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Hannibal

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Location
Waldorf, MD
Hi all. Thanks to the lovely marine mechanic who failed to produce AGAIN, I unfortunately missed my second striper season in a row ............

It goes without saying that I no longer will be using him and we've settled up and have no need to do business with him again. (Did find a new place though which I am extremely happy about. Very excited to do some business with them).

Anyhow, I am jotting down my "to do's" in preperation of the spring season. I own a 1991 2110 W/A which I don't ever have much luck finding information on. As such, I don't have many pictures to look at to serve as ideas on what I want to do with mine. That being said, I have some general things that need to be done and I could use some input from those who know (I am still very green with this).

1. The bottom of my boat is currently painted black. Some parts are starting to fade and in general, the finish isn't as uniform as I'd like it to be. I've considered both repainting it and stripping it down to to gel coat. I was given a quote of approx. $600 to have the bottom soda blasted. This involved them doing it at their yard where they'd have to offload my boat. They stated this would leave me with a clean bottom but the gelcoat wouldn't be "finish" smooth and would require (most likely) a good bit of wet sanding. I haven't been given a quote for that aspect. Does anyone have experience with this who could give me an idea of cost and how nice an end product I should end up with?

2. The two windows in my cuddy are in "so-so" condition. The screens are discolored and somewhat warped due to age. The framing itself is a bit worn as well. I'd like to remove them, replace the screen and repaint the framing. Is this something easily done? I've not yet looked hard at the windows but are they something that can easily been removed and disassembled? It is my understanding that replacing them isn't cheap so I rather use some elbow grease rather than dish out a bunch of $$$ on a 20+ year old boat. Any input would be appreciated.

3. On the "windshield" - in each corner, there is a window (triangle in shape) that open up to allow air to pass through. They are held open with a latch mechanism (it's impossible to explain - I would need to take a picture). It's a very basic setup though. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement for this latch? One is broken and while still functional - it's still bothering me.

4. My switch panel is very outdated (original with the boat). Last season, I finally made some heads and tails of the wiring behind it but redoing it all is another VERY large project at some point. However, I did cut out some of the mess and properly route the wiring to the switch panel. Now, each switch is specific to a FUNCTIONING task. However, I currently have them labled with press on labels from a lable maker. It works - but it doesn't look quality. Quite honestly, it looks cheap but it is highly functional over the previous setup. Can anyone recommend a better approach? I assume I could just buy a new panel? Is there anything short of that? Have others done something different in terms of lableing their switches? I'd like some ideas.

Thanks in advance. These past few days of 60-degree weather have me dreaming about pending spring days so I am trying to knock some things out while she's under wraps in the driveway.

Will
 
IMO if you want to take the bottom back to clean gelcoat, sanding is the only way. I had the bottom of my old 25' Grady soda blasted and while it didn't chew up the gelcoat nearly as bad as I've seen on boats that were sand blasted, it would still have been a ton of work to get it smooth.
 
If the boat will live on a trailer and you don't want to go to the expense of wet sanding, you could repaint the bottom with a 'hard' bottom paint like sailboats use.
Wouldn't look as pretty as a wet sanded 'clean' bottom, but would be less expensive.

The 2110 model is relatively rare as it has not been produced for some time.
However, if you want ideas... look to the 2310 and 2510's. The basics are the same. Only the proportions are different.

The cuddy windows are replaceable, and are a fairly simple job so long as a previous owner didn't seal them with 5200.
Call the factory with your HIN and they can tell you who sourced those windows back when your boat was built.
Chances are they are still available.

While you are talking to the factory, also ask about the windshield latches.
Again, they are probably a standard part.

As for the switch panel, the simplest thing to do is to have a new one made with updated switches and engraved in place of the stick-on labels.
There is (or was) a vendor on ClassicMako who has done beautiful work for the folks on that forum, and his prices seem reasonable.
You might be able to find him and photos of his work on ClassicMako.com
I don't recall the name of the company, but I'll bet GW204 knows. :wink:

Good luck!
 
1. Painted bottom:
See this post here: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11349
You need to decide if you will trailer only and then if so, HOW LONG will the boat likely ‘sit’ in the water. Anything over a day or so then I would just add a hard epoxy color to make the hull look nice. You can remove ALL traces of bottom paint, as I’ve said in that link above, but it will cost you hundreds in labor, materials, and disposal fees and cost YOU > 100-hours of labor, to do it yourself. Having someone soda blast it first adds ~ $600.

But to remove ALL traces of paint, takes HOURs of grungy, painful, work (wearing a NISOH repirator and full suit) of wet sanding with various grit papers and pneumatic tools, as electric ones don’t fair so well with wet sanding ;) , don’t ya’ know … Soda blasting by itself will leave the hull splotchy and discolored … DO NOT rely on their belief that the hull will be the white or beige as it came from the factory. If you could live with that rough a finish, soda blast is only $600 or so, but I bet you won't be happy with just a s-blasted finish.

2. Windows:
Frames: Sounds like the frames have discolored from UV exposure. If you paint, you’ll continue to paint. I think I’d try wet-sanding first with 400 to 600 or higher wet paper first, to see if you could remove the oxidized layer.

Screens: Do a search for the louvered replacement screens by Beckson, that would be a GREAT upgrade and fix the screen issue.

3. Windshield:
The latch for the vent window should be a Dealer-stocked item. If an older window, find out who made it. Then contact the manufacturer directly.

4. Switch Panel:
No limit here, just what you want to spend. There are sites I hope someone mentions, as I forget his name, but he’ll make you up custom panels where the switch name is embossed or cut into the new panel. When I bought my Parker, I made up custom switch panels myself, from Blue Seas panels, even where the switch ID was backlit from behind so you can read them at night :) .
 
Scott Cambra
http://www.vectorled.com

He does great work, but it's too pricey for me (I'm not saying it's not worth it). I cut my own and get a local sign shop to do the engraving before I install the gauges and switches and wire everything up.

IMG_0513.jpg
 
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