

Yes Straydog.... Call them and have the depth altered.... That one shold have enough room for the Surface mount breaker in the box also.

 

[pelagic2530]

Straydog is using a twin Engine BEP , which is larger.

Yes Straydog.... Call them and have the depth altered.... That one shold have enough room for the Surface mount breaker in the box also.

Right, but clearly the original post was of a custom made box, so I’d imagine they’d be willing to make it to whatever depth, dimensions and characteristics the customer wants. Based on the poster’s feedback, sounds like it’s rather more affordable than having BO do a custom job. I’ve had several projects custom made by BO, and while they do great work they’re very proud of it . This may be another, more financially savvy option.

 

[fronzn]

Pelagic and Warthog
Thanks for response & for all the time you give to CP.

Agreed, 4-gp31’s are extra weight but with all my loads I felt it prudent to go larger. A lot of electronics and a bait tank that runs day & night
FYI, there’s a 5th AGM battery (Northstar SPS M105B) under the V-berth (photos) dedicated to the bow thruster and charged by crank batt circuit. Windless cables run to stern start batt but have considered going here instead. The stern thruster is powered by the other crank battery.

i am moving the batteries forward I mounted a second Bowmar hatch forward of the factory stern compartment (photo). My 2520 173gal fuel tank is athwartship so this space between stringers and bulkheads was left empty. I’m building in a floor to support & capture the 4 batteries, hoses will b rerouted, all batt cables replaced.

I want to put the BEP 2-engine, 3-bank cluster above deck in a weather proof, latched box. I’m interested If either of you know of one you would recommend.

Please comment if y’all have any insights, cautions , or comments.

That empty compartment is nice! I'm looking to replace my hatch. What size/model hatch did you go with for the bilge battery compartment? What is the small hatch for? Did you recess the frame into the deck? Thanks

 

[StrayDog]

That empty compartment is nice! I'm looking to replace my hatch. What size/model hatch did you go with for the bilge battery compartment? What is the small hatch for? Did you recess the frame into the deck? Thanks

My Parker is a 2005’, 2530XL SC. It’s important to confirm we’re talking about the same stringer design.
- What year and model is yours?
- Have you confirmed that area is empty?

Your questions:
Hatch: size & model:
- Bomar makes a hatch that fits this compartment perfectly; so no custom order. I found the best price for this hatch at Hamilton Marine in Maine
- Ph # (207) 548-6302);
- MFG #, 760736
- ITEM #, BOM-S40128
- Size
Cutout X: 30.50"
Cutout Y: 24.50"
OD Flange X: 32.668"
OD Flange Y: 26.668"
Clear View X: 28.245"
Clear View Y: 22.245"
- Price: From Hamilton $1300, included shipping & tax. Hamilton buys from Bomar in quantity at a discounted price; normally $1940.00

What is my small hatch for:
- My Pro Mariner, 4 bank, battery charger lives there.
- The hole was cut, then the foam was removed, & the compartment painted before installation.

Did I recess frame into deck:
- No. the SS Frame is approx 1/8” tall. If an issue you could:
- Route a recess, but that would invite more water onto the hatch, especially when open.
- Instead: you could round or bevel the upper perimeter of the frame if concerned about trip hazard.

 

[fronzn]

Thanks for all the info. I have a 2004 2520. I'm so I'm not sure if that spot is empty. I was planning on replacing the broken factory bilge hatch but increasing the size to the max in the existing bilge compartment like warthog did. What size is the aftmost centerline hatch?

Did you choose that type over the QD (one center bolt head) type for any reason?

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/pro...--quick-release---trim-ring-gasket-51434.html
Really appreciate the info.

 

[StrayDog]

Thanks for all the info. I have a 2004 2520. I'm so I'm not sure if that spot is empty. I was planning on replacing the broken factory bilge hatch but increasing the size to the max in the existing bilge compartment like warthog did. What size is the aftmost centerline hatch?

Did you choose that type over the QD (one center bolt head) type for any reason?

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/pro...--quick-release---trim-ring-gasket-51434.html
Really appreciate the info.

Is yours a deep “V” or Modified “V”. Most deep V’s (due to the deeper bilge) use a long narrow tank which would consume the compartment in question.
I have attached a stringer drawing for the 2520xl.

My main objective is to keep the bilge, batteries, and any wiring below deck as dry as possible chose the hatches you see in the picture because the number of dogs, a total of 8 includes the one on the “D” ring handle. The ability to apply pressure to the hatch gasket with multiple dogs seals the deck in the worst conditions. In good conditions the single perimeter mounted handle allows for easy opening and removal of the hatch lid.