Bow Rail Question: Want to Run some Wires in it (?)

[ReelTimeCapt]

My 1992 2310 W/A has a factory stainless steel bowrail and I am interested in running a few 12V electrical wires though it for a bow pulpit mounted light and have the following question(s):

1 - Is the bow rail fully hollow where each vertical strute meets the horizontal rail?

2- Has anyone attempted this and if so, can you share any tips for the best way to drill the holes (bit type) and pull the wires?

Thank and Best Regadrs to All,
RTC <><

 

[Outta Here]

I believe the horizontal tube will be hollow. Each standard will be welded to horizontal tube (no hole at intersections).

Also, the hollow horizontal tube has a stud welded at beginning and end (as do the standards), therefore all ends are solid. The studs are what secures railing to deck cap.

Not too hard to loosen 2 or 3 standards, might be able to drill small hole (where horizontal rail meets deck cap) beside stud to fish wire.

 

[pj_elia]

I'm interested in this. Would be a good set-up for my night crabbing.

I think where the verticals connect to the top rail will be closed off. It makes no sense to have holes drilled there.

 

[Megabyte]

Not too hard to loosen 2 or 3 standards, might be able to drill small hole (where horizontal rail meets deck cap) beside stud to fish wire.

Another option...

Instead of using fish tape to pull the wire, put a shop-vac on one end of the railing (after drilling your access holes), and feed a piece of nylon line (parachute cord works well) in the other end. The vacuum will suck the line through the pipe, which you can then use to pull your wires.

This method works for t-tops too. :wink:

 

[ReelTimeCapt]

Thank you - That's a great idea and this weekend I plan to go down to the boat and give that some thought. I need to peek under the gunnel and see if I can get to where the deck cap of the horiz rail meets the deck. If I can drill a small pilot hole from teh bottom up, it may be a viable approach. RTC<><

 

[Outta Here]

One advantage of a 3-piece hull is you can get to stuff. Start at either corner and remove 4 or 5 standards. Twist rail out (it's very flexible). Now you can drill a hole in bottom without standing on your head.

Stainless is tricky to drill. Seems the metal gets hot and changes molecular structure, read "gets harder to drill". Best bet is to use a new cobalt or titanium premium bit and go slow.