Easy hydraulic steering bleeding

[DaleH]

FYI, I made up this 'tool' to allow easy bleeding of Seastar hydraulic systems. It is just made from a 3' section of clear vinyl tubing and an in-line valve like you use to add an ice maker line for water into an existing waterline. I loaned this tool out ... and it never came back , so I don't have the valve model info, but make sure to get one that has a shut-off, as we'll use that end of the valve to 'vent' or bleed out the air.

In use, it is simple. Attach tubing to each bleeder tube, IF your steering system has the bleeder Ts equipped. Some installs 'go on the cheap' and just use bleed screws. They work, but waste lots of expen$ive fluid in the process.

Once attached, open BOTH bleed fittings and turn the wheel round and round until large air bubble are at, under, or near the in-line valve. Close one or the other bleed fitting and turn wheel to force the bubble to the valve ... open it to vent out the air ... and presto ... that bubble, or most of it is gone. Repeat ....

Cost me < $10 in parts from a good hardware store.

 

[channel_surfer]

I thought the sea star systems were self bleeding? Just had to turn from lock to lock a few times?

 

[DaleH]

I thought the sea star systems were self bleeding? Just had to turn from lock to lock a few times?

Unless that's a new(er) feature ... no they're not, that I am aware of anyway. At least the older ones aren't.

And yet, OB trim/tilt units are self-bleeding ... but wonder if that is more because the reservoir and piston travel is more vertical ... :?: ?

 

[Robert Cibran]

Dale,

When I took delivery of my 2006 2300 CCDV inside the parker pouch was that exact same tool as what you have described for sea star bleeding and repleneshing fluid.

Robert

 

[J.A. Veil]

Dale -

Thanks for the tip. I can see how that would make things easier.

 

[Megabyte]

I've noticed an anomaly with my steering lately that only manifests itself occasionally (and it always does it when I can't troubleshoot it).

Occasionally I'll be out and on plane and the steering 'drifts'... I'll be going towards an ATON in a straight line, and need to constantly correct my steering to the right is short increments to correct drift.

If I need to make a course correction, I have to give the wheel an extra 'bump' to the right to get the steering to respond. If I correct slowly (like normal), the wheel will continue to turn to the right without engaging the steering.

It doesn't do it all the time, only occasionally, and it just started this year.
I would think that if it needed to be bled, the problem would be there all the time.

Ideas?

 

[DaleH]

If I correct slowly (like normal), the wheel will continue to turn to the right without engaging the steering.

I'd say low on fluid. I'd check BOTH helms. Maybe J Veil can send you the lengthy email I had sent him on refilling ... or if I find it in my work outbox, I'll repost the info here.

 

[Megabyte]

I'd say low on fluid.

Ordinarilly I would agree, but this spring as I drove the boat home from winter storage (and service) in Deale, by helm was actually leaking fluid... that I believe was caused by overfilling.

It continued to leak for the next 3 or 4 trips, but stopped... so I figured it was no longer 'overfull'.

 

[DaleH]

I'd say low on fluid.

Ordinarilly I would agree, but this spring as I drove the boat home from winter storage (and service) in Deale, by helm was actually leaking fluid... that I believe was caused by overfilling.

I'd still check the 2nd helm. And, did you put in a SEALED cap in one location and the VENT cap in the other? The vent cap goes onto the helm which is higher in elevation plane than the other.

My 2nd choice would be there's a faulty check valve, as they both should close, which keeps the helm straight, until the power of the pump 'opens' the one needed to cycle the fluid in the direction desired.

Also, what happens if you make the course correction from the 'other' helm?

 

[Megabyte]

Getting ready to leave for a weekend at the beach, so I'll try to answer your questions when I return.

Sticking check valve... Hmmmmm...

 

[Fishinfireman]

My helm started doing the same thing and it turned out to be the check valves in the helm pump. It was an easy fix and I didn't lose much fluid when I removed the check valves for cleaning. The big slot headed screws on either side of the helm pump (behind the dash) house the check ball and spring. Just take them out one at a time, clean and replace. I used a q-tip to clean the seat. It was a little tricky to get the ball to stay in the seat while you reassemble. If the ball falls down you cannot seat the housing all the way back in. Just fish the ball out with a magnet and start over. I would imagine a dab of grease on the ball would help but I was able to get it right after 2 or 3 tries with out the grease.

Before I cleaned the check valves my boat would veer to the left and if I just turned the wheel as I normally would to correct, the wheel would just keep going round and round. If I jerked the wheel hard to the right it would seat the valve temporarily and work good for a while.

 

[Megabyte]

Before I cleaned the check valves my boat would veer to the left and if I just turned the wheel as I normally would to correct, the wheel would just keep going round and round. If I jerked the wheel hard to the right it would seat the valve temporarily and work good for a while.

You have described my condition perfectly. Thanks!!