Sow&Pigs":ffo9jrjt said:
Do any of you guys out there have a teak deck?
We must talk ... so feel free to PM me, so I can give you a toll free number to call me ...
TEAK DECKS:
I 'was' going to add a handlaid deck this Spring of IPE, not teak. It is 1/2 or so less than teak in cost and when varnished you cannot tell the difference. I was going to put black polysulfide between the strips. I made up 1/2-scale plans where I not only did the deck, but I inlaid a huge 3' by 3' compass cardinal in the center of the cockpit with the name
'Parker" in-laid in a piece by a laser engraver smack dab in the middle circle.
Cost to do so by myself would only have been around ~$600 to do myself (for wood only), but then I'd need poly goop, tons of acetone (as EACH pieces needs to be bathed and rinsed by acetone before adhering), and you'd also needs tons of rages, gloves, mixing tools, syringes, bolts, and on and on. PLUS TIME! Time to install as a DIY'r was the biggest drawback to me. Total cost DIY would be < $1K … hey, I just gave you that much for your kicker package, so you’re good to go
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I finally decided NOT to put in a teak deck due to maintenance concerns and the fact I now just want to USE my boat … as I've done enough teak work with 43 pieces on her already, link to MISS TEAK, click
here. All my exterior pieces have 3-coats of Raka epoxy under them and then 3-6 overlays of gloss varnish, so every other year I just need to buff off the gloss with a scothbrite pad and then apply a few gloss coats. While there are special varnishes that combine anti-skid properties with UV protection, but as others said ... this will still be a YEARLY maintenance proposition for you with a teak deck. I may add teak washboard coverings though
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FYI - when you see these large offshore battlewagons with teak decks, most teak decks are screwed down (many bung plugs) as one needs to use a MUCH thicker teak piece than you can use when simple epoxying down a real teak deck. Those decks are sealed underneath with epoxy and then polysulfide between the pieces. (Little known boat builder’s trivia … the BOTTOM of the groove between the teak pieces are NOT sealed, so the sealant can only be pulled in once direction, side-to-side, as the deck expands and contracts when exposed to the elements. If adhered to the bottom of the groove too, then the sealant might stick to the bottom and pull away from the side(s), thus causing a leak.
These decks are typically sealed with anti-skid varnish, oil, or are left bare. Bare decks are washed AGAINST the grain and rinsed with saltwater EVERY day of use, and then washed once or twice per season with a mild bleach solution. And they need to install THICK deck pieces as to refresh the deck EVERY season to make it look 'new', so it is sanded down many thousands of an inch. The biggest thing to remember here is that the boat’s owner doesn’t do the install, daily cleaning, or annual maintenance – SOMEONE else does - he just pays the bill
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Also, to correct one poster, yes you can epoxy a teak deck down to any frp cockpit floor without any permanent screw holes being left in the floor, but ... and here's the caveat. Screws are used to set the pieces, usually every 12 to 16" or so, and ALL screw holes must be filled with 2 epoxy sets; one thin (to penetrate) and the other thickened (to seal). These decks don't last as long as secrewed decks as you'll sand through it faster to refresh them.
FLEXI-TEAK:
Just my opinion, but I have spent
considerable time researching this entire topic and options. Yes,
a flexi-teak or other teak will look as good in the future as the day it went down and that is
… it will still look like a FAKE teak deck :shock: !
Hehe
hehe
!
SUMMARY:
I'd consider just putting down a new non-skid deck of 2-part polyurethane (e.g., Awl Grip II) or gelcoat with Awl Grip polymycuric (sp?) non-compressable grit pieces rolled in it. I would not use DuraBak and some have had install issues with it and I think the jury is still out on what it will look like and clean up with over time.
Whew ... I'm done ...
