Drum to disk conversion -- installation #2

[gw204]

Surprisingly, the rest doesn't seem to be too bad. There was a break in the steel lines and I think that's was made it all go south. My guess is that all the fluid got pumped out and then it sucked up salt water when the boat was pulled out.

I bought all flexible lines to replace the steel garbage.

 

[TomS]

Yep, I found a similar problem with mine. Looked like the stainless lines rusted out, cylinder got drained and went to crap from there.

I started this job thanks to this thread, and was amazed to see that my old drums were 10x worse than the pics in this thread - there is no way I had any brake control left, even if the stainless hydraulic tubing wasn't completely rusted out

Anyhow, I also bought the Kodiak disk brakes and new galvanized hubs (for the non-brake axle) and got everything installed with only a few minor issues. I was going to get the Tie-Downs but after doing a little research, there were lots of horror-stories and I didn't want to take the risk - so I paid a little more for the Kodiaks.

I discovered that the actuator on my trailer was welded to the frame and there was no way I was getting it off. So I called Eastern Marine and they were able to help me get what I needed all together. They didn't advertise it, but they had a version of my existing actuator (Titan/Dyco Model 60) with a master cylinder that was designed for disk brakes.

I also used a manual reverse lock-out valve, rather than one of the solenoids that mounts to the master cylinder. My car and my friends with trucks don't seem to have the 5th pin that is required for the reverse lockout solenoid. Now I can just open/close a valve when I need to enable/disable the brakes and it will hopefully be one less thing to rust up, or have wiring problems, etc.. down the road.

I only trailer twice per season, so simpler was better.

Again, thanks to this thread, I was able to do this myself without any problems, and I have never done anything like this before. I also understand exactly how the actuator and all the components work now, which will help with any future problems down the road.

I've got to say, once I had everything installed, the system primed, etc.. it was a great feeling to engage the brakes as a buddy spun the wheel (up on a jack).

-- Tom

 

[gw204]

Hey Tom, can you beat these beauties?

Nice 'eh????

 

[TomS]

Dang, those things are brand new, why are you replacing them?

I think I got ya beat!

-- Tom

 

[Megabyte]

Brian... as bad as yours were, I think Toms are worse.

There is an idea for a thread... "Show us your nasty trailer brakes". :mrgreen:

 

[Porkchunker]

Well I got back from my business trip to LA, and it is drizzling.

Was going to tear down the acutator, clean, grease, and reassemble. But with the drizzle, I decided to oil and grease without a teardown. Was able to get an oil can down onto the internal rollers, and grease the big roller on top. Actuator moves fairly easy now. Will haul her to Solomons later today and will report back about the heat issue.

Greasing up the rollers and springs in the hitch actuator did the trick...except it makes backing up more difficult. Hubs were warm, but not nearly as warm at they were running to/from Annapolis to support WAF. The acutator collapses very easily, and backing up really puts a strain on the truck. Makes the diesel whine and roar like she is in a tractor pull. Next addition is a back-up solenoid.

 

[Porkchunker]

If the rest of the parts are in similar shape, you might want to purchase an entire actuator, rather than just the 1 or 2 parts you need. I found that the prices of the individual parts quickly became more expensive than a complete set. If I remember correctly, just the master cylinder is ~$65, while the whole actuator was $110.

-- Tom

If the rollers and springs are not in good shape and can't be greased up to make them run slicker than snot, Tom's recommendation is a good one. If the actuator doesn't move back and forth easily under the load of the boat, you'll be disappointed with the braking power, and it may not uncompress completely, causing excessive heat on the pads.

 

[Timbo]

BTT - For Greybeard

 

[Megabyte]

BTT - For Greybeard

Good man!

 

[jdbic]

What does BTT mean?

 

[Megabyte]

What does BTT mean?

BTT = "Back To the Top"

 

[jdbic]

oooh kaaa, instead of bump.
Just so happens I was thinking of this thread, I want to do this. My brakes don't work, but for the drive to the ramp at a slow speed the truck can handle it. But I want to trailer the boat on the Big Road. Brakes are a must!