Fuel tank corrosion

[AndyHeck]

Looking to purchase a 2007 2320. This pic was sent to me from the guy who did the survey. What are your guys opinions on this? Major issue? Common occurrence? Replace the tank etc

 

[1801Steve]

That is major corrosion on the top of the tank. No way of knowing what the bottom looks like.

But the tank is 17 years old. That is typically the expected life in salt water. The corrosion in your photo says that salt water has been leaking down onto the top of the tank. That water had to go somewhere....

So I would plan to replace that tank in the near future.

 

[tomc585]

Just figure that into the cost of the boat. It will need replacement.....eventually.

 

[Mpellet]

Looking to purchase a 2007 2320. This pic was sent to me from the guy who did the survey. What are your guys opinions on this? Major issue? Common occurrence? Replace the tank etc

Tank looks bad IMO. There has been a lot of water leaking onto that tank for a while. I can’t imagine there is anyway that the rest of that tank is not sitting in soaked foam. If you look at the sending unit there is a lot of corrosion around it, even if the rest of that fuel tank is currently not leaking, you’ve almost certainly got corrosion going on under the gasket for the fuel sending unit. I would bet $$ that when that tank is FULL and gas is pushing up around that gasket, the tank leaks . If it’s not leaking it will be soon.

I would bet $$, when this tank is full there is a noticeable gasoline smell.

A picture only provides limited information and all I am doing is offering an opinion via the internet so take that for what it’s worth, with that being said if you buy this boat and it may otherwise be a nice boat, I would factor in approximately $7000 if you plan on paying a professional to replace that fuel tank.

Now for the possible not so bad, if the tank is just leaking around the sending unit, the gasket can be replaced and it MIGHT stop the leak if there is one. The other thing that needs to happen is that inspection port hatch that the picture was taken through needs to be replaced ASAP.

 

[warthog5]

What everyone else said.

 

[Efx]

I’m replacing mine soon. Same issue. Most boaters don’t know that you need to rinse the top of tanks occasionally and make sure they are dry.

 

[Billyjack20]

before installation paint on coal tar apoxy whole tank top most important

 

[warthog5]

Most boaters don’t know that you need to rinse the top of tanks occasionally and make sure they are dry.

Turning a hose on can in there can be very detrimental.... Water will stand on top of the foam.....where you can't get to it.....Then eventuallly seep into the foam.....This is not a good idea.

 

[Efx]

I’ve been rinsing tanks for decades on trailer boats. Rinse lightly, pop off all access plates, let any and ALL water evaporate. Keep boat tilted and let all water drain when boat is on trailer. This process keeps any salt accumulation to be removed, which in itself harbors moisture. I prefer to know what’s going on with tank surfaces than just coating and sealing them and crossing fingers.

 

[jpg1969]

Just a heads up as I replaced a tank in my Parker this winter. Warthog is correct that you should really be careful about any rinsing of the tank. It's a sealed compartment with no way for the water to exit. I never rinsed, was religious about resealing the access plates and still had about 20 gallon of water in there after 20 years including wet foam surrounding the sides and bottom.

 

[Efx]

My tank compartment drains directly into the small bilge area and then straight out the back. Stay nice and dry.

 

[warthog5]

My tank compartment drains directly into the small bilge area and then straight out the back. Stay nice and dry.

Good....Glad that works for you......BUT it is NOT the normal setup.

Bare alum needs air to protect itself.....Or it needs to be coated.....
The lack of air in a saturated wet environment is what causes corrosion.....IE: submerged in water soaked foam for years.

 

[Efx]

Is there is list of which Parker’s are encapsulated in closed cell foam versus which ones are not? That’s probably the best information to have. Details matter. My Parker fuel tank is not encapsulated entirely in foam and does drain directly to the bilge. It’s also is not coated but is original ( I have the build label). My mako is fully encapsulated and is foamed in. My Grady which has dual tanks is a different design and actually has an air space around all sides of both tanks with a bulkhead between and does have a bypass drain to the bilge. I guess there are many options and since the op is replacing a tank, why not eliminate the old way of foaming the tank in? I think the op humidity levels, salt air density and maintenance frequency would all play into this. From the original photo, it looks like salt water is accumulating there. There is no way to entirely seal the space, so why not maintain a new tank that is secured with air space around it and rise it with fresh water occasionally? I just think this is a better setup and should be able to be achieved with a new install. The old install from 2007, which is not that old looks to be a poor design. Also I bet o ring was never changed on that deck plate.

 

[baker]

I’ve been rinsing tanks for decades on trailer boats. Rinse lightly, pop off all access plates, let any and ALL water evaporate. Keep boat tilted and let all water drain when boat is on trailer. This process keeps any salt accumulation to be removed, which in itself harbors moisture. I prefer to know what’s going on with tank surfaces than just coating and sealing them and crossing fingers.

If your replacing the tank, it should be coated with coal tar epoxy. for about $150

 

[GZB]

Just went through tank replacement on my 23 (2000 model). I suggest you ask the surveyor if he smelled fuel. If so, there is a leak in the tank and/or vent/fuel hose lines or both. (no smell does no necessarily mean no leak). My tank did not look as bad as your photo but still had a significant leak. And ditto what everyone above is saying about the pie plate/hatch cover. You can tell by that photo it has been leaking long time. Costs noted above are in line with my costs to replace my tank (this year).

 

[sailmaster]

Turning a hose on can in there can be very detrimental.... Water will stand on top of the foam.....where you can't get to it.....Then eventuallly seep into the foam.....This is not a good idea.

way back when I saw a photo on this site of the aft hatch with two Nico Fico solar vents. Great Idea
Water always gets in getting it out is the problem

 

[jimjybe]

Just had a tank made for my 98' it looks good but has pinholes in the bottom. 15-20 years seems to be the normal tank life expectancy so factor that in. This photo looks like electrolysis to me but I also see the ground wires??? The tank builder suggested adding a second ground via an anode in the floor of the bilge. This tank may have life left in it but it will have to be cleaned, tested, properly grounded and sealed from Intrusion. FYI, the tank for 2520 was $2100.00 just for the tank in 3/8" aluminum. Our boat was 12 years old when we purchased it so I knew we'd be replacing the tank at some point.

 

[warthog5]

$2100.00 just for the tank in 3/8" aluminum

I bet thats a typo....No One builds a tank 3/8in thick.....I bet you ment 3/16?

 

[Mpellet]

I bet thats a typo....No One builds a tank 3/8in thick.....I bet you ment 3/16?

The 3/8 tank comes with an engine bracket prerigged for a 20HP, 4 rod holders. Makes a decent flats boat when not being used to hold gasoline.

 

[nicknotsebastian]

Is there is list of which Parker’s are encapsulated in closed cell foam versus which ones are not?

I’d be very curious about this too. If / what different methods were used for different models over the years. Anything out there like this or is it a email parker your year and model etc ?