De-activating reverse trailer brakes

[Mike S]

I have standard surge brakes on my Five Star trailer and would like to disable the reverse locking function. I have problems when I use the front hitch on the truck when moving the boat without power to the trailer.

Any help appreciated.

 

[windknotnc]

There should be a lever or a hole where a pin goes that prevents the ball from pushing the actuator/master cylinder plunger. Who makes your brake actuator?

 

[Mike S]

There should be a lever or a hole where a pin goes that prevents the ball from pushing the actuator/master cylinder plunger. Who makes your brake actuator?

Not sure... whatever they used at the factory. It's a 2006 tandem axle Five Star with brakes on only one axle. The boat is stored, so I will have to go look at it to determine the maker, if it is indicated on the actuator unit.

I would REALLY like to convert to SS hydraulic disk brakes, but have other work to do on the boat.

 

[windknotnc]

Do you have a picture of the trailer actuator?

 

[BradH]

There should be a lever or a hole where a pin goes that prevents the ball from pushing the actuator/master cylinder plunger. Who makes your brake actuator?

This should do it.

We sometimes used a scrap of 1/4" aluminum on the top or side of the slide to keep it from pushing in. C clamp held it in place.

 

[warthog5]

There are several ways to do this.

A 4X4 block of wood held in place with a bungy cord.
Wiring temp hooked to your battery to activate the back up solenoid.

 

[Mike S]

Thanks! When I get over to the boat, I'll try these fixes.

Unfortunately I bought the boat and trailer and did not get any instructional documents.

 

[DaleH]

I would REALLY like to convert to SS hydraulic disk brakes, but have other work to do on the boat.

I have a few friends (tuna fishermen who trailer their boats to the bite) that did that ... and it was not only an expen$ive project ... they didn't last either. Their concept of the ideal braking system is now a HUGE tow vehicle ...

 

[warthog5]

I'm sure a lot have had good and bad stories to tell about how well or how poorly their brake setup lasted.

Here's my observation on it.


Most trailers are stored outside and on bare ground.

The bare ground has a daily dose of dew and moisture coming up out of the ground as the temperature changes. It will stay damp under a trailer where the ground is not exposed to the sun for a much longer time each day. Sometimes it will take days for the ground to dry up after a rain.

This moisture keeps the braking systems wet as it comes out of the ground for longer periods of time.

Knock on wood!....... I've not had any problems with mine. Kodiak Cad plated brakes [Rotor & Caliper]

But it sits on concrete under a covered RV shelter.

 

[lruzzelli]

When you upgrade you might want to check into elect/hydraulic brakes when you go to disc and then the brakes only operate when you use the tow vehicle brake pedal.

 

[Mike S]

I tow with an F350 diesel crew cab. No problems with that part of the deal.

I store my boat and trailer inside an air conditioned building on a concrete floor. But the previous owner kept it on the trailer parked under a tarp cover. Other than the problem I described in my first post,I have no functional problems with the trailer brakes, but I am always looking to optimize.

 

[warthog5]

elect/hydraulic brakes

That is the optimum setup and one that I would think would be required if you towed in the mountains.

As coming down the mountain the surge brakes would be applied all the time and burn them up pretty easy.

 

[Mike S]

elect/hydraulic brakes

That is the optimum setup and one that I would think would be required if you towed in the mountains.

As coming down the mountain the surge brakes would be applied all the time and burn them up pretty easy.

I have towed from the SF Bay Area to southern Baja (BCS) with the surge brakes. A thousand miles of mountains. Will go again this summer. Will have the brakes worked on before I make the trip.